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Cusco to Puno train. Courtesy Discoverbyrail.com |
Taking the train in Peru
Peru has several train services of interest to visitors, including the famous train to Machu Picchu where a confusing array of trains run by two different operators compete to take you to the Inca ruin from various different starting points in or outside Cusco - this page explains the options.
There are two separate networks in Peru, the southern network which includes Cusco to Machu Picchu & Cusco to Puno on Lake Titicaca and the northern network which links Lima with Huancayo.
Cusco to Machu Picchu for the Inca
ruins.
Lima to Huancayao & Huancavelica
Useful country information
Cusco to Machu Picchu
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Take the train to Machu Picchu. Regular train slink Cusco and Ollantaytambo with the famous Inca city of Machu Picchu... Photo courtesy of Tim Roberts |
Cusco is the base city for visiting the famous Inca ruins at Machu Picchu and it's where most visitors stay. It takes several days to hike up the Sacred Valley on foot on the Inca Trail, so most tourists take a train from Cusco to Machu Picchu on the historic 3' gauge Santa Ana Railway.
There are two competing train companies:
Both offer a range of trains & classes to suit varying budgets:
PeruRail is the bigger company, part of Belmond who run the Venice Simplon Orient Express. PeruRail took over operation of this network from the Peruvian railway company ENAFER in 1999.
Inca Rail is the smaller operator, also fine to use.
Trains to Machu Picchu leave from 4 possible locations:
Cusco San Pedro station in downtown Cusco - recommended.
Poroy, 13 km (8 miles) outside Cusco.
Urubamba, 53 km (33 miles) from Cusco.
Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley itself, 89 km (56 miles) from Cusco. Inca Rail sell a Cusco-Machu Picchu bimodal service combining a bus transfer from Cusco with a train from Ollantaytambo.
Option 1, by local train from Cusco
This is only an option if you're a Peruvian national. The local is a subsidised daily service for Peruvians, leaving from Cusco's San Pedro station in downtown Cusco. For the record, here are the times of the Local:
Cusco San Pedro depart at 07:02, Ollantaytambo 09:50, Machu Picchu arrive 11:49.
Machu Picchu depart 18:30, Ollantaytambo 20:17, Cuzco San Pedro arrive 23:13.
Option 2, by tourist train from Cusco
This is the best option, a top tip you won't hear from the train operators or tourist websites, so listen up!
From 2009 until 2019, the only train to Machu Picchu leaving from Cusco's original downtown San Pedro station was the Local for Peruvian nationals which tourists can't use. Tourist trains started from Poroy, an inconvenient 20-minute 13 km (8 mile) bus or taxi ride outside Cusco. This meant missing out on a remarkable section of railway between Cusco & Poroy where the train climbs up the mountainside out of Cusco using a series of five switchbacks, known locally as El Zig-Zag.
Inca Rail resumed running from Cusco San Pedro station in May 2019 and two PeruRail trains were extended to start there shortly afterwards. In 2023 Inca Rail is no longer serving Cusco San Pedro, but those two PeruRail trains still do, so are now the best trains to take. By leaving directly from Cusco San Pedro Station, you can (a) leave conveniently from downtown Cusco avoiding an 8-mile bus or taxi ride and (b) enjoy the whole historic original railway experience from downtown Cusco to Machu Picchu, including the scenic ascent of El Zig-Zag.
True, the train takes an hour from Cusco to Poroy, a bus or taxi takes 20 minutes, but as you'd have to allow for a safe margin between taxi & train at Poroy in practice there's little real time lost taking the train all the way and you're here for the experience after all. Both trains offer Expedition & Vistadome accommodation:
Expedition is the budget option, from around $60 each way per person. It has basic but reasonably comfortable seating with panoramic windows and a buffet car where you can buy non-alcoholic drinks and snacks. In many ways it's not really that different from the Vistadome. See the Expedition photo below.
Vistadome is the mid-range option, costing around $100 per person including complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your seat. It's a series of diesel railcars with panoramic windows as its name suggests, see the Vistadome photos below.
You can buy tickets at www.bookaway.com.
Important: In the rainy season from January to April, Perurail operate a reduced service and Inca Rail trains to/from Cusco San Pedro & Poroy do not operate.
Poroy to Machu Picchu is 86 km (54 miles). Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu is 38 km (24 miles).
Poroy is 3486 metres above sea level, Ollantaytambo 2600m, Machu Picchu 2350m.
