A train attendant ready to board one of the new Chinese-built Cuban long-distance trains. |
Experience the real Cuba by train
Cuba is a fantastic country, with very friendly and hospitable people. Havana has to be one of the most vibrant cities worldwide. It's a safe place to visit, too, unless you fall down one of the many potholes in the poorly-maintained streets! Cuba's rail network runs the length of the island linking the main cities and towns and it's an interesting way to get around, especially if you want to travel with Cubans the way Cubans do, not in a tourist bus. Don't expect western standards, take your own toilet paper and allow for the odd breakdown - all part of the experience. However, brand-new Chinese-built cars entered service in 2019 on all main routes across the island, with air-conditioning and cafeteria, fewer stops, faster journeys, increased frequency. If you manage to get a ticket, taking the train across Cuba is much better than taking a cramped long-distance Viazul bus or worse, a flight.
Havana - Santa Clara - Camagüey - Santiago de Cuba. Holguin, Bayamo, Guantanamo
- A new dawn for train travel in Cuba?
- Train times & dates of running
Hershey Railway: Havana - Hershey - Matanzas
Hotels in Havana - some classic places to stay
Useful country information
The Havana - Santiago main line
In July 2019 a series of brand-new Chinese-built cars entered service, with air-conditioned seating, non-air-con seating and a cafeteria car. Speed and frequency was increased, new fares and new booking arrangements introduced, with the booking horizon extended from 5 days to 30. More new cars were delivered in 2020 and 2021. If you have any more information or photos that might help other travellers or keep this page updated, please email me! See Cuba railways route map.
Timetable eastbound 2024
Timetable westbound 2024
Timetable notes
A = NEW CHINESE-BUILT TRAIN, Runs every 4 days. 1st class air-conditioned seats, 2nd class non-air-con seats, cafeteria car.
B = Runs every 4 days, see the dates below. Primera class seats only. Older cars. Reported as temporarily cancelled since January 2023 due to shortages.
C = Runs every 3 days, see the dates below. Primera class seats only. older cars. Reported as temporarily cancelled since January 2023 due to shortages.
* Trains depart from the nearby Havana Le Coubre station whilst renovation at Havana Estación Central continues.
** For Moron, travel to Ciego de Avila & change for the local line to Moron. There are several daily trains Ciego to Moron & back.
? = Guesstimated time. ??:?? = intermediate stop time not known.
The shortage of fuel in Cuba often affects buses & local trains, but these mainline trains have priority. There are no couchettes or sleeping-cars in Cuba, only seats cars. Fares for foreigners are shown here. See Cuba railway route map.
Can you help keep this page updated? If you find times have changed from those shown here, a photo of the departure notices would be much appreciated.
On what dates do these trains run?
A notice at each station tells you what dates each train runs. When first introduced in July 2019, these new trains ran every 2 or 3 days, but in September 2019 a 'temporary' (which in Cuba means indefinite) nationwide fuel shortage means that these trains were reduced to running every 4 days. This was still the case when these trains resumed after the pandemic in November 2021 and it's still the case in 2024.
Train departure dates are as follows, the dates below allow you to work out later departure dates going forward.
Tip: Use www.timeanddate.com/date/duration.html to count the number of days between one of the 'reference point' dates shown below and the date you want to travel (leave the 'Include end date in calculation' box un-ticked). If the train you want runs every 4 days, then if the number of days between the reference date and your travel date is divisible by 4, the train runs. Simple, really!
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Train 1 ran from Havana to Santiago on 2 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 2 ran from Santiago to Havana on 4 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 3 ran from Havana to Guantanamo on 1 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 4 ran from Guantanamo to Havana on 3 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 5 ran from Havana to Holguin on 3 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 6 ran from Holguin to Havana on 1 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 7 ran from Havana to Bayamo on 4 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 8 ran from Bayamo to Havana on 2 January 2024 and runs every 4 days.
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Train 101 dates not known.
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Train 102 dates not known.
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If you go to Cuba & can take a photo of the latest departure dates from Havana or any other station, please email me!
Havana Estación Central
Havana Estación Central closed for renovation in June 2015, originally only until summer 2018, but the work overran and continues into 2023. One platform has now reopened and from 13 July 2022, national trains arriving in Havana arrive at Havana Estación Central, but until further notice departures still leave from Le Coubre station just around the corner. Map of Havana showing stations
How much does it cost?
