The World's Best Train Ride?

A few years ago, the Wanderlust Travel Awards included a new category, Best Rail Journey.  So who won?  The train to Machu Picchu in Peru?  A train through the Swiss Alps?  A ride through the Canadian Rockies?  No.  Readers of Wanderlust Magazine voted for the wonderful West Highland line from Glasgow to Fort William & Mallaig as the world's best train journey.  Rightly so in my opinion, as the West Highland Line is not only the most scenic train route in Britain, it's one of my favourite journeys anywhere.  This page explains what there is to see on the West Highland line, and how to plan & book a journey on it. You can also travel on the West Highland line on a daily summer steam train, or even on a luxury cruise train.

Where does the West Highland line go?

The West Highland Line runs from Glasgow to Fort William (the largest town in the West Highlands) and on to Mallaig, a tiny fishing port and terminal for the ferry to Armadale on the Isle of Skye.  Most of the line is a twisting single track railway through fabulous Highland scenery, often miles from the nearest road.  There's also a branch to Oban, the ferry terminal for several other Scottish islands.  Just 3 ScotRail sprinter trains a day link Glasgow Queen Street with Fort William & Mallaig, fewer on Sundays, in addition to the London-Fort William sleeper, see www.nationalrail.co.uk for times & fares.  It's not fast, taking 3h45 for the 123 miles from Glasgow to Fort William or 5h15 for the 164 miles from Glasgow to Mallaig, stopping at all wayside stations.

A winter ride on the West Highland line

These photos were taken some years ago on a magical winter morning on the London to Fort William Caledonian Sleeper.  Compare them to a recent summer morning's journey on the current London to Fort William sleeper here.

Tip:  From Glasgow to Fort William, sit on the left-hand side for the best views northbound, right hand side southbound.

Departure from Glasgow.  The West Highland Line starts at Glasgow Queen Street, passing through the Glaswegian suburbs towards Helensburgh.  You run along the shores of Loch Lomond (on the right-hand side of the train) towards Ardlui station.  Next stop, Crianlarich, where the line to Oban branches off.

After Crianlarich comes Upper Tyndrum (pictured above right), high up on the hillside above the village, with Tyndrum Lower on the steadily diverging line to Oban in the valley below.  The tiny village of Tyndrum is the smallest place in Britain with two separate stations.

The Horseshoe curve.  North of Tyndrum, the railway builders hadn't the money for a viaduct across the mouth of a broad valley.  The result is the famous 'horseshoe curve', where the line enters, circles & leaves the glen at the foot of Beinn Dorain (pictured above, 3524 feet), Beinn a' Chaiseil (2897 feet) & Beinn Odhar (2948 feet).

The Horseshoe curve again, looking backward (above left) and forwards (above right)

Bridge of Orchy station		Stags, seen from the train

More winter scenery.		Rannoch station

Rannoch Moor.  The bleakest part of the line, where the railway is 'floated' across the peat bog on layers of turf and brushwood without solid foundations.  Here, the train is crossing the short viaduct north of Rannoch station.

The bleakness of Rannoch Moor in winter.

Corrour.  If Rannoch is remote, Corrour station is even more so.  Probably Britain's most remote station, it's miles from anywhere accessed by a mere track.  The station featured in the 1996 film 'Trainspotting'.  Just north of Corrour station is the summit of the line, 1,350 feet above sea level.

Looking back at Corrour, Britain's most remote station.

Loch Treig.  For several miles the train passes beautiful Loch Treig.  The West Highland Line still has jointed rails, not welded rails, and the train's wheels clickety-clack along.

A frosty Scottish river		Tulloch station

Monessie Gorge.  After Tulloch station, look out for the pretty Monessie Gorge on the left, where the railway is built on a ledge along a rocky canyon with the river bubbling along below.		Fort William, 123 miles from Glasgow.  A modern station built in 1975.  The railway originally extended along what is now the ring-road to a station off the high street.

