Magnolia blossom in the lovely city of Zagreb.  Croatia is fabulous, from Adriatic islands to wineries & olive groves in Istria.  Easy by train, no flight needed!
	The rail way to Croatia!  London to Zagreb in 24 hours.

UK to Croatia by train in 24 hours

Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, a 320 km/h double-deck TGV train to Stuttgart, then the excellent Croatian sleeper train overnight to Zagreb, arriving next morning.  Or take Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay overnight, then take a scenic ride through the Austrian mountains to Slovenia and along the pretty River Sava to Zagreb.  It's safe, civilised, comfortable & affordable and unlike a flight, a memorable travel experience.  This page explains how to travel to Croatia by train, with times, fares & how to buy tickets.

  London to Zagreb

  London to Split & Dubrovnik

  London to Korcula, Hvar, Vis, Brac

  London to Rijeka

  London to Istria:  Porec, Rovinj, Pula

  Suggested hotels in Zagreb, Split & Croatia

  Useful country information: currency, dial code...

  Holidays to Slovenia & Croatia by train not plane

  Zagreb station guide

  Trains from Zagreb to other European cities

  Trains from Split & Dubrovnik to other European cities

  Trains to Croatia from other European cities

Train travel information

  General information about European train travel

  Taking your bike    Taking your dog    Luggage 

  Travel insurance, mobile data, VPN & other tips

  Buying UK train tickets to connect with Eurostar

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Useful country information

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London to Zagreb by train

Croatia's capital, Zagreb, is a wonderful city and the hub for trains to Split for buses to Dubrovnik & ferries to Hvar and other Adriatic islands.  It's straightforward, safe & comfortable to reach Zagreb by train.  Here are several good options, using Eurostar or Stena Line's Harwich-Hoek ferry:

• Option 1, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Stuttgart, sleeper to Zagreb:  The fastest and most time-effective option.  Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, an afternoon high-speed train to Stuttgart, then the comfortable Croatian sleeper train Lisinski overnight to Zagreb arriving late morning after a scenic run along the river Sava.  In summer there's a direct sleeping-car from Stuttgart to Rijeka.

• Option 2, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb:  Similar to option 1, but via Zurich instead of Stuttgart.  Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, an afternoon high-speed train to Zurich, then a comfortable Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb arriving late morning after a scenic run along the river Sava.

• Option 3, afternoon Eurostar, Nightjet sleeper train to Vienna, day train to Zagreb, 5 times a week:  Take a mid-afternoon Eurostar from London to Paris or Brussels and the excellent Nightjet sleeper train to Vienna.  The Nightjet runs Paris/Brussels-Vienna 3 times a week.  Spend the morning in Vienna, then take an afternoon train to Zagreb with great scenery along the UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna.

• Option 4, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich, overnight stop, daytime train to Zagreb:  If you prefer daytime trains and a hotel to sleepers, this is the option for you.  Take a morning Eurostar to Paris and the afternoon high-speed train to Munich.  Stay overnight in Munich and continue next day through the mountains of Austria into Slovenia and along the pretty river Sava to Zagreb.

• Option 5, London or Cambridge to Amsterdam overnight by ferry. high-speed ICE trains to Munich & sleeper train to Zagreb.  This is the ferry alternative!  Travel overnight from London or Cambridge to Amsterdam with a cosy private cabin on the overnight Harwich-Hoek ferry, take superb ICE trains across Germany to Munich, have dinner in Munich then take the overnight sleeper to Zagreb.

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Option 1:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Stuttgart, sleeper to Zagreb

This is the fastest & most time-effective option, London to Zagreb in comfort in less than 24 hours.  You'll experience two of Europe's best high-speed trains, Eurostar and France's famous TGV, then an excellent Croatian sleeper train either in an economical couchette or a private sleeper.

London ► Zagreb

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras 10:24 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 13:50.

  Or on any day of the week you can leave London St Pancras at 09:31 arriving Paris Gare du Nord 12:50.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include breakfast.

  In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Monday-Friday & Sunday arriving Stuttgart Hbf 19:04.

  Or if you left London at 09:31, you can leave Paris Gare de l'Est by TGV Duplex at 13:54 on any day of the week, arriving Stuttgart Hbf 17:04.

  The 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Book an upper deck seat for the best views, any seat number above 60 is upper deck.

• Step 3, travel from Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 and arriving Zagreb 10:39.

  Arrival in Zagreb is at 11:33 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.  There's no catering car, so take a picnic and a bottle of wine with you!

  From 14 July to 29 September 2025 there's also a direct Croatian sleeping-car for Rijeka, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 & arriving Rijeka 11:12.

Zagreb ► London

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Stuttgart by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 19:40 & arriving Stuttgart Hbf 08:38.

  Departure from Zagreb is at 18:40 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats.  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

  From 14 July to 28 September 2025, there's a direct Croatian sleeping-car from Rijeka, leaving Rijeka at 18:57 & arriving Stuttgart 08:38.

• Step 2, travel from Stuttgart to Paris by high-speed ICE train, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 10:52, arriving Paris Gare de l'Est 14:07. 

  The high-speed ICE train has a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Do not risk earlier connections.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:12 & arriving London St Pancras 18:32.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include dinner with wine.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book from London to Stuttgart at www.thetrainline.com.  About Thetrainline.

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 11 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 6 months ahead for Paris-Stuttgart and the Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper, see more about when train bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains open for booking before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris. 

  Tip:  You can book from London to Stuttgart all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Stuttgart and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can click Manage your booking at www.eurostar.com to choose a better seat from a seat map, see tips on choosing a seat.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice on buying tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.  If you have any problems, you can also book the sleeper at www.oebb.at.

Another way to buy tickets

• You can also buy direct from the relevant operator.  This is more work on multiple websites, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.  Do a dry run first to check availability before booking for real.

• Step 1, book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com.

• Step 2, book Paris to Stuttgart at the German Railways website int.bahn.de

• Step 3, book the sleeper from Stuttgart to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid phone booking fees and see for yourself which trains are cheapest.  Most agencies only work weekday office hours, you can book online 24/7.  But if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK-based ticketing agencies.

Or use an Interrail pass

• Pass or point to point?

  Let's be clear, a pass will not save money over the cheapest point-to-point advance-purchase fares you might see if you book a few months ahead.  But when point-to-point fares are expensive (for example, at short notice) OR you want the flexibility to change your mind, re-route or reschedule as necessary, a pass might be what you need.