Foreigners pay the same cheap fares as Cubans, in pesos. Feedback appreciated.
Children aged 0 to 4 travel free, children aged 5 to 11 travel at half fare, children aged 12 and over pay full fare.
Tickets can be cancelled & refunded without penalty until 24h before departure. A 10% fee is deducted if cancelled 24h or less before departure, rising to 25% from 1 hour after departure until 15 days after departure. After that, tickets cannot be refunded.
Note: It remains to be seen if classes will be called primera especial and primera or 1st (primera) and 2nd (segunda). Both versions are being used at present!
How to buy tickets
There is no online booking, you must buy in person. Buying tickets is a challenge, remember to bring your passport.
Since July 2019 tickets are sold by State-owned travel agency Viajero which has offices all over Cuba, including at or near most major rail stations.
Booking for the new Chinese-built trains opens 30 days before departure, and you can book both an outward and a return journey from the station you're at. Until 2019 booking only opened 5 days ahead (it's still 5 days ahead for other trains) and you could only book your return journey at your destination when you got there.
The trains always leave fully-booked, but a number of seats on each train may be set aside for foreigners, so you may well find tickets available even when seats are sold out for locals. A waiting list is kept even for trains that are full - several correspondents have reported that they got places on the train easily enough even after being waitlisted.
In Havana, look for a Viajero office. However, it's reported that the ticket office at Le Coubre station may only sell last-minute tickets on the day of travel, if you want to book tickets in advance you should use one of the other Viajero offices around the city. Feedback would be appreciated.
Traveller's report, early 2024: "I took the train from Havana to Guantánamo on 5 January, a 19 hour journey. I went to the Viajero office at La Coubre train station the day before, but the office was closed. I tried the Viajero office at the Viazul bus station, but they don't sell train tickets. Next morning I went to La Coubre during opening hours and heard that the train was full. I talked to the man at the door and he told me to get in line for the waiting list. He said he could get me on the train for 2500 pesos. I had to leave proof of identity and show up 2 hours in advance. The train eventually left 2 hours late. I travelled in second class, a lady passed by to sell sandwiches with mortadella and there were taps to refill your water bottle at the end of the carriage. You can also buy snacks through the window from the vendors at every train station (popsicles and peanut bars). The seats had lots of leg space, so I had a surprisingly good night's sleep."
You must confirm your ticket 1 hour before departure
You must arrive at the station at least 1 hour before the train leaves, to have your ID checked and your ticket stamped at the confirmation counter. This allows people on the standby list to be given tickets when there's a no-show. The ticket confirmation counter usually opens 2 hours before the train leaves.
Luggage limits
You can take 1 small item and 2 larger bags, not exceeding 35Kg in total (children under 12 get half this allowance). The total dimensions of any bag (length + width + height) must not exceed 160cm. You take your bags with you onto the train and place them on the racks above or near your seat. You may not bring alcohol or sharp items on board.
What are the trains like?
New Chinese-built trains (trains 1-8)
Brand new trains built in China went into service on Cuba's premier train routes in July 2019, with more due to be delivered in 2020. Each train consists of 12 cars, made up of a generator car, 7 x 2nd class cars with opening windows & ceiling fans and 4 air-conditioned 1st class cars, one of which contains a cafeteria. Note that the two classes are sometimes called primera & primera especial and sometimes called segunda & primera, which can be confusing!
The seats are arranged 2+2 across the car width in both classes, they all recline and can be rotated to face the direction of travel. There are drop-down seat-back tables and individual reading lights. Legroom is the same in both classes as all cars have 72 seats, the real difference between classes is that 1st class is air-conditioned with red leather seats and 2nd class isn't air-con and has blue fabric seats and opening windows. There is an audio system and TV screens in 1st class, but only audio in 2nd class. Each car has two toilets and an attendant's room, plus a cold water drinking fountain. The trains are all non-smoking, and bringing alcohol or sharp objects such as knives is not permitted. This first batch of new cars do not have at-seat power sockets, but later deliveries may have.
A refreshment package costing 20 CUP is optional, can be bought when you buy your ticket or can be bought on board. For luggage limits, see above.