Climbing Ben Nevis:  Fort William station is only 10 minutes walk from the bottom of the tourist track up Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain, 4,409 feet or 1,344m.  It takes 3½-5 hours to climb, 1½-2½ to descend.  Climbing Ben Nevis by the tourist track.

Fort William to Mallaig

Fort William is the largest town on the West Highland Line and the Caledonian Sleeper from London terminates there.  But the West Highland Line extends further north to the fishing port & ferry terminal of Mallaig, and many people regard this as the nicest section of the route.  Mallaig is the ferry terminal for the Isle of Skye and several Scottish islands.  Four ScotRail sprinter trains a day link Fort William & Mallaig in each direction (one on Sundays), taking about 90 minutes - most run direct to and from Glasgow.  On this section, the left-hand side of the train gets most of the best views going north, right-hand side going south, including views round the curve onto Glenfinnan viaduct - but if travelling to or from Glasgow, remember the train changes direction at Fort William which is a terminus, so you'll have to switch sides there!

Departure from Fort William.  Settle into your seat on the ScotRail sprinter train for the 1½ hour, 41-mile journey to the end of the line at Mallaig.  The train has power sockets, but no WiFi.

Old Inverlochy Castle.  Soon after leaving Ft William, look out for the ruins of Old Inverlochy Castle on the right just before crossing the River Lochy.		Neptune's Staircase.  At Banavie, the first stop, look to the right to see Neptune's Staircase, the series of locks on the Caledonian Canal across Scotland.

Loch Eil.  For some miles the train runs along the banks of saltwater Lock Eil.  This is the view looking back from Banavie towards Fort William and Ben Nevis.

Glenfinnan Viaduct.  Just before Glenfinnan station, the train crosses Glenfinnan viaduct as featured in the Harry Potter films.  Built by contractor Robert McAlpine in 1901, it was one of the first rail viaducts to be built of concrete.  During construction, the story goes that a horse backed up a wagon to pour rubble into one of the hollow piers.  It backed too far, toppled backwards into the pier, and was sealed up.  The story was vindicated a few years ago, but on another viaduct, when maintenance staff using X-ray equipment found the skeleton of a horse in one of the piers of the Loch Nan Uamh viaduct.  The best views at Glenfinnan are on the left hand side of the train.

Glenfinnan & Loch Shiel.  Down at the side of Loch Shiel, a monument commemorates Bonnie Prince Charlie raising his standard here in August 1745.

Glenfinnan Station.  Check out the station museum (www.glenfinnanstationmuseum.co.uk).  It even has accommodation in converted 1950s railway carriages.

Lock Eilt.  The train runs along what is perhaps the most picturesque loch on the route, with several tree-strewn islands like this.  The best views here are on the right-hand side of the train.

Church of Our Lady of the Braes.  Just after Lochailort station you might glimpse this church on the left.  It featured in the 1983 film 'Local Hero'.  Church services ceased in 1964.		The train meets the sea at Arisaig then Morar, on the left hand side.  The sandy beaches at Polnish & near Morar were used in the films 'Local Hero' and 'Highlander'.

Arisaig, the most westerly railway station in Britain.  You didn't think that would be in Cornwall, now, did you?  Above right, the train approaches Mallaig.

Mallaig is journey's end, 164 miles from Glasgow.  For accommodation, try the West Highland Hotel or The Moorings B&B.  For food, try the locally-caught haddock & chips at the Fishmarket restaurant on main street, or the wonderful langoustines & mussels at either The Cabin restaurant, the Steam Inn or Cornerstone restaurant near the corner of Main Street & Davies Brae.

Ferry to Skye & the islands.  Mallaig is the ferry terminal for ferries to Skye (Armadale), also the Scottish islands of Muck, Eigg and Rum.  For ferry information, see www.calmac.co.uk.