  If flexibility is what you want, buy the pass.  If it's about saving money, you'll have to check point-to-point prices and do the maths.

  It's worth doing the maths if you are under 28, if you have kids (kids get a free pass when accompanying an adult but still need to pay reservation fees) or if you live a long way from London (as a pass covers you from your home station to London).  Passes are available in 1st & 2nd class.

• How to use a pass for a trip to Croatia

  Step 1, buy a 4-days in 1-month Interrail pass from www.raileurope.com (click Rail passes and select Europe) or www.interrail.eu, see pass prices on the Interrail page.  You load the pass into the Railplanner app on your phone.

  A 4-day pass is enough to get from the UK to Zagreb or even Split & back again.  You might need a longer pass if going from Inverness to Split!

  A 4-day pass gives you unlimited train travel on any 4 dates you choose in an overall 1 month period.  The first travel day can be any date you select in the 11 months after buying the pass, the overall 1 month period starts from that date.  Learn about how Interrail passes work here.

  Step 2, make a Eurostar passholder reservation from London to Paris & back, see prices & how to make Eurostar passholder reservations online.  Tip:  Eurostar passholder availability is limited, so check availability before buying a pass.

  Step 3, make a passholder reservation on the Paris-Stuttgart TGV for around €18 each way using the official Interrail reservation service.

  Step 4, make a couchette or sleeper reservation on the Croatian sleeper at www.oebb.at following the instructions here, method 1.  Prices can be found on the Interrail reservations page.

  By all means go out one way, back another, with an Interrail pass you can use almost any of the trains & routes to/from Croatia shown on this page, find out how to reserve the relevant trains using the Interrail reservations guide.

Have your trip arranged as a package

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a UK-Croatia trip for you as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  You'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays on their website which can be customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada call 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia call 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand call 0800 000 554 or see website

• Byway (Byway.travel) is a UK-based eco-holiday firm with a 5-star TrustPilot rating.  If you're nervous about booking train travel yourself, book a one-way or return UK-Croatia train trip through Byway as a package, including hotels, starting from any British station you like.  Byway includes package protection, a 100% Covid refund guarantee, free disruption and re-planning and on-demand WhatsApp support while you're away.

  They can build a trip to your requirements if you phone 0300 131 7173 (open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, from outside the UK call +44 300 131 7173) or email them or use this contact form.  Please say you heard about them from Seat 61.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Plus and Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class: Plus or Premier seating.

Standard class.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train has power sockets at all seats & free WiFi in both classes.  A cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.

3. Stuttgart to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski  Watch the video

This Croatian sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  The air-conditioned sleeping-car has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast with tea or coffee is included in the sleeper fare.  The couchette car is also air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.  A similar sleeping-car operates from Stuttgart to Rijeka at peak times.  Zagreb station guide.

Watch the video: By sleeper to Zagreb

This video was taken on the Zurich to Zagreb sleeper, which is identical to the Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper and takes the same scenic route between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

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Option 2:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV-Lyria to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb

Similar to option 1, but instead of a Paris-Stuttgart TGV and the Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper, you taka a Paris-Zurich TGV-Lyria and the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper.  There are two minor downsides compared to option 1:  First, departure from London is a little earlier with an identical arrival time in Zagreb.  Second, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, with option 1 it's just a 7 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.  But as with option 1, there's lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river.

London ► Zagreb

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 07:01 Mondays-Fridays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 10:19.

  On Saturdays & Sundays, leave London St Pancras at 08:01, arriving Paris Gare du Nord 11:28.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include breakfast.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon, 2 stops on RER line D.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:22 Mondays-Fridays arriving Zurich HB 16:26.

  On Saturdays & Sundays, leave Paris Gare de Lyon at 14:22 arriving Zurich HB 18:26.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  More about TGV-Lyria.

  In Zurich, I recommend steak-frites & a beer at the Brasserie Federal at Zurich HB, see other restaurant suggestions.

• Step 3, travel from Zurich to Zagreb overnight by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zurich HB at 20:40, arriving Zagreb 10:39 next morning.

  Arrival in Zagreb is at 11:33 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.  There's no catering car, so take a picnic and a bottle of wine with you!

Zagreb ► London

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Zurich by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zagreb at 19:40 and arriving Zurich HB 09:20 next morning.

  Departure from Zagreb is at 18:40 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Step 2, travel from Zurich to Paris by TGV-Lyria, leaving Zurich HB at 11:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon 15:38.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, see more about TGV-Lyria.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 18:12 daily except Saturdays, arriving London St Pancras 19:39.

  On Saturdays, leave Paris Gare du Nord at 19:12, arriving London St Pancras 20:39.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include dinner with wine.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

Berths are sold individually, one ticket means one bed.  The other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper or 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper or 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book from London to Zurich at www.thetrainline.com.  About Thetrainline.

  Using Thetrainline means you can book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 11 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 4 months ahead for Paris-Zurich, and up to 6 months ahead for Zurich-Zagreb, see more about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains open for booking before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  You can book from London to Zurich in one go if you like, but for more control I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Zurich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars are cheaper.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are cheaper than two one-ways so book Eurostar as a return.  All other trains are priced one-way so it makes no difference, it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can click Manage your booking at www.eurostar.com to choose a better seat from a seat map, see tips on choosing a seat.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north or west of London, see advice on buying tickets to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website www.sncf-connect.com, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites and a little more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid phone booking fees and see for yourself which trains are cheapest.  Most agencies only work weekday office hours, you can book online 24/7.  But if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK-based ticketing agencies.

Or use an Interrail pass

• See the Interrail section, this route is arranged in a similar way.

What are the trains like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class: Plus or Premier seating.

Standard class.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points at all seats & free WiFi in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More about TGV-Lyria.  Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.  Zurich HB station guide.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train  Watch the video

This Croatian sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.  Zagreb station guide.

Watch the video: Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper

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Option 3, afternoon Eurostar, Nightjet sleeper to Vienna, EuroCity train to Zagreb

This is slower than options 1 & 2 because of the time between trains in Vienna, but what's not to like about some time in the Austrian capital?  This is arguably most comfortable option as the Paris-Vienna & Brussels-Vienna Nightjet trains offer some deluxe sleepers with en suite shower & toilet.  Each Nightjet runs 3 times a week.  In Brussels it's a same-station change, in Paris it's a 7-minute walk between the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, otherwise both routes are very similar.