Ascending El Zig Zag. The train from Cusco San Pedro station to Machu Picchu is ascending the switchbacks up the escarpment out of Cuzco: It has zigged up the track in the photo and is now on a zag. You only experience this if you book one of the two daily PeruRail trains that start from Cusco San Pedro. If you book a 'Bimodal' service involving a bus from downtown Cusco to Poroy, Urubamba or Ollantaytambo, you miss out. Photo courtesy of Chris Silvester.
Option 3, by tourist train from Poroy
Some PeruRail tourist trains leave from Poroy, a local halt 13 km (8 miles) west of Cusco.
How do you get to Poroy? You'll need to take a bus or taxi from downtown Cusco to Poroy. A 3-seat taxi from Cusco to Poroy costs around 20-30 soles (£4-£6 or $6-$9) per taxi, and takes around 20 minutes. There's a local bus for 6 soles per person.
In the rainy season from January to April PeruRail operate a 'bimodal' service by bus from Cusco to Pachar station to pick up the train there, the trains don't start at Poroy during this period. So even more bus, even less train...
Which train to choose? How much does it cost? PeruRail run four different trains, aimed at different budgets:
PeruRail's Expedition (formerly the Backpacker), the budget option from around $60 each way per person, with basic but comfortable seating with panoramic windows and a buffet car where you can buy non-alcoholic drinks & snacks. It's not really that different from the Vistadome. See the Expedition photo below.
PeruRail's Vistadome, the mid-range option costing around $95 per person including complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your seat. It's a series of diesel railcars with panoramic windows as its name suggests, see the Vistadome photos below.
Belmond's Hiram Bingham. This is the super-deluxe option and the most expensive, from around $500 each way per person, including gourmet brunch on the way out and dinner on the way back, a selection of Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections & entrance to the Machu Picchu citadel plus guided tour. A real luxury experience, just a shame it starts from Poroy not Cusco San Pedro station! See the Hiram Bingham photos below.
Option 3, by tourist train from Urubamba
Urubamba is 53 km (33 miles) from Cusco, and the next best option to joining a train at Poroy. Only PeruRail operate from Urubamba.
PeruRail run one Vistadome train from Urubamba to Machu Picchu at 06:50 arriving 09:25, returning from Machu Picchu to Urubamba at 15:48 arriving 18:43. Check current times at www.perurail.com.
Option 4, by shuttle train from Ollantaytambo
If you can't get a ticket for one of the PeruRail trains starting from Cusco San Pedro, Poroy or Urubamba, don't worry, there are many shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, some run by PeruRail, others by Inca Rail. Ollantaytambo is 89 km (56 miles) from Cusco, 1h40 by taxi, so it's a longer bus or taxi ride, shorter train ride. Inca Rail offer an integrated Bimodal service by bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo then train to Machu Picchu.
PeruRail operates shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu at intervals through the day. Some of these shuttle trains are Vistadome and some the cheaper Expedition. Fares vary by date & time, but Expedition fares start at around $60, Vistadome fares at around $87. Check times and fares and book online at www.perurail.com.
Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu: 05:05, 06:10, 07:05, 07:45, 08:00, 08:29, 08:53, 09:15, 10:32, 11:52, 12:55, 13:27, 15:37, 19:04, 21:00. Journey time 1h30.
Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo: 05:35, 08:53, 10:55, 13:37, 14:55, 15:20, 15:48, 16:22, 16:43, 17:23, 18:10, 18:20, 18:45, 19:30, 20:50, 21:50. Journey time 1h30.
Inca Rail runs several trains a day, journey time around 1h30, fares from $59 each way. Check times & fares at www.incarail.com. They now offer 3 classes, Machu Picchu class (economy), Executive class and First Class.
Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu: 06:40, 07:22, 11:15, 12:36, 16:36 & 19:27,
Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo: 08:30, 10:32, 14:30, 19:00, 20:20, 21:30.
Buy entry tickets to the Inca ruins at www.machupicchu.gob.pe
These can be bought in advance online at www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in Cusco at the National Culture Institute (INC) at Avenida La Cultura 238, Condominio Huascar (in front of the Universitario Stadium).
Since July 2011, visitor numbers have been limited to 2,500 per day, about the expected number on a normal day in a busy month such as June, but less than the numbers previously visiting in the busiest peak months of July and August, so book ahead at www.machupicchu.gob.pe.
Entry tickets are now timed 06:30-12:00 or 12:00-17:30, so be sure of your entry period before booking your trains. For lunch at Machu Picchu, you can eat lunch at The Sanctuary, at around US$33 it's expensive but saves you an hour travelling to Aguas Calientes and back for lunch in the town.