A brief history

• Tiring of the 50-mile trek to the railhead of Kingussie on the Highland Line to Inverness, the citizens of Fort William decided they must have their own railway, and construction started in 1889.  It was not an easy railway to build, across remote and difficult regions of the Scottish highlands.  Lack of money meant the line featured many steep gradients and sharp curves as more direct alignments would have meant expensive viaducts & cuttings.  The first trains linked Glasgow with Fort William in August 1894. 

• The next step was an extension to the sea, to serve the fishing industry on the west coast.  A plan to serve Roshven was blocked by a local landowner, so Mallaig was chosen instead.  However, the extension became something of a political football and the Mallaig Extension wasn't opened until 1901. 

• The separate branch line to Oban wasn't originally part of the Glasgow-Fort William-Mallaig line at all, it had its own route from Glasgow via Callander, opened in 1880 and operated by the rival Caledonian Railway.  This passed under the Glasgow-Fort William line just north of Crianlarich, and you can just make out the old track-bed today from the train to Fort William. The line from Glasgow via Callander was closed during the Beeching cuts in the 1960s, and trains between Glasgow and Oban diverted to share the line to Crianlarich with the Fort William trains.

• For more information, buy a copy of the excellent Iron Road to the Isles by Michael Pearson, £4.99.  This has a route map and blow-by-blow account of what you can see from the train along the route, plus information about the history of the line.  Highly recommended!

• The West Highland Line Wikipedia entry provides some useful background to a journey on the line.

Practical information

Times, fares & tickets

• London to Fort William by sleeper

  The northbound Caledonian Sleeper leaves London Euston at 21:15 every night except Saturday night, arriving Fort William at 09:57 next morning.  Fares from around £140 each way with a private sleeper for one or from £170 with a private sleeper for two people.  The southbound sleeper leaves Fort William at 19:50 on Mondays-Fridays, 19:00 on Sundays, arriving at London Euston around 07:47 next morning.  Friday nights are busiest, mid-week nights quieter so you're more likely to find the cheapest tickets.  See the Caledonian Sleeper page for more information & online booking.

• Elsewhere in Britain to Fort William & Mallaig

  You can travel by daytime trains from almost anywhere in Britain to Fort William & Mallaig via Glasgow, use any British train operator website such as tfw.wales or www.avantiwestcoast.co.uk, international credit cards accepted with no booking fee or card fees.

• Travel on the West Highland Line: Glasgow-Fort William-Mallaig

  3 trains a day (1 on Sundays) link Glasgow's Queen Street station with Fort William & Mallaig over the West Highland Line all year round, with an additional fourth train between Fort William & Mallaig.  The whole West Highland Line can be done as a day trip from Glasgow on Mondays-Saturdays, leaving at around 08:21, with 2½ hours in Mallaig, returning to Glasgow by 21:30.  But it's better to spend a couple of days exploring.

  A day return from Glasgow to Mallaig costs £45.10, good for any train.

  A 1-month return costs £67.80, good for any train.

  Advance-purchase fares (no refunds, no changes to travel plans) start at £5 each way.  To check trains times & fares, see www.scotrail.co.uk.

  In addition to the regular ScotRail trains, you'll find a Jacobite steam-hauled train from Ft William to Mallaig once or twice a day throughout the summer, see www.westcoastrailways.co.uk.

The Jacobite steam train, www.westcoastrailways.co.uk

• Update May 2024:  The Jacobite is suspended until further notice.

  Operator West Coast Railways was given considerable time to fit central door locking to its slam-door coaches.  But it failed to do so and was stopped from operating.  It has now found a new set of carriages and is operating again, but with a shorter train and reduced capacity meaning seats may not be bookable online.  Check with www.westcoastrailways.co.uk.

• Dates & timetable:  During the summer months there's a twice-daily steam train between Fort William & Mallaig in each direction.  It runs Monday-Friday from mid May to early October, also on Saturdays & Sundays from late June to late August, leaving Fort William at 10:15, arriving Mallaig around 12:25.  It departs again from Mallaig at 14:10, arriving Fort William about 16:00.  There is a second round trip in the afternoon May-September.