A request: If you get any photos of these new trains in service, including scenery, the refreshment package, or cafeteria car, please get in touch!
Other express trains
Other trains consist of older cars, in many cases bought second-hand from Germany, Mexico or Japan. In spite of travelling overnight, there are no sleeping-cars or sleeping accommodation of any kind - the trains just have reclining leatherette seats. These trains are an experience - don't expect them to be the cleanest or best maintained trains you will see! These older cars will eventually be replaced as more Chinese-built cars are delivered.
Havana - Cienfuegos
Note D = Normally runs every 3 days, primera class seats only, but CANCELLED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.
Update 2024: Trains 73 & 74 were reported as cancelled until further notice in June 2018, and are not currently running.
Map of Havana showing stations
Havana - Pinar del Rio
Note G: Runs every 3rd day. Ran from Havana on 11 September 2019 then every 3 days. Ran from Pinar to Havana on 10 September 2019 then every 3 days.
This train uses four blue Mexican carriages with buffet car released by the new Chinese cars on the mainline trains. It has been using Havana 19 de Noviembre station, also known as Tulipan, but check as it may move back to Havana Estación Central. Map of Havana showing stations.
Update 2024: This train was suspended in June 2018, but resumed running in September 2019. It was reported as temporarily cancelled again in 2023 due to shortages, so check locally.
Buy tickets at the station as shown above. Tickets can be bought from 3 days before departure date until the day before, or on the day of travel within 2h of departure.
The Hershey Railway
Havana Casablanca station - Hershey - Matanzas
An electric railcar runs on a railway originally built by the Hershey Corporation (the chocolate company) from Havana's Casablanca station, across the harbour from Havana itself, to Hershey and Matanzas, see map of Havana showing Casablanca station. The timetable changes every so often, so always double-check train times locally. See the Hershey Railways photos below.
To reach Havana Casablanca station, take the frequent ferry across the harbour from the foot of Santa Clara Street in Havana old town. The ferry runs every 20 minutes, only costs a peso or so, and gives great views of the bay - although it can be interrupted in bad weather. There's an airport-style security check for the ferry, implemented after a ferry was hijacked and sailed to Miami in 2003, and items such as razor blades are not allowed, so be prepared and allow plenty of time. Once on the other side, Casablanca station is immediately west of the ferry dock, looking more like a tram stop than a conventional station, but just follow the overhead electric wires along the street. Buy tickets on the train.
In Matanzas, the Hershey railway station is about 2 km from Matanzas mainline station. Buy tickets on the train.
Fare: All passengers should pay in local pesos. Havana to Hershey is 1.40 pesos, Havana to Matanzas is 2.80 pesos. Tickets go on sale 1 hour before departure.
Update 2024: Service suspended, apart from Hershey-Jaruco. The line sustained hurricane damage in late 2017, with extensive damage to the overhead electric wires. After the hurricane only the section between Hershey & Matanzas continued running, in 2023 it was reported only the Hershey-Jaruco section is working, with 7 trains per day.
Take a good guidebook to get the most from a trip to Cuba. For independent travellers I'd recommend either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, both guidebooks provide an excellent level of practical information and historical and cultural background. Lonely Planet Cuba - Rough Guide to Cuba
Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk
Hotels in Havana & Cuba
There's no shortage of historic hotels in Havana, many with movie star or Hemingway connections.
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The oldest hotel in Havana is the venerable Hotel Inglaterra, very central near the Capitolio and walking distance from Old Havana. I've stayed here myself.
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The most celebrated hotel, even today, is the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, once the haunt of Sinatra and Ava Gardner, although it's quite a hike from the Capitolio in central Havana, and further still from Old Havana.
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The Hotel Sevilla is also a good choice, not far from the Inglaterra and once Al Capone's favourite.
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Finally, there's the comfortable Hotel Ambos Mundos, located right within Old Havana, where Hemingway's room can still be seen, complete with typewriter, an excellent choice.
Flights to Cuba
Overland travel by train & bus around Cuba is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground! But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach Cuba in the first place. For flights to Havana, compare airlines at Skyscanner.net.
Travel insurance & other tips
Always take out travel insurance
Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.
www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.
Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I get a small commission to help support this site.
Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from buy from Amazon.com.