Buy train tickets at www.bookaway.com
Train & bus agency www.bookaway.com sells both Inca Rail and PeruRail tickets on one site, and with no mark-up or fee as far as I can see. Tip: Choose a departure from Cusco San Pedro, the station in the city centre. Feedback on using Bookaway is always appreciated.
Or you can buy tickets for the PeruRail tourist trains from Cusco, Poroy or Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu direct from PeruRail at www.perurail.com. Train tickets can also be bought from Perurail offices at Lima Airport on level 2 between gates 13 & 14, or in Cusco at Portal de Carnes 214, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, call (084) 260809 or (084) 260792.
Tickets for the Inca Rail service from Cusco, Poroy or Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu can also be bought at www.incarail.com.
Transfer from station to the Inca ruins
The station referred to as 'Machu Picchu' is in fact located in the local town of Aguas Calientes, approximately 8 km (5 miles) from the ruined Inca city of Machu Picchu. A bus runs every 30 minutes from the station to the ruins costing US$ 24 return, payable in US$ or local Peruvian currency. To find out more about the Inca ruins, see www.peru-machu-picchu.com or www.machupicchu.org.
Or book a vacation or tour package
The easiest way to visit Machu Picchu is to book a vacation/holiday to Peru with train travel, entrance fees & hotels arranged for you. Rail travel specialists Tailor Made Rail and Railbookers offer suggested itineraries around Peru including a visit to Machu Picchu, more information here.
What's the journey like?
Two PeruRail Vistadome/Expedition trains leave from Cusco's main San Pedro station on the Avenida Sol and spend half an hour climbing a series of Switchbacks or zig-zags up the mountainside to gain height, reaching the local halt at Poroy an hour after leaving Cusco. Most other PeruRail trains start from Poroy (including the Hiram Bingham, which has always started here) and so miss this interesting section. After Poroy the train descends into the Sacred Valley and the Andean foothills, along the Urubamba river. You'll pass colourful villages and herds of llamas. Cusco to Machu Picchu is 107 km (67 miles), Poroy to Machu Picchu is 86km (54 miles). The best views are on the left hand side of the train going up to Machu Picchu and on the right hand side returning, as the train follows the river and this is the side which the river is on, with the odd Inca ruin or terrace visible as the train runs along the Sacred Valley. PeruRail won't assign seats on a particular side, but you can easily move over if there are empty seats after departure.
What are the trains like?
PeruRail Expedition trains
This is PeruRail's cheapest option and perfectly comfortable. Food & drink can be bought on board, but it's not complimentary as it is on the Vistadome. Expedition class accommodation is also available on both the direct trains from Cusco San Pedro.
PeruRail Vistadome trains
This is the mid-range option, a good choice and it's available on both the direct trains from Cusco San Pedro. The price includes complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your seat. As you can see, there are roof windows for better viewing the peaks...
Belmond's luxury Hiram Bingham
This is the luxury option, the most expensive of the trains to Machu Picchu and in a category all by itself. This luxurious train ride includes a gourmet brunch on the outward trip and dinner on the way back, a selection of Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections, Machu Picchu entrance fee and a guided tour.
The local
Not an option unless you are a Peruvian citizen. A daily subsidised train for locals between Cusco & Aquas Calientes. Local trains also run 3 times a day between Machu Picchu and Hydroelectric station (for the Machu Picchu hydroelectric power station), 40 minutes beyond Machu Picchu.
Cusco to Puno, Lake Titicaca
PeruRail also run two excellent trains between Cusco & Puno on Lake Titicaca, a scenic 385 km.
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A daytime train called the Perurail Lake Titicaca train with seats, lounge, dining-car and open-air viewing platform. An excellent way to travel, well worth a splurge of $200-$300. Runs 3 times a week as below.
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A new luxury cruise train called the Andean Explorer with private sleepers, lounge, dining-car. It operates two slightly different itineraries in each direction, Spirit of the Water, Peruvian Highlands, Spirit of the Andres and Andean Plains & Islands. This costs around $1000-$2,500 per person including private sleeper & meals.
The Andean Explorer cruise train is relatively new, it started running in May 2017. Before 2017 there was only a daytime train called the Andean Explorer - the name Andean Explorer now applies to the new luxury cruise train, the old daytime Andean Explorer is now renamed the Perurail Lake Titicaca train. Bear that in mind when looking at reviews or info from past years on the internet!
Cusco to Puno is 385 km (241 miles).
Which station in Puno? The Perurail Titicaca train uses Puno's main station, search for plain Puno station on Google maps. The Andean Explorer uses a different station near the waterfront called Estacion Muelle Puno, also called Lake Titicaca station, search for Perurail Lake Titicaca station or Estacion Muelle Puno on Google maps.