London ► Zagreb (via Brussels)

• Step 1, travel from London to Brussels by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 13:01 arriving Brussels Midi 16:06.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include lunch with wine.

  Tip:  At Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 2, travel from Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet, leaving Brussels Midi at 19:06 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, arriving Vienna Hbf 10:13.

  Until 14 December 2024 the days of running are Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet.  There's a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has two couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  See the guide to Nightjet accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee, served in your compartment.

  The train travels along the famous Rhine Valley between Koblenz (23:25) and Mainz (00:22), so if you're still awake and your compartment happens to be on the left-hand side of the train, switch off the lights and watch the Rhine pass by, mountains, vineyards, castles & the legendary Lorelei Rock lit by moonlight.  Wonderful!

  In Vienna, you've the best part of a day to enjoy the city.  Left luggage lockers are available.

  Tip:  If you have a sleeping-car ticket, you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf for an hour after arrival, with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & free WiFi.  If you have a 1st class ticket for the onward train, you can use it for an hour or two before departure, too.

• Step 3, travel from Vienna to Zagreb, leaving Vienna Hbf at 12:24, change at Villach, arriving Zagreb 20:45.

  You travel from Vienna to Villach by swish Austrian railjet train (final destination Venice), with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

  At Villach it's a quick and simple change onto a waiting Slovenian & Croatian train called the Mimara, just 3 carriages, all 2nd class.  There's no catering so take your own food & drink.  The Croatian car is open-plan & air-conditioned, the two Slovenian cars have classic non-air-con compartments with windows that open.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Ljubljana & Zagreb, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Mimara.

London ► Zagreb (via Paris)

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 14:31 and arriving Paris Gare du Nord 17:58.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include lunch with wine.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

  Tip:  I'd take the earlier 12:31 Eurostar from London and have an early dinner in Paris, see suggested restaurants near the Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est.  Oysters & Sancerre at the Terminus Nord?

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Vienna by Nightjet, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 19:12 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, arriving Vienna Hbf 10:13.

  Until 14 December 2024 the days of running are Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet.  There's a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has two couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  See the guide to Nightjet accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee, served in your compartment.

  In Vienna, you've time to enjoy the city.  Left luggage lockers are available.

  Tip:  If you have a sleeper ticket, you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf for an hour after arrival, with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & free WiFi.  If you have a 1st class ticket for the onward train, you can use it for an hour or two before departure, too.

• Step 3, travel from Vienna to Zagreb, leaving Vienna Hbf at 12:24, change at Villach, arriving Zagreb 20:45.

  You travel from Vienna to Villach by swish Austrian railjet train (final destination Venice), with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

  At Villach it's a quick and simple change onto a waiting Slovenian & Croatian train called the Mimara, just 3 carriages, all 2nd class.  There's no catering so take your own food & drink.  The Croatian car is open-plan & air-conditioned, the two Slovenian cars have classic non-air-con compartments with windows that open.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Ljubljana & Zagreb, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Mimara.

Zagreb ► London (via Brussels)

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Vienna, leaving Zagreb at 07:05, change at Villach, arriving Vienna Hbf 15:02.

  You travel from Zagreb to Villach on a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Mimara, just 3 carriages, all 2nd class.  There's no catering so take your own food & drink.  The Croatian car is open-plan & air-conditioned, the two Slovenian cars have classic non-air-con compartments with windows that open.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Zagreb & Ljubljana, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Mimara.

  At Villach you've a leisurely hour for a coffee in the station cafe before boarding a swish Austrian railjet train for Vienna, with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

  Tip:  On booking systems, the 07:05 departure from Zagreb reaches Vienna at 14:02, but this involves a 4 minute connection in Villach.  The Mimara is always 10-40 minutes late into Villach and in practice this connection is never made.  So book this sector at www.oebb.at, when the search results appear, click Filters then Comfortable connection time and you'll then see a journey with a longer connection with the 15:02 arrival.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Brussels by Nightjet, leaving Vienna Hbf at 18:13 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays, arriving Brussels Midi 09:55.

  Until 14 December 2024, the days of running are Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet.  There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has two couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  See the guide to Nightjet accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee.

  Tip:  If you have a sleeping-car ticket, you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf with complimentary refreshments & WiFi.

  Tip:  On arrival at Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 3, travel from Brussels to London by Eurostar, leaving Brussels Midi at 12:56 arriving London St Pancras 13:57.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include lunch with wine.

Zagreb ► London (via Paris)

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Vienna, leaving Zagreb at 07:05, change at Villach, arriving Vienna Hbf 15:02.

  You travel from Zagreb to Villach on a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Mimara, just 3 carriages, all 2nd class.  There's no catering so take your own food & drink.  The Croatian car is open-plan & air-conditioned, the two Slovenian cars have classic non-air-con compartments with windows that open.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Zagreb & Ljubljana, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Mimara.

  At Villach you've a leisurely hour for a coffee in the station cafe before boarding a swish Austrian railjet train for Vienna, with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

  Tip:  On booking systems, the 07:05 departure from Zagreb reaches Vienna at 14:02, but this involves a 4 minute connection in Villach.  The Mimara is always 10-40 minutes late into Villach and in practice this connection is never made.  So book this sector at www.oebb.at, when the search results appear, click Filters then Comfortable connection time and you'll then see a journey with a longer connection with the 15:02 arrival.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Paris by Nightjet, leaving Vienna Hbf at 18:13 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays, arriving Paris Est 09:39.

  Until 14 December 2024, the days of running are Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet.  There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has two couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  See the guide to Nightjet accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee.

  Tip:  If you have a sleeping-car ticket you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & WiFi.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord, but I'd allow 2-3 hours between trains in case of delay.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:12 daily arriving London St Pancras 14:30.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include lunch with wine.

How much does it cost?

On the sleeper train, berths are sold individually, one ticket means one bed, other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper, 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper, 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book the nightjet sleeper train from Paris or Brussels to Vienna at www.thetrainline.com and add to basket.  About Thetrainline.

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets together in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, more about when bookings open.

• Step 2, now use www.thetrainline.com to book the London-Paris or London-Brussels Eurostar, and add to your basket.

