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November 2024
Amsterdam>London Eurostars to resume 10 Feb 2025
The new Eurostar terminal at Amsterdam Centraal was due to open in December, but station renovation work has overrun. The new terminal will open and direct Amsterdam>London Eurostars will resume on 10 February.
Changes in the 2025 European timetable
Each year, I compile a list of the significant changes in the European 2025 timetable, which starts 15 December 2024:
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Faster Brussels-Amsterdam IC service: ICNG (Intercity New Generation) trains take over Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam-Amsterdam Intercity services, with faster journeys. Service will be doubled to half-hourly over the Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam sector. On the downside, trains will be diverted to use Amsterdam Zuid instead of Amsterdam Centraal, meaning visitors will either have to change at Schiphol to reach Centraal, or pay for a metro ticket from Zuid to the centre.
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New direct Amsterdam-Munich day train: A daily direct Amsterdam-Munich ICE train is expected to start, departure from Amsterdam at 08:32, arrival in Munich at 15:26. Westbound, departure from Munich 16:28, arrival in Amsterdam at 23:29. This is the first direct connection for some years.
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New direct Paris-Berlin day train: A daily direct Paris-Berlin ICE train is expected to start, departure from Paris 09:55, departure from Berlin 11:54, journey time 8h. This is the first direct daytime connection for decades, as far as I can remember. Breakfast in Paris, lunch on board, dinner in Berlin...
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New direct non-high-speed Paris-Brussels trains: A new Belgian Railways EuroCity service of 3 trains a day in each direction will be introduced over the classic route between Brussels & Paris via Mons, similar to that provided for the Olympics in July-September this year.
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New direct Barcelona-Toulouse AVE will run once a day from summer 2025.
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Berlin-Krakow EuroCity trains increased from 2 a day each way to 3, see the new timetable.
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An extra Munich-Zurich EuroCity train, 6 trains per day increased to 7, see the new timetable.
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New Prague-Wroclaw-Poznan-Gdansk-Gdynia EuroCity trains 4 times daily in each direction, a major new corridor.
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The Amsterdam-Vienna/Innsbruck Nightjet will be rerouted via Bad Bentheim instead of Utrecht & Arnhem, due to trackwork and congestion on the Amsterdam-Cologne route. No big deal for Amsterdam, but it means that Düsseldorf & Cologne lose their sleeper to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna. The Amsterdam-Vienna portion of this train should become a new generation Nightjet from April 2025.
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The Paris/Brussels <> Vienna/Berlin Nightjet changes days of running: It will run eastbound on Mon, Wed, Fri instead of Tue, Thur, Sun, and will run westbound Tue, Thur, Sun instead of Mon, Wed, Fri. This means there will be TWO Brussels-Berlin sleepers within half an hour of each other on those days, and NONE on the other 4 days!!
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Westbahn extends two trains to Stuttgart: One morning and one afternoon Vienna-Munich Westbahn trains will be extended to/from Stuttgart.
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Paris-Barcelona TGV times change, the 09:42 Paris-Barcelona is retimed to leave Paris at 07:42, the 13:25 Barcelona-Paris retimed to leave Barcelona 16:25. See timetable.
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The direct Vienna-Bratislava line reopens after a 9 month closure for electrification. Journey time is cut from 1h09 to 56 minutes.
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Tauern Tunnel closed until 13 July. This will affect Munich/Salzburg<>Ljubljana/Zagreb trains, it means the Zurich/Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper is diverted via Graz not calling at Lesce-Bled or Ljubljana, and the Munich-Rome, Munich-La Spezia and Stuttgart-Venice sleepers are cancelled.
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Paris-Latour de Carol Intercite de Nuit is reduced from daily all year to weekends-only, daily June-September, due to badly-planned trackwork simultaneously affecting both possible routes between Paris & Toulouse. It will still run Paris-Toulouse daily, but with a later arrival in Toulouse on the other days.