• Prices:  Special fares apply, £57 day return in 2nd class or £89 in 1st class.  There are no one-way fares.

• The train:  You travel in British Railways 1950s Mark 1 or Mark 2 carriages, with opening door droplights and window ventilators that make photography easier than through modern trains' sealed windows.  You may be hauled by one of several possible vintage steam locomotives, typically an ex-LMS 4-6-0 'Black Five'.  There are 1st & 2nd class seats, a buffet car and a refreshment trolley.  Harry Potter fans will find it a real Hogwarts Express experience, too, over the Glenfinnan Viaduct featuring in the Harry Potter films.

• How to buy tickets:  For more information & to buy tickets online see www.westcoastrailways.co.uk.

  Tip:  Book early, the Jacobite is very popular and gets fully-booked weeks or sometimes months ahead.

  Tip:  A limited number of tickets are usually available to buy on the day, even if the train is shown as sold out online.  Ask the guard in car E, and have sufficient cash with you as cards are not accepted.  But it's best to pre-book if you can.

• Add a cruise in Mallaig:  You can add a one-hour wildlife cruise from Mallaig in summer between the Jacobite arrival and departure times, see www.westernislescruises.co.uk.  They run a departure designed to get you back in time for the return Jacobite, it's usually easy to buy on the day if you haven't pre-booked.

• Connection with the sleeper from London:  I've been asked about this at various times over the years!  The Caledonian Sleeper from London arrives in Fort William at 09:57, the morning Jacobite leaves at 10:15 from the other side of the same platform (there are only 2 platforms at Fort William!).  It's such an easy connection to make if the sleeper is on time, but a risky one to pre-book as the sleeper can be delayed and the Jacobite won't wait.  Given the high cost of a ticket for the Jacobite, either book the afternoon departure from Fort William instead, or do what I did, don't book the Jacobite in advance, if the sleeper gets in on time simply walk across the platform and ask the guard in coach E of the Jacobite if there are any tickets to Mallaig available.  There usually are, even if the Jacobite is shown as sold out online.

The Jacobite about to leave Fort William for Mallaig.  The Caledonian Sleeper from London has arrived on the other platform.

First class on the Jacobite train.		Second class on the Jacobite train.

The Jacobite crosses the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct of Harry Potter fame.

Bus & ferry connections

• Ferries from Mallaig to Skye (Armadale), Canna, Eigg, Muck & Rum:  www.calmac.co.uk.  The Mallaig-Armadale ferry sails up to 8 times a day, crossing time 30 minutes, fare £3.20 each way.

• Buses from Armadale to Broadford, Portree & other towns on Skye:  www.stagecoachbus.com.  Several buses daily Mondays-Saturdays, but no service on Sundays.  Change at Broadford for another bus over the new(ish) & controversial Skye Bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh.  You can then take another great Scottish scenic train ride, the Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness line, then take mainline trains from Inverness back south.  This makes a great circuit of the Highlands, if you can work out the buses.

• Local ferry from Mallaig to Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula:  www.knoydartferry.com.  A local ferry sails from Mallaig along the coast to Inverie, a remote settlement unreachable by road, see website for sailing times.  This makes a great day trip, visiting Britain's most remote pub, The Old Forge, www.theoldforge.co.uk.

• Wildlife cruises from Mallaig, see www.westernislescruises.co.uk for days, times & prices.

Local area, food, hotels & accommodation

• www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk is one of the best resources for information about the towns & villages on the Fort William-Mallaig-Skye 'Road to the Isles', for finding accommodation, local attractions & things to do.