How much does it cost?
Perurail Lake Titicaca train: $250 - $350 per person in a seat, including meals.
Andean Explorer: From $3,900 for one person or $4,500 for two people for the 1-night trips including lunch, dinner, breakfast & private en suite sleeper.
How to buy tickets
Option 1, see www.perurail.com for times, fares & online booking or buy tickets at www.bookaway.com.
Option 2, Tailor Made Rail & Railbookers offers tours to Peru which include the train to Machu Picchu and Andean Explorer, see here.
The PeruRail Lake Titicaca train
These photos show the pre-2017 Andean Explorer, now been renamed the Perurail Lake Titicaca Train. Feedback has been great, travellers say it's better than the train to Machu Picchu.
The Andean Explorer cruise train
Lima to Huancayo & Huancavelica
The railway between Peru's capital Lima and Huancayo was once the highest railway in the world, until the Chinese built the line to Lhasa in Tibet. The air-conditioned Tren de Sierra links Lima & Huancayo once or twice a month (outside the November-April rainy season, at least), with touristico (1st) class & clasico (2nd) class & bar car. The Touristico fare is around 385 Soles ($125 or £80) and includes breakfast and complimentary tea, coffee, water and soft drinks. Clasico fares start at 230 Soles ($75 or £50). You can check departure dates & book tickets online at www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe. In Lima, the train departs from Desamparados or Monserrate stations. Bear in mind that the high altitude doesn't suit everyone!
Huancayo to Huancavelica
Until some years ago, twice daily trains used to link Huancayo with Huancavelica. The route then ceased for several years but in 2015 this line was back in action. It's now out of action again, although a small 57km section was reopened in early 2023.
Traveller Thomas Gisler reports (September 2015): "The famous Huancayo - Huancavelica railway (the 'Macho Train') is back to service! It is scheduled three times a week, leaving Huancayo on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 06:30 and leaving Huancavelica on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 06:30. as well. The duration of the trip is roughly six hours though it can easily last longer. The journey can be done as a long day trip, taking local transport from Huancavelica back to Huancayo but an overnight stay in Huancavelica is much more convenient.
On the day of my visit there was a huge queue at the train station in Huancayo as early as 05.45. There is no seat reservation or booking of tickets in advance in Huancayo, so be early at the train station to avoid disappointment! Ticket prices are very cheap at 9 soles (less than $1) 2nd class and 13 soles in the buffet car, also referred to as "first class". This is the last remaining 'non-tourist-train' in Peru, serving the locals and offering a unique train experience to the few tourists who make it there despite the lack of any information available online. The journey is very scenic as the train is following the valley and its river, passing through tiny little villages. On arrival in Huancavelica it is possible to buy the ticket back to Huancayo for the following day, which is definitely a good idea.
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Vacations & tours by train
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Tailor Made Rail offer a tour of Peru which includes Machu Picchu by train and the Andean Explorer train to Lake Titicaca. It can be customised your own requirements. They're TTA-protected - like ATOL, but not only for agencies that sell air travel.
Tailor Made Rail's suggested itinerary of Peru is at www.tailormaderail.com, but it can be adjusted to suit you.
Call their dedicated seat61 phone line 020 3778 1461 and quote seat 61 when booking. From outside the UK call +44 20 3778 1461. Lines open 09:00-17:30 Monday-Friday.
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Railbookers
offer several tours
of Peru with train travel included, they have offices in the UK, USA/Canada &
Australia.
UK call 0207 864 4600,
www.railbookers.co.uk.
US call free 1-888-829-4775,
www.railbookers.com.
Canada call free 1-855-882-2910,
www.railbookers.com.
Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526,
www.railbookers.com.au.
New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or
see
website.
Guidebooks
To
get the most out of your trip to Peru, you'll need a
decent guidebook. For the serious independent
traveller this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough
Guide. Both guides have everything you need - plenty
of background historical and cultural information, plus
practical information.
Buy Lonely Planet Peru online at Amazon.co.uk
Buy Rough Guide to South America online at Amazon.co.uk
Hotels in Peru
Backpacker
hostels
www.hostelworld.com: If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels. Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.
Flights to Peru
Overland travel by train around South America is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground! But if a long-haul flight is unavoidable to reach it in the first place, try Virgin Atlantic who now fly from the UK to India, a good choice for both price and service.
Or use the Skyscanner search tool to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...
Travel insurance & other tips
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Always take out travel insurance
Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on
Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com
is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
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Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
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Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
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Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I get a small commission to help support this site.
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Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from buy from Amazon.com.