Odds & ends this month
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India reduced its Advance Reservation Period (ARP) from 120 to 60 days from 1 November. It was 60 days until 2008 when it was extended to 90 days, then extended to 120 days in 2012, reduced to 60 days in 2013 to make ticket scalping by agencies harder, restored to 120 days in April 2015 and now reduced again to 60 days from 1 November 2024 'to reduce the % of cancellations and no-shows and improve ticket availability'.
October 2024
Dublin-Belfast Enterprise trains go hourly
From 29 October, the 2-hourly Enterprise service between Dublin and Belfast is increased to hourly, a much needed improvement from 8 trains a day to 15. To do this, not all departures will be operated with the original excellent Enterprise trainsets. Some will be operated by Irish Rail Intercity Railcars (which also have 1st class and catering) and by Translink class 3000 diesel units which only have 2nd class and no catering. New trains are to be ordered for this route, but are some years away.
Bashtil station opens in Cairo
A vast modern station opened in Cairo this month called Bashtil, some 7km west of Cairo's historic Ramses station. It seems to be handling the deluxe sleeper trains to/from Upper Egypt already. Other trains will no doubt follow, if they haven't already. I have added it to the Egypt page.
Belfast Grand Central Station opens for trains 13 October
Trains will start using Belfast's swish new Grand Central Station from Sunday 13 October 2024, including the Enterprise Expresses to/from Dublin. It's next to the site of the former Great Victoria station in downtown Belfast, much closer to the centre than the old Lanyon Place station.
Stuttgart-Venice, Munich-Rome sleepers cancelled until July 2025
The Stuttgart-Venice, Munich-Rome and Munich-La Spezia Nightjet sleepers will be cancelled from 17 November 2024 to 13 July 2025, due to the closure of the Tauern Tunnel for major maintenance. The Zurich/Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper will be diverted via Graz and won't call at Lesce-Bled or Ljubljana. I have added warnings to all relevant sections (if you find a section without a warning paragraph, let me know!
Changes expected in the 2025 timetable
Each year, I compile a list of significant changes expected in the European 2025 timetable, which starts 15 December 2024:
-
Faster Brussels-Amsterdam IC service: ICNG (Intercity New Generation) trains take over Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam-Amsterdam Intercity services, with faster journeys. Service will be doubled to half-hourly over the Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam sector. On the downside, trains will be diverted to use Amsterdam Zuid instead of Amsterdam Centraal, meaning visitors will either have to change at Schiphol to reach Centraal, or pay for a metro ticket from Zuid to the centre.
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New direct Amsterdam-Munich day train: A daily direct Amsterdam-Munich ICE train is expected to start, departure from Amsterdam at 08:32, arrival in Munich at 15:26. Westbound, departure from Munich 16:28, arrival in Amsterdam at 23:29. This is the first direct connection for some years.
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New direct Paris-Berlin day train: A daily direct Paris-Berlin ICE train is expected to start, departure from Paris 09:55, departure from Berlin 11:54, journey time 8h. This is the first direct daytime connection for decades, as far as I can remember. Breakfast in Paris, lunch on board, dinner in Berlin...
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New direct non-high-speed Paris-Brussels trains: A new Belgian Railways EuroCity service of 3 trains a day in each direction will be introduced over the classic route between Brussels & Paris via Mons, similar to that provided for the Olympics in July-September this year.
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New direct Barcelona-Toulouse AVE will run once a day from summer 2025.
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Berlin-Krakow EuroCity trains increased from 2 a day each way to 3, see the new timetable.
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An extra Munich-Zurich EuroCity train, 6 trains per day increased to 7, see the new timetable.
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New Prague-Wroclaw-Poznan-Gdansk-Gdynia EuroCity trains 4 times daily in each direction, a major new corridor.
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The Amsterdam-Vienna/Innsbruck Nightjet will be rerouted via Bad Bentheim instead of Utrecht & Arnhem, due to trackwork and congestion on the Amsterdam-Cologne route. No big deal for Amsterdam, but it means that Düsseldorf & Cologne lose their sleeper to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna. The Amsterdam-Vienna portion of this train should become a new generation Nightjet from April 2025.