  Booking opens up to 11 months ahead, but I'd wait until the sleeper is open for booking before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.

  If you're returning, book Eurostar as a round trip because Eurostar return fares are cheaper than two one-ways.  All the other trains are priced one-way so it makes no difference, in fact I find it easier to book one way at a time!

• Step 3, now use www.thetrainline.com again to book from Vienna to Zagreb, add to basket & check out.

  Booking for this train may open only 90 days ahead, see more about when bookings open.

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Alternatively, you can book the Nightjet sleeper train at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at (a little more fiddly, in €, but no booking fee), then book the Eurostar at www.eurostar.com, then book the Vienna-Zagreb train at www.oebb.at.  More work on multiple websites, prices should be the same, but no booking fee.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid phone booking fees and see for yourself which trains are cheapest.  Most agencies only work weekday office hours, you can book online 24/7.  But if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK-based ticketing agencies.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Plus and Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide.  In Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class: Plus or Premier seating.

Standard class.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet  See the Nightjet guide

This Austrian Railways (ÖBB) Nightjet train has two sleeping-cars, two couchette cars & seats.  Each sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with shower & toilet.  The sleeper berths come made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning.  Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers.  In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water.  Couchette passengers get tea or coffee, rolls & jam in the morning.  When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have a sleeping-car ticket you can use the ÖBB lounge with complimentary refreshments & WiFi.  More about Nightjet trains.

3. Vienna to Zagreb by train

You now have to change trains at Villach, using a swish Austrian railjet from Vienna to Villach with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, then a Croatian/Slovenian train called the Mimara. The Mimara is just 3 carriages, all 2nd class, no catering so take your own food & drink.  The Croatian car is open-plan & air-conditioned, the two Slovenian cars have classic non-air-con compartments with windows that open.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Zagreb & Ljubljana, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Mimara.  Zagreb station guide.

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Option 4:  By daytime trains, with overnight stop in Munich

This option isn't as time-effective as the sleeper options, but if you prefer daytime trains and a hotel to sleeper trains, this is the option for you.  You get to see rather than sleep through all that wonderful scenery through the mountains across Austria and along the pretty River Sava from Slovenia to Zagreb.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:24 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Nord 13:48.

  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 12:31 arriving Paris Nord 15:50.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include a meal with wine.

  In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays, arriving Munich Hbf 21:36.

  On Saturdays it leaves Paris Gare de l'Est at 17:54 arriving Munich Hbf 23:26.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check your date at int.bahn.de.

  On Saturdays if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:24 to connect with a TGV leaving Paris at 13:54 for Stuttgart, change there for Munich arriving 19:13.

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Munich timetable here.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  The affordable Eden Hotel Wolff & NH Collection München are across the road from the station's north side exit with great reviews.  Or consider the more upmarket 25 Hours Hotel The Royal Bavarian, Excelsior by Giesel & Mercure City Center.  For a splurge, the luxurious Sofitel Munich Beyerpost occupies the former Royal Bavarian Post Office building of 1896-1900, at the station's south side exit.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:16, change at Villach, arriving Zagreb 17:10.

  You travel from Munich to Villach (in Austria, close to the Slovenian border) by swish Austrian railjet train, with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  After leaving Munich's suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for views of Salzburg citadel.  After Salzburg the train crosses the Austrian Alps, climbing high through the mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.

  At Villach it's a quick & easy change onto a waiting Slovenian & Croatian train called the Sava, usually just across the platform.  In this direction the Croatian/Slovenian train will wait (within reason) if the Austrian train is late, there will be lots of people making this connection.

  The Sava has a mix of Croatian & Slovenian cars, some open-plan with air-conditioning, some classic compartments with opening windows.  I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!  There's no catering so bring your own food & drink, even a bottle of wine if you like.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Ljubljana & Zagreb, a real treat.

  Tip:  You can see the train formation at www.vagonweb.cz, change cs to English, click Train formations and search for Sava.

  Important update:  The closure of the Tauern Tunnel affects this route between 17 November 2024 & 13 July 2025, check times at int.bahn.de.

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich by train, leaving Zagreb at 07:05, change at Villach, arriving Munich Hbf 15:41.

  You travel from Zagreb to Villach on a train called the Croatia, with a mix of Croatian & Slovenian cars, some open-plan with air-conditioning, some classic compartments with opening windows.  There's no catering so bring your own food & drink, even a bottle of wine if you like.  There's beautiful scenery along the Sava river between Zagreb & Ljubljana, a real treat, I'd choose a compartment car with opening windows!

  At Villach in Austria there's a simple cross-platform change onto an Austrian train to Munich.  In this direction the Austrian train will not wait if the Croatia is late, which is why I recommend taking the 07:05 from Zagreb not the 12:50, so you've time to take a later train from Villach to Munich if necessary, your ticket will be valid on later trains if the connection is missed, no worries.

  The air-conditioned Austrian EuroCity train has 1st & 2nd class and a refreshment trolley.  It crosses the Austrian Alps via the Tauern route through superb mountain scenery.  Look out for the fortress at Werfen perched on its hilltop on the left hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  After leaving Salzburg station, look left for views of Salzburg citadel as you cross the Salzach river.

  Important update:  The closure of the Tauern Tunnel affects this route between 17 November 2024 & 13 July 2025, check times at int.bahn.de.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  The affordable Eden Hotel Wolff & NH Collection München are across the road from the station's north side exit with great reviews.  Or consider the more upmarket 25 Hours Hotel The Royal Bavarian, Excelsior by Giesel & Mercure City Center.  For a splurge, the luxurious Sofitel Munich Beyerpost occupies the former Royal Bavarian Post Office building of 1896-1900, at the station's south side exit.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Paris by TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:51, arriving Paris Gare de l'Est 12:32.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Book an upper deck seat for the best views, any seat number above 60 is upper deck, see the video.  Times may vary, check your date at int.bahn.de.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast & later departure from Munich there are later options, see the Munich to London timetable here.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, normally leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:12, arriving London St Pancras 16:39.

  Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Plus & Premier fares include a meal with wine.

  An earlier Eurostar may also be available on some dates.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in Standard, £97 one-way or £168 return in Plus (1st class).

• Paris to Munich by TGV starts at €39.99 each way 2nd class or €69.99 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €39.99 each way in 2nd class or €69.99 in 1st class.