• In Fort William, there are many B&Bs and hotels.  If you feel like pushing the boat out, there's the famous & luxurious Inverlochy Castle Hotel, originally the family home of the Baron Abingers from its construction in 1863 until 1969.  It won 'Scottish Hotel of the Year' 2008, double rooms from £380 a night.  It's 4 miles from Fort William town centre, but they'll send a courtesy car to pick you up from the station.  For something less expensive but still comfortable, the venerable Alexandra Hotel is just across the ring road from the railway station.

• In Glenfinnan, there's the Glenfinnan Seeping-car right next to the station, 1950s carriages turning into unique accommodation.  Or the Glenfinnan House Hotel, www.glenfinnanhouse.com.

• In Mallaig, there are a number of B&Bs (try The Moorings B&B, I can highly recommend) or the West Highland Hotel (closed November-March).  The Marine Hotel is right next to the station in the middle of Mallaig. Great location, and (unintentionally, no doubt!) something of a 1970s theme experience.  For food, The Fish Market (www.thefishmarketrestaurant.co.uk) is well known for its excellent fish & chips, or try the equally excellent Steam Inn for fresh mussels & langoustines as well as good beer.

• Rent a cottage:  Renting a house or cottage for a week or two is a great idea.  I can recommend www.sykescottages.co.uk for this.

Short breaks from London to the Scottish Highlands

• Train travel specialist Railbookers arranges short breaks & longer tours from London to Edinburgh & the Highlands, and several packages include the Caledonian Sleeper.  Railbookers can arrange trips for almost any date you like, trips can be customised to your own requirements with additional stops or extra nights.  Download brochure (UK edition)

  - City break to Edinburgh by Caledonian Sleeper.

  - London - Caledonian Sleeper - Edinburgh - York - London.

  - London - Edinburgh - Fort William - Jacobite steam train to Mallaig - Caledonian Sleeper back to London.

  - London - Caledonian Sleeper - Inverness - Kyle of Lochalsh - Isle of Skye - London.

  - London - Caledonian Sleeper - Inverness - Loch Ness & Glen Urquhart - Edinburgh - London.

• Call to arrange, they have offices in the UK, North America & Australia:

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk, download brochure. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, www.railbookers.com.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, www.railbookers.com.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, www.railbookers.com.au. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

West Highlands by luxury train:  The Royal Scotsman

Scotland has its very own cruise train, the luxurious & exclusive Royal Scotsman.  Several times each month from May to October the Royal Scotsman offers 3-night land cruises from Edinburgh up the West Highland line & back with all meals, wine, whisky, afternoon tea and excursions all included from around £3,000 per person based on two people sharing.  It's a unique way to see a lot of Scotland in luxury in just a few days.  They also offer 2 & 4-night tours to other parts of Scotland.  For more information, photos & online booking, see the Royal Scotsman page.

The Royal Scotsman, Scotland's very own cruise train.		A twin bed stateroom on the Royal Scotsman, with shower & toilet.  The train spends nights in a siding or platform, so you can sleep soundly.		The lounge-observation car, with complimentary drinks & open-air observation platform.

Britain's other scenic rail routes

There are many other scenic routes in Britain, including:

• Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh, for more Scottish Highland beauty.

• Leeds to Carlisle over the famous Settle & Carlisle Line, through the bleak, beautiful & windswept Pennines.

• The Central Wales Line from Shrewsbury to Swansea, through pretty Welsh countryside.

• The Cambrian Coast Line from Shrewsbury to Aberdovey, Tywyn, Portmadog & Pwllheli, for Welsh country and coastline.

• Exeter to Penzance along the sea wall at Dawlish & across Brunel's bridge at Saltash.

• Edinburgh, Glasgow & Perth to Inverness over the Highland Line (a few photos here).

• Edinburgh to Dundee & Aberdeen across the famous Forth & Tay Bridges (a few photos here).

• London to Edinburgh on the East Coast Main Line, route of the Flying Scotsman.

You can check trains times for all of these routes www.nationalrail.co.uk.

Download an excellent map of Britain's national rail network here.

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