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The Paris/Brussels <> Vienna/Berlin Nightjet changes days of running: It will run eastbound on Mon, Wed, Fri instead of Tue, Thur, Sun, and will run westbound Tue, Thur, Sun instead of Mon, Wed, Fri. This means there will be TWO Brussels-Berlin sleepers within half an hour of each other on those days, and NONE on the other 4 days!!
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Westbahn extends two trains to Stuttgart: One morning and one afternoon Vienna-Munich Westbahn trains will be extended to/from Stuttgart.
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Paris-Barcelona TGV times change, the 09:42 Paris-Barcelona is retimed to leave Paris at 07:42, the 13:25 Barcelona-Paris retimed to leave Barcelona 16:25. See timetable.
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The direct Vienna-Bratislava line reopens after a 9 month closure for electrification. Journey time is cut from 1h09 to 56 minutes.
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Tauern Tunnel closed until 13 July. This will affect Munich/Salzburg<>Ljubljana/Zagreb trains, it means the Zurich/Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper is diverted via Graz not calling at Lesce-Bled or Ljubljana, and the Munich-Rome, Munich-La Spezia and Stuttgart-Venice sleepers are cancelled.
September 2024
Budapest-Belgrade partially reopens 24 November
Direct express trains between Budapest & Belgrade have been suspended since 2019 while the line is completely rebuilt, completion is due for 2026 when trains will link Budapest & Belgrade in just 2h40. The Novi Sad-Belgrade section reopened in 2022 and the Subotica-Novi Sad section will reopen on 24 November 2024, allowing 200 km/h SOKO trains to link Subotica & Belgrade. It will then be possible to travel from Budapest to Belgrade 3 times a day in around 6h50, with changes of train at Szeged & Subotica. Details of the new service are on the Budapest to Belgrade page.
Sales opening for Christmas
The 2025 timetable starts on 15 December all over Europe and booking horizons are never maintained over the timetable change! Sales of French trains for dates 15 December to 8 January will open 2 October. German & Austrian trains for dates after 15 December are likely to open around 16 October.
Brussels-Venice sleeper in Feb & March 2025
On various dates in February & March 2025, open-access train operator European Sleeper (www.europeansleeper.eu) will run a sleeper train linking Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Utrecht with Munich, Innsbruck, Verona & Venice via the scenic Brenner Pass. You'll be able to travel from London to Venice with one easy same-station change in Brussels. Details are now on a new European Sleeper to Venice page, more info will be added when known. Booking will open this month.
Gotthard Base Tunnel back to normal
On 2 September, normal service resumed between Zurich & Milan via the Gotthard Base Tunnel. Trains had been diverted over the old scenic Gotthard line since August 2023 when a freight train derailed inside the tunnel, seriously damaging it. I have now removed the warning updates.
Changes expected in the 2025 timetable
Each year, I start a list of significant changes expected in the European 2025 timetable, which starts 15 December 2024:
-
Faster Brussels-Amsterdam IC service: ICNG (Intercity New Generation) trains take over Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam-Amsterdam Intercity services, with faster journeys. Service will be doubled to half-hourly over the Brussels-Antwerp-Rotterdam sector. On the downside, trains will be diverted to use Amsterdam Zuid instead of Amsterdam Centraal, meaning visitors will either have to change at Schiphol to reach Centraal, or pay for a metro ticket from Zuid to the centre.
-
New direct Amsterdam-Munich day train: A daily direct Amsterdam-Munich ICE train is expected to start, departure from Amsterdam at 08:32, arrival in Munich at 15:26. Westbound, departure from Munich 16:28, arrival in Amsterdam at 23:29. This is the first direct connection for some years.
-
New direct Paris-Berlin day train: A daily direct Paris-Berlin ICE train is expected to start, departure from Paris 09:55, departure from Berlin 11:54, journey time 8h. This is the first direct daytime connection for decades, as far as I can remember. Breakfast in Paris, lunch on board, dinner in Berlin...