• All these prices vary like air fares, so book ahead.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book the Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.

  Booking opens up to 11 months ahead, but I recommend waiting until onward trains are open for booking before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.  More about when bookings open.

  If you're returning, London to Paris should be booked as a round trip because Eurostar return fares are cheaper than two one-ways.  Onward trains beyond Paris are priced one-way so a return is two one ways and it can be easier to book one way at a time. 

  You print your own tickets or can load them into the Eurostar app on your phone.

• Step 2, book the Paris-Munich TGV at the German Railways website int.bahn.de. 

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.  I recommend registering when prompted, so you can log on at any time and check or reprint tickets.

• Step 3, book from Munich to Zagreb at int.bahn.de.

  You print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.

  Tip:  If for any reason the German Railways website shows only expensive full-flex fares, go to the Austrian Railways site www.oebb.at and book a cheap fare from Salzburg to Zagreb on the same train - Munich-Zagreb trains leave Salzburg about 1h55 after leaving Munich, and ÖBB's cheap fares are called Sparschiene.  Now use www.oebb.at again to add a Munich-Salzburg ticket on that same train.  Use those two tickets in combination.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid phone booking fees and see for yourself which trains are cheapest.  Most agencies only work weekday office hours, you can book online 24/7.  But if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK-based ticketing agencies.

Or use an Interrail pass

• See the Interrail section above.  On this route, you'll need the pass, a Eurostar passholder reservation from London to Paris and a Paris-Munich TGV reservation both of which can be made using the official Interrail reservations service.  A seat reservation from Munich to Zagreb is usually optional, but can be made for around €5.20 at int.bahn.de, run the enquiry by clicking the Book seat only link under the red search button.

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  Their website shows a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Plus and Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class: Plus or Premier seating.

Standard class.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train has power sockets at all seats & free WiFi in both classes.  A cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

3. Munich to Zagreb by train

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views.  The journey involves two trains, a swish Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.  Zagreb station guide.

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Option 5:  Via the Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry

This is the ferry alternative!  It's a great option if you live in East Anglia, if Eurostar is expensive or if you want to avoid the Channel Tunnel.  I don't recommend the Dover-Calais route because of poor train/ferry connections, the Stena Line rail & sail service via Harwich & Hoek van Holland is the one to use as it has co-ordinated timetables and integrated ticketing, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page & watch the video.

London, Cambridge & Harwich ► Zagreb

• Day 1, travel from London to Amsterdam overnight, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

  You leave London Liverpool Street at 19:36 Mondays-Fridays, 19:04 Saturdays or 20:00 Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  Or leave Cambridge at 19:47 Mondays-Saturdays or 19:45 on Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  The Rail & Sail fare is valid from any Greater Anglia station, for example Norwich, Cambridge, Romford, Ilford, Ipswich.

  At Harwich, the station is right next to the ferry terminal and you walk off the train into the terminal, check in at the Stena Line desk and walk straight onto Stena Line's luxurious overnight superferry Stena Hollandica.

  All passengers travel in cosy private cabins with toilet, shower & satellite TV.  Comfort & Captains class cabins are also available, and there's free WiFi.  You can board the ferry around 9pm, have a late dinner in the restaurant or Stena Plus lounge and settle into your cabin.

  The ferry sails at 23:00 and arrives at Hoek van Holland at 08:00 Dutch time next morning.

  On arrival at Hoek van Holland, the metro station is next to the ferry terminal.  Walk down the gangway into the ferry terminal, through passport control, out of the terminal and across the road to the metro station.

  Take the frequent metro train from Hoek van Holland Haven to Schiedam Centrum and a Dutch Intercity train from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam Centraal arriving 10:24.

  At Amsterdam Centraal, have a coffee at the delightfully retro Cafe 1e Klas, give my regards to Elvis, the cockatoo on the bar.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to Stuttgart by ICE, leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 12:38, change at Cologne Hbf, arriving Stuttgart Hbf 18:08.

  ICE trains have a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Times vary, check at int.bahn.de.

• Day 2, travel from Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29, arriving Zagreb 10:39 next morning (day 3).

  Arrival in Zagreb is at 11:33 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

Zagreb  ► Harwich, Cambridge & London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 19:40, arriving Stuttgart Hbf 08:38 next morning.

  Departure from Zagreb is at 18:40 until 13 July 2025, due to engineering work in the Tauern Tunnel.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), an air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Stuttgart to Amsterdam by ICE, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 09:51, change at Cologne Hbf, arriving Amsterdam Centraal 15:29.

  ICE trains have a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Times may vary, check at int.bahn.de.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to London overnight, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

  You leave Amsterdam Centraal at 18:36 by Dutch intercity train to Schiedam Centrum and change onto the metro to Hoek van Holland Haven.

  At Hoek, the metro station is next to the ferry terminal.  Check in at the Stena Line desk at least 45 minutes before sailing time, then walk up the gangway onto the luxurious Stena Line superferry and sail overnight to Harwich.

  All passengers travel in cosy private cabins with toilet, shower & satellite TV.  Comfort & Captains class cabins are also available, and there's free WiFi.  You can board the ferry around 8pm, have dinner in the restaurant or Stena Plus lounge and settle into your cabin.

  The ferry sails from Hoek van Holland at 22:00 and arrives at Harwich International at 06:30 next morning (day 3), UK time.

  Day 3, take a train from Harwich to London Liverpool Street arriving around 08:54 or from Harwich to Cambridge, arriving 09:42 (10:39 Sundays).

How much does it cost?

• London or any Greater Anglia station to Hoek van Holland starts at £62 per person each way, plus cabin.

  For details of fares & cabin costs, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

  Hoek to Schiedam by metro costs around €4.  Schiedam to Amsterdam by train costs €17.20.

• Amsterdam to Stuttgart starts at €37.99 each way in 2nd class or €69.99 in 1st class.  Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead.

• Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train starts at €49.90 with a couchette in 6-berth, €59.90 with a couchette in 4-berth, €69.90 with a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, €89.90 with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper or €129.90 with a bed in a single-bed sleeper all to yourself.  Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, buy a Stena Line Rail & Sail ticket from London to Hoek van Holland online as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

  Buy the onward metro & train ticket to Amsterdam as shown on that page.

• Step 2, book the train from Amsterdam to Stuttgart at the German Railways website int.bahn.de.