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The Amsterdam-Vienna/Innsbruck Nightjet will be rerouted via Bad Bentheim instead of Utrecht & Arnhem, due to trackwork and congestion on the Amsterdam-Cologne route. It's not clear if this is permanent or only for part of 2025. The Amsterdam-Vienna portion of this train will become a new generation Nightjet from April 2025.
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New direct non-high-speed Paris-Brussels trains: A new Belgian Railways EuroCity service of 3 trains a day in each direction will be introduced over the classic route between Brussels & Paris via Mons, similar to that provided for the Olympics in July-September this year. This is good news for Interrail & Eurail passholders, at last an inexpensive alternative to the busy Eurostar-formerly-Thalys high-speed trains with their hefty reservation fees.
Odds & ends this month
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From 16 September, Renfe are swapping the afternoon Madrid>Algeciras Intercity train for a morning one. In the return direction it remains an afternoon one. Pre-pandemic Renfe ran both morning and afternoon trains on this route, but they have only resumed one. This isn't even a recognised timetable change date. I have had to re-write the outward journeys on the UK-Morocco and UK-Gibraltar pages.
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You can now make passholder reservations between Warsaw & Vilnius online at the LTG Link website, reservations advice updated. Travelling 1st class is still a palaver, with split booking required whether travelling on a pass or with regular tickets, advice also updated.
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The SBB Travel Centre at Zurich Hbf has moved from the north side of the main hall to a new location on the south side. I now need new photos!
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In India, the Trains at a Glance free download link went 404 a few weeks ago. A new link has appeared, but they now want 30 rupees to download it. I have updated my links!
August 2024
LNER abolish Off-Peak fares to more stations: The workaround
In February, UK train operator LNER abolished the flexible, refundable Super-Off-Peak fare between London and Newcastle, Berwick & Edinburgh. From 1 October they will also abolish it between London and all stations Newcastle to Edinburgh Gateway, inclusive. The replacement is an inflexible, dynamically-priced Advance 70 Flex fare which is less flexible than the Super Off-Peak fare it replaces and often more expensive. And if you have to cancel your trip, you lose all your money as the new fare is non-refundable. On the London-Edinburgh page I show a workaround, by booking to/from Finsbury Park instead of London Kings Cross as Super-Off-Peak fares still exist on this flow, at the same prices as previously applied to/from London. You can get a much better deal this way!
Tunisia-Algeria trains restored after 30 years
A train service between Tunis and Annaba in Algeria is to be restored this month, after being discontinued in 1995, give or take an abortive attempt to resume in 2003. It will run 3 times a week, journey time 7 hours, with 1st & 2nd class. Details on the Algeria page.
Paris-Milan to remain blocked until March 2025
SNCF Infrastructure have now said that the landslide blocking the Paris-Turin-Milan line will not now be cleared and the line reopened until at least March 2025.
Odds and ends this month
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At Paris Gare du Nord, the luggage lockers are open again after some building work in early 2024 temporarily closed them. It's now a staffed desk rather than self-service lockers.
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The Interrail/Eurail reservation service can now finally book passholder reservations on Renfe's AVE trains between Madrid/Barcelona and Perpignan/Montpellier/Lyon/Avignon/Marseille. A big step forward, this was a significant problem for passholders!
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I've released an updated video showcasing the London-Harwich-Hoek-Amsterdam train & ferry service. This shows the new Aventra trains between London and Harwich, the refitted Stena Line ferry, and the new permanent metro station at Hoek. It's in 4K, replacing an HD one.
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I've now had a chance to ride the new ICE3neo now in service between Brussels/Amsterdam and Cologne-Frankfurt, also the new ruby refurbished Eurostar (formerly Thalys) trains. You'll see the new photos on the site.
July 2024
Gotthard Base Tunnel to reopen fully on 2 September
It's been out of action since the freight derailment last year, with Zurich-Milan trains diverted over the original Gotthard line taking 4h17 instead of 3h17. Normal service will resume on 2 September.
Tanzania's standard gauge railway starts operations.
The first section of standard gauge railway (SGR) opened in early July between Dar es Salaam and Morogoro, with the next section to Dodoma due to open in late July. Tanzania now has some modern electric air-conditioned trains. The old metre-gauge trains to Arusha and Mwanza still seem to be running from Dar, but information is hard to get and no doubt the situation is going to change as more SGR opens.
A direct Bangkok-Vientiane train starts 19 July
Existing night train 133/134 between Bangkok and Nong Khai will be extended over the Friendship Bridge to the new station at Vientiane from 19 July. It will convey 3rd class seats, air-con 2nd class seats and air-con 2nd class sleepers of the ex-Japanese type with bays of 4 berth opening onto a side aisle. Details are now on the Laos page.
Odds and ends this month
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The Munich/Vienna - Bologna/Florence/Rome Nightjet is suspended until 9 September due to trackwork in Italy, but when it resumes on 10 September it will become a new generation nightjet, complete with mini cabins. The h/Vienna - Milan/Genoa/La Spezia portion of this train and the Vienna/Stuttgart-Venice train all remain conventional Nightjets for now.
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The booking horizon for Thai trains has been extended to 6 months, less for shorter hops on long-distance trains.
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I have added an easy way to buy a Deutschland Ticket for a specific month with a one-off credit card payment. No subscription, no need to cancel afterwards within a certain time or risk being billed for another month, no need for a German bank account or direct debit, or a German phone number or address, etc. etc. Apparently it works better because a Dutch vendor is involved!
June 2024
Paris-Berlin/'Vienna and Brussels-Berlin Nightjets suspended 12 Aug-25 Oct
ÖBB have given up trying to run the Paris-Berlin, Paris-Vienna & Brussels-Berlin Nightjet sleeper train from 12 August to 25 October 2024, due to the amount of trackwork, mainly in France. The Brussels-Vienna route (which is normally combined with these other 3 routes) will continue to run.
Operators used to tell the civil engineers when they could dig up the track. Now track has been separated from train operations, infra companies tell operators when it’s convenient to run trains. Is the tail now wagging the dog? Are infrastructure companies out of control? It certainly looks like it!
ICE3neo takes over Brussels-Frankfurt
Brand new ICE3neo (class 408) trains have taken over the international routes Brussels-Cologne-Frankfurt and Amsterdam-Cologne-Frankfurt from the problem-plagued ICE3M (class 406). As well as restoring reliability to these key routes, the new trains have more luggage space, 20 more seats, a restaurant car and (a welcome addition) 8 bike spaces. Bikes are expected to become bookable later, perhaps from August, when the new trains are bedded in. I was expecting this to happen gradually between now and December, but it happened over one weekend, 15/16 June, all departures are now ICE3neo. A big improvement!
Hong Kong-Beijing/Shanghai sleeper trains
The classic Z-category sleeper trains between Hong Kong and Beijing/Shanghai have been suspended since the pandemic. They ran alternate days, but took around 24 hours. From 15 June, new high-speed sleeper trains will link Hong Kong to both Beijing and Shanghai on Friday to Monday nights, taking just 1 night.
It's also reported that MTR (the HK transit authority) has ceased booking these international trains, an allocation of places used to be held on both the MTR and Chinese Railways system, now all booking is done on the Chinese system.
Odds and ends this month
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DFDS are selling their Copenhagen-Oslo ferry route to Gotlandabotlaget, probably in October, including ferries and terminals.
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You can now buy Paris metro tickets on your iPhone, without the need to get hold of a Navigo Easy card first. The How to cross Paris page has been updated!
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TER trains between Paris, Troyes & Mulhouse and Paris, Châlons and Strasbourg will become reservation-compulsory from 6 July. The fee for Interrail and Eurail passholders will be €1.70. The Seat61 Interrail/Eurail reservations page has been updated.