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.

• Step 3, book the sleeper from Stuttgart to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com or the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, you print your own ticket.

Or stay overnight in Munich & take a daytime train

• Instead of taking the sleeper you can stay overnight in Munich and take daytime trains to Zagreb next morning.

• Recommended hotels near Munich Hbf include the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel.

• You can leave Munich Hbf at 08:16, change at Villach, arriving Zagreb at 17:10, or there is a later direct train at 12:17 arriving 20:54.

• Fares start at €39.99 each way in 2nd class or €69.99 in 1st class.  Book at the German Railways website int.bahn.de & print your own ticket.

• It works in the return direction too.  Leave Zagreb at 07:00, arrive Munich Hbf 15:41. Stay overnight, then travel to Amsterdam as shown above.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Amsterdam by train & ferry

A train takes you from London's Liverpool Street station directly to the ferry terminal at Harwich.  You walk off the train, into the terminal, get your boarding card & cabin key at the Stena Line check-in desk and walk straight onto the overnight ferry to Hoek van Holland.  The superferry Stena Britannica is the largest ferry of its kind in the world.  All passengers travel in private cabins with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  There's free WiFi in the public areas on 9 deck.  The journey is explained in detail on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  See the video.

The Stena Hollandica boarding at Harwich, a floating hotel with private cabins, restaurant, bar, lounges, shop & kennels.

Above left, a standard outside cabin.  Larger photo.  360º photo.  Above right, the Stena Plus lounge with complimentary red & white wine, tea, coffee & snacks.

Above left, the bar on 9 deck. Above right, a Captain's Class cabin with complimentary minibar, toilet & shower.

2. Amsterdam to Stuttgart by ICE

ICEs are German Railways' premier trains, with 1st & 2nd class, a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  More info about ICE trains.

An ICE3neo at Amsterdam Centraal.  Click on the interior images for larger photos.

The 16-seat restaurant car.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3neo.  Larger photo.

2nd class seats on an ICE3neo.  Larger photo.		Lunch: I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!

3. Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski  Watch the video

This Croatian sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  The sleeper used to run Munich-Zagreb, but is extended to run Stuttgart-Munich-Zagreb from December 2022.  Zagreb station guide.

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car to Zagreb.  It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare. The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava.

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London to Split & Dubrovnik

Option 1 is to travel from London to Zagreb by Eurostar & sleeper train, then take a Zagreb-Split intercity train.  This option works every day, year round.

Option 2 is to travel to Vienna and use the Vienna-Split sleeper, this runs 3 times a week from May to October.  This is a wonderful option if the dates suit.

Option 3 is to travel by train from London to Bari in Italy, then sail across the Adriatic to Split in a cosy cabin on an overnight ferry.

Option 1, London to Split & Dubrovnik by train

London ► Split, Dubrovnik

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown in the London to Zagreb section, using whichever option suits you best.

• Step 2, travel from Zagreb to Split by train, either ICN daytime train through great scenery or (on some days) by sleeper.

  Leave Zagreb 07:03, arriving Split 13:45.  Runs 27-30 March, 1 April, 7 June to 29 September, 28-31October 2024.  2025 dates tbc.

  Leave Zagreb 15:18, arriving Split 21:53.  Runs daily all year round.

  Leave Zagreb 22:30 by sleeper, arriving Split 07:01.  Runs on Friday nights all year round, daily 29 June to 30 August 2024, 2025 dates tbc.

  The ICN trains are comfortable and air-conditioned with 1st & 2nd class seats.  The sleeper train has a sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3 berth compartments and two couchette cars with 6 berth compartments.  You can check train times using www.hzpp.hr.

  Zagreb to Split is a scenic train ride, with mountains, lakes, rivers, and even vineyards.  The trains are comfortable and air-conditioned, see the photos below.  ICN trains tilt round the bends on this mountainous route, cutting the journey time to 5½-6 hours from a previous best of around 8 hours.  There's no catering so bring your own food & drink.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.

• Step 3, travel the last short hop along the Adriatic coast from Split to Dubrovnik.

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

Dubrovnik, Split ► London

• Step 1, travel from Dubrovnik to Split.

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Dubrovnik to Split once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

• Step 2, travel from Split to Zagreb by train, either ICN daytime train through great scenery or (on some days) by sleeper.

  Leave Split 08:23, arriving Zagreb 15:09.  Runs Monday-Saturday all year round, daily 3 June to 29 September 2024. 2025 dates tbc.

  Leave Split 14:09, arriving Zagreb 20:57.  Runs Sundays all year round, daily 7 June to 29 September 2024 plus a few other dates.  2025 dates tbc.

  Leave Split at 21:11 by sleeper train, arrive Zagreb 05:49.  Runs Sunday nights all year round, daily 30 June to 31 August 2024. 2025 dates tbc.

  Use www.hzpp.hr to check train times.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.  It's a lovely scenic ride, bring your own food & drink as there's no catering.  The sleeper train has a sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3 berth compartments and two couchette cars with 6 berth compartments.

• Step 3, travel from Zagreb to London by train using any of the options shown in the London to Zagreb section above.  The afternoon ICN from Split connects nicely with the Lisinski sleeper train to Munich for onward TGV to Paris and London, see above.

How much does it cost?

• For fares from London to Zagreb, see the London-Zagreb section above.

• Zagreb to Split costs from at €15.10 in 2nd class or €22.65 in 1st class, each way, bought online at www.hzpp.hr.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, buy tickets from London to Zagreb online as shown above.

• Step 2, buy a ticket from Zagreb to Split & back at Croatian Railways website www.hzpp.hr and print your own ticket.

Zagreb to Split by ICN train

Traveller Francis Meylan reports:  "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic.  It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food).  Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth.  The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides.  It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why.  Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past!  Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes.  We could see several minefields marked off.  In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky.  If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!

The daytime trains to Split:  These fast, tilting, air-conditioned ICN trains link Zagreb & Split once or twice a day through great scenery.  Above right, first class seats on the train to Split.  below left, second class seats.  You can now buy tickets online at www.hzpp.hr.  Exterior photos courtesy of Gareth Davison.

Scenery between Zagreb and Split seen from the train.  Photo courtesy of Páraic Maguire.