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Station guides for Porto and Lisbon added, Lisbon-Faro and Lisbon Porto route pages updated.
May 2024
Odds and ends this month
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Trains between Sofia and Bucharest will start/terminate at Sofia Sever (= Sofia North) from 7 May 2024 for maybe a year, I have added warnings to most but not all pages. Sofia Sever is 2.7 km from Sofia Central.
April 2024
Eurostar to unify classes & fares from November
From November, Eurostar will unify the class names & fare Ts & Cs for its Eurostar-formerly-Eurostar and Eurostar-formerly-Thalys services. The new class names are Eurostar Standard, Eurostar Plus (with food & drink on cross Channel routes as now) and Eurostar Premier.
A significant improvement is that Eurostar Standard & Eurostar Plus passengers will be able to exchange their ticket without any change fee (just paying any difference in fare) as many times as they like until an hour before departure. Fares will also become refundable (less a £25/€25 fee) until 7 days before departure, currently Eurostar-formerly-Eurostar fares are all non-refundable.
Flixtrain exits Sweden
Open-access operator Flixtrain has summarily quit Sweden, discontinuing the Stockholm-Gothenburg trains it introduced in 2021 with (it seems) very little notice. It has relocated rolling stock to Germany, citing increasing demand there. This leaves Swedish national operator SJ and open-access operator MTRX competing on this route.
Snälltåget launches Copenhagen-Stockholm trains from €26
Open-access operator Snälltåget is offering 2 trains a day between Copenhagen & Stockholm from 16 May to 29 September 2024, in competition with established operator SJ (Swedish Railways). Fares start at just 299 SEK (€26) and the trains feature Snälltåget's classic restaurant car, the Krogen. I think they find suppressed demand on this route, and I expect we'll see more Snälltåget trains on this route in due course! I have added them as option 2 in the Stockholm-Copenhagen and Copenhagen-Stockholm sections.
European sleeper reaches Prague!
European Sleeper extended their Brussels/Amsterdam - Berlin sleeper train to Prague on 25 March, and also added much nicer ex-German Railways Autozug 5-berth couchette cars. The older ex-Slovakian 6-berth cars are likely to disappear completely by 2025. I rode the inaugural train to Prague, you can see the video here. The morning run along the beautiful river Elbe between Dresden & Prague makes this a scenic sleeper! I have added photos of the new cars and the Elbe scenery to the European Sleeper page.
Odds & ends this month
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ÖBB's (Austrian Railways) first new-generation railjet train have entered service, and these new low-floor trains with all-new interiors will replace the classic EuroCity carriages on the 13:34 and 15:34 Munich -Verona trains and 09:01 & 11:01 Verona-Munich trains. All the Munich-Italy Brenner route trains will be railjets by 2025. See inside the new generation railjets in this video.
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Stena Line refitted both its Harwich-Hoek ships in January, I sailed back from Prague via Hoek van Holland so have refreshed the relevant photos. Cabins haven't changed, but a new bigger Stena Plus lounge has replaced the à la carte restaurant, lounges and self-service restaurant have had a makeover, the cinema has gone, kids play area and lounges enlarged. It's a big improvement in what were already great ships.
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SNCF (French Railways) soft-launched a formal luggage policy for their TGVs in February, it will be enforced from September. It's fairly generous so unlikely to catch normal travellers out, but worth knowing about if you're transporting anything of an unusual size, shape or quantity. I have added details to the Train travel in France page and the Luggage on European Trains page.
March 2024
Odds & ends this month
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European sleeper adds newer 5-berth air-conditioned couchette cars: From 25 March, European Sleeper will add newer former DB Autozug couchette cars with air-conditioning and 5 berths per compartment, these are now bookable. Couchettes are now shown as 'standard' with 6 berths per compartment in older non-air-con cars, or 'Comfort' in newer air-conditioned cars with 5 berths per compartment. There are no 4-berths any more. I have (I hope) reworded all relevant sections accordingly.