Option 2, using the Vienna - Split sleeper (May to October)

This is an excellent option if you're travelling between May & October.  The Brussels-Vienna & Paris-Vienna sleeper trains currently run 3 days per week and their days of running don't match up well with the 3-days-a-week Vienna-Split sleeper.

London ► Split, Dubrovnik

• Step 1, travel from London to Vienna using any of the options shown on the UK to Austria page.

  For example, you could take the 13:01 Eurostar from London to Brussels or Paris and the Nightjet sleeper train to Vienna.

  You'd then have a day at leisure in Vienna.  Left luggage is available at Vienna Hbf.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Split by direct sleeper train, 3 times a week May-October.

  It runs on Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays from 30 April to 12 October 2025.

  It leaves Vienna Hbf at 19:05 and arrives in Split at 09:51 next morning.

  The train starts its journey in Bratislava.  It has three comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars with 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, a Slovakian couchette car with 4 & 6 berth couchettes and ordinary seats.  You can see details of train formation & carriages if you go to www.vagonweb.cz switch it to English, click train formations and search for train number EN 1153.

• Step 3, take a bus from Split to Dubrovnik.  There are buses every hour or even every half hour, run by several companies.  Journey time between 3h45 and 4h35, fare around €13-€17.  Buy a ticket at the bus station in Split.

Dubrovnik, Split ► London

• Step 1, take a bus from Dubrovnik to Split.

  Buses leave Dubrovnik bus terminal every hour or even every half hour and take between 3h45 and 4h35 to Split bus terminal.  There are various operators, the fare is between €13 and €17.  Buy at the bus station on the day, it's easy.

• Step 2, travel from Split to Vienna by EuroNight sleeper train, 3 times a week May-October.

  The sleeper train runs on Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays from 1 May to 13 October 2025.

  It leaves Split at 17:22 and arrives Vienna Hbf at 08:54.

  The train has three comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars with 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, a Slovakian couchette car with 4 & 6 berth compartments and ordinary seats.  The train continues to Bratislava.  You can see details of train formation & carriages if you go to www.vagonweb.cz switch it to English, click train formations and search for train number EN 1152.

• Step 1, travel from Vienna to London using any of the options shown on the UK to Austria page.

  For example, you can take the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Vienna to Brussels, then a Eurostar to London.

  Or take the Vienna-Paris sleeper then a lunchtime Eurostar to London, see the UK to Austria page.

How much does it cost?

• For fares from London to Vienna see the London-Vienna section on the Austria page.

• Fares from Vienna to Split start at €29.90 in a seat, €49 in a couchette, €79.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, €99.90 in a 2-bed sleeper, €149.90 in a single-bed sleeper.

• A bus from Split to Dubrovnik costs €13-€17.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, buy tickets from London to Vienna as shown on the London-Vienna section on the Austria page.

• Step 2, buy a ticket from Vienna to Split at either www.thetrainline.com (easy, in €, £ or $, small booking fee, international credit cards no problem) or the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at (in €).  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, you print your own ticket.

• Step 3, buy a bus ticket at the bus station when you get to Split, there are lots of buses.

What a journey!  Scenery between Zagreb & Split seen from the sleeper train.  Photos courtesy of Rob Romans.

The comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split, arrived at Split station.  Each compartment can be sold as a single, double or triple, and comes with soap, towel, fully-made up beds and a washbasin.  A light breakfast is included. Larger photo. Photo of 2-berth, courtesy of Michael Allsop.

A couchette car on the train from Bratislava & Vienna, arrived at Split. Larger photo.

Option 3, London to Italy by train, ferry to Dubrovnik, Split or Zadar

• Step 1, travel from London to Ancona or Bari by train.

  You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV or Frecciarossa from Paris to Milan, stay overnight then take a fast train from Milan to Ancona or Bari.  For train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London and Ancona, see the London to Italy page.

  In Ancona, take a taxi to the port, or it's a 30-minute 2.3km walk.

  In Bari, take a taxi to the ferry terminal or it's a 25 minute walk.

• Step 2, sail from Italy to Croatia by ferry.  Allow plenty of time for the connection & check-in at Ancona or Bari.

  Several ferry operators sail from Ancona to Split overnight on various days of the week including www.jadrolinija.hr.  Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810. 

  Between June & September, there's also a daily fast ferry, taking 4 hours, leaving Ancona at around 11:00 and returning from Split at 17:00, see www.snav.it.  There are also some sailings to Zadar.

  www.jadrolinija.hr also sail from Bari to Dubrovnik several times a week in summer (no service in winter), typically sailing at 21:00 and arriving 08:00.  Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.

  If you can't find a ferry to Dubrovnik, then take a ferry to Split then bus to Dubrovnik.  Buses run from Split to Dubrovnik every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures). 

Ferries in Split Harbour.  Above right, a deluxe cabin on the Blue Line ferry (although Blue Line is sadly no longer operating), which even features an en suite jacuzzi.  Photos courtesy of Andrew Leo.

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London to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač

Take a train from the UK to Split, then a ferry.  Departures are daily, all year round.

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown above. You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV Duplex to Stuttgart and a sleeper train to Zagreb.  Or Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay there overnight, then take a wonderful scenic daytime train to Zagreb next day.

• Step 2, then travel on from Zagreb to Split either by daytime train or (in summer) the overnight sleeper train, see the London to Split section above.

• Step 3, take a ferry from Split to the islands.  Ferries sail from Split to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and other nearby islands regularly, see www.jadrolinija.hr for ferry times & information.

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London to Rijeka

Option 1, by direct Stuttgart-Rijeka sleeper

• From 14 July to 29 September 2025, a direct Croatian sleeping-car operates from Stuttgart to Rijeka, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 and arriving Rijeka at 11:12.

  Take Eurostar to Paris and a TGV to Stuttgart to connect with it, see the London-Zagreb section for details.

  It runs back from Rijeka to Stuttgart at 18:57 every day from 14 July to 28 September 2025.

Option 2, changing at Ljubljana, all year

London ► Rijeka

• Step 1, travel from London to Ljubljana as shown on the Slovenia page, using any of the options shown.

• Step 2, travel from Ljubljana to Rijeka by train, leaving Ljubljana at 08:30 (arriving Rijeka 11:12) or at 15:20 (arriving 18:11).

  Trains run from Ljubljana to Rijeka twice a day at these times, you can check train times at int.bahn.de.  The morning train should connect out of the sleeper from Stuttgart/Munich & Zurich.  The afternoon train should connect out of the morning train from Munich & Salzburg.

Rijeka ► London

• Trains leave Rijeka at 11:50 (arriving Ljubljana 14:38) and at 18:57 (arriving Ljubljana 21:42).

  Allow plenty of time (an hour or two) to make connections in Ljubljana, and/or stay overnight if necessary.  You can check train times at int.bahn.de.

• Travel from Ljubljana to London as shown on the Slovenia page, using any of the options shown.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• See the fares in the London-Ljubljana section, and buy tickets from London to Ljubljana as shown there.

• Bought at the station in Ljubljana, the Ljubljana-Rijeka fare is around €17 one-way, €27 return.  Advance reservation isn't necessary for Ljubljana-Rijeka trains, so you can buy a ticket at Ljubljana on the day & hop on, this will be much cheaper than buying a ticket from outside Slovenia.  The ticket office at Ljubljana is easy to find and English is widely spoken.

The train to Rijeka.  This is the afternoon train to Rijeka, about to leave Ljubljana.  At the front is an air-conditioned EuroCity car, the other two cars are older.  On this occasion, it's waited a few minutes for the late-running EuroCity Sava to arrive from Munich, with connections from Paris, Amsterdam & London.

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London to Porec, Rovinj, Pula & Istria

Istria, land of olive oil, wineries and truffles, was once part of the Venetian empire, and after a spell with the Austro-Hungarians it was again part of Italy between the wars.  Even today, the dual-language place names and road signs reveal it's Italian heritage.  For Istrian tourist information, see www.istra.hr.  Now part of Croatia, Istria can be reached overland from the UK in a couple of ways.

Option 1:  By train from London to Ljubljana, then train to Pula

• Take any option you like from London to Ljubljana, as shown on the London to Slovenia page.  Stay overnight in Ljubljana if necessary.

• Ljubljana to Pula

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends early April to late August, leaving Ljubljana around 06:12 and arriving Pula at 10:43.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 08:15 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 13:03.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 13:35 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 19:10.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

  See potniski.sz.si/en/pula

• Pula to Ljubljana

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends early April to late August, leaving Pula 17:57 and arriving Ljubljana at 22:34.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 09:05 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 17:05.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 14:36 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 19:42.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

  See potniski.sz.si/en/pula

• No reservation is necessary, just buy a Ljubljana to Pula ticket at the station, fare €25 one-way or €30 return.

Option 2:  By train from London to Rijeka, then bus to Porec, Rovinj, Buje, Motovun, Pula

This is another reliable all-year-round way to reach Istria, as mainline trains run to Rijeka which is a hub for buses serving destinations all over Istria.  First, travel from London to Rijeka as shown above.  On arrival in Rijeka, walk out of the station and turn right.  The bus station is 2 minutes walk straight down this main road, you can't miss it.  Every couple of hours, buses link Rijeka with the historic coastal town of Porec, delightful picturesque Rovinj, and the wonderful roman remains in Pula.  The main bus company is www.autotrans.hr, you can easily buy bus tickets when you get to Rijeka.

Option 3:  By train to Venice, then fast ferry to Porec, Rovinj or Pula

This option operates from April to October, and is a great option as it combines Venice with Istria. 

First, travel from London to Venice as shown on the London to Italy page.  For example, travel by Eurostar & TGV to Switzerland, stay the night there, then travel through the Alps to Milan and Venice next day.  The choice is yours. 

Venezia Lines (www.venezialines.com) operate ferries from Venice April-October on various days of the week to Porec, Rovinj (Rovigno in Italian) Umag and Pula (Pola in Italian).  The Venice-Porec ferry crossing takes 2½ hours.  Start by checking the days the ferries operate at www.venezialines.com.  On days when a 17:00 ferry sails from Venice you can leave London in the afternoon on day 1, spend most of day 2 in Venice, and arrive in Porec or Rovinj in the evening of day 2!

Rovinj:  The picturesque seaside town of Rovinj.  The church tower looks very like St Marks in Venice, showing Istria's Venetian history.		Porec:  You can climb the UNESCO-listed church tower in Porec.		Pula:  The Roman arch, Pula.  The famous Irish writer James Joyce taught English in the building on the left 1904-5.

www.venezialines.com link Venice & Istria, April-October.  Why not combine a visit to Venice with Istria?		Buses link Rijeka with most destinations in Istria, www.autotrans.hr.

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Holidays to Croatia by train

Railbookers can custom-make a flight-free holiday to Croatia with train travel, transfers & hotels all arranged for you, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like.  If you tell them what you want, they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you.  They get a lot of repeat business and a lot of recommendation by word of mouth!

  UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

  US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

  Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

  Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

  New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  I think that the Lonely Planets and the Rough Guides are easily the best for the independent traveller.  Both guides have plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus lots of practical information.  You won't regret buying one of these guides..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", was published in June 2008, and is available from Amazon.co.uk with shipping worldwide.

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Hotels in Zagreb & Croatia

In Zagreb: The Esplanade Hotel

Book a room at the venerable & historic Esplanade Hotel If you can possibly afford it - it's not even expensive by western standards.  Built in 1925 for Orient Express passengers stopping at Zagreb.  It's perfectly located, next to the station and an easy walk from Zagreb old town.  With art deco features, it's the top choice!

For something slightly cheaper, but still close to Zagreb's main station with good or great reviews, try the Palace Hotel, also a historic building with art nouveau features.  I can also recommend the more modern Central Hotel.

Suggested hotels in Split

For something special if your budget will stretch, try the Murum Heritage Hotel, set in part of Roman emperor Diocletian's palace, right in the centre near the port & city museum.  For something cheaper, but still in that same central historic area, try the Sleep Split Hotel or the ID Regal Residence, both with great reviews.

My favourite hotel search: www.booking.com Booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally use it to book all my hotels in one place.  I've come to trust booking.com's review scores, you won't be disappointed with any hotel that scores 8.0 or more.  Crucially, booking.com usually lets you book with free cancellation, which means you can confirm accommodation risk-free before train booking opens and/or you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when planning a trip.  I never book hotels non-refundably!

Backpacker hostels

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  There's no need to buy a physical SIM card!  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  Why you need a VPN

When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I also get some commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone.  You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

 

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