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Regiojet doubles its Vienna-Budapest trains from 2 to 4 next month. Now shown on the Vienna-Budapest page.
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New trains London-Stirling: The Office of Rail & Road has approved an application from open-access operator Grand Union Trains to run 4 London-Stirling trains a day from June 2025. They will also serve MK, Nuneaton, Crewe, Preston & Carlisle. See www.granduniontrains.co.uk/stirlingtolondon. This basically means more trains to Scotland, more seats and lower fares.
February 2024
Odds & ends this month
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Summer-only compulsory reservation on German cross-border trains: In summer from 1 June to 1 September, seat reservation will become compulsory on almost all cross-border trains to/from Germany run by DB and its partners other than via Basel or Schaffhausen. This is far more extensive than previous summers, when only Amsterdam-Frankfurt ICEs and Hamburg-Copenhagen trains were affected. It remains to be seen if DB will make it even more of a problem by removing the ability to make reservation-only bookings on their website, which they did last year for the affected routes. I've added a note to the relevant bits of the Interrail/Eurail reservations page.
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Temporary suspension of Vienna-Bratislava REX8 trains: Electrification work in Slovakia means that the REX8 regional express trains between Vienna & Bratislava Hlavna will be suspended from 3 March to 14 December. You'll have to use REX6 between Vienna & Bratislava Petrzalka, which isn't nearly as convenient, especially for connections to elsewhere in Slovakia. Notes added to the Vienna-Bratislava page & elsewhere.
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Extension of trains to the new station in Vientiane from Nong Khai in Thailand has been put back from April to mid-May.
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Seats that face forward on Thalys: I now understand that Thaly..., sorry, I mean Eurostar-formerly-Thalys trains, usually run with car 1 or 11 at the Paris end, car 8 or 18 at the Amsterdam or Cologne end. I have added this information to the Eurostar-formerly-Thalys page and the seat maps page. In particular, this should help American visitors who all seem to get motion sick when facing backwards!
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European Sleeper heading for Prague: In preparation for the European Sleeper being extended to Prague next month, I have updated the UK-Czechia page and trains from Brussels, Amsterdam & Prague pages.
January 2024
LNER simplified fares trial
LNER - in all other respects one of the best UK train operators - is launching simplified fares from London to Newcastle, Berwick & Edinburgh as a pilot scheme. From early February, only 3 fares will exist on these flows, all one way - which ought to be a good thing.
However, most of us had expected those 3 fares to be fully-flexible, semi-flexible & inflexible, in other words, Anytime, Off-Peak & Advance. LNER's new fares structure is Anytime, Advance & Advance, in other words fully-flexible and expensive, inflexible with a little flex, and inflexible.
The existing £87 London-Edinburgh Super-Off-Peak fare is affordable, refundable, good for any off-peak train all day and can be used on any operator & via any permitted route. Break of journey (stopping off) is allowed and it has a fixed price so you always know what to expect even if you plan to buy on the day.
It's being replaced from February with a new Advance 70 Minute Flex fare that is non-refundable, LNER only, direct route only, dynamically priced, no stopovers allowed and only good for a 2h20 time slot (i.e. your booked train time +/- 70 minutes). That represents a massive reduction in flexibility.
On a Monday in February for example, I'm now seeing £101 Advance fares and £121 Advance 70 Flex fares (no refunds, limited validity, no break of journey etc) on trains where an £87 Super-Off-Peak fare would always have been available (and refundable, break of journey allowed, good for any off-peak train, etc.). And as the £87 is in effect a maximum, all Advance fares would have cost less than that.
The workaround? Haymarket is one stop north of Edinburgh and is not included in the pilot. I recommend London-Edinburgh passengers buy a London-Haymarket Super Off-Peak ticket for a fixed-price £87, refundable, good via any permitted route, good for any operator. The refundability alone might save you hundreds of pounds on a round trip if your plans change unexpectedly.
Similarly, Manors is one stop north or Newcastle and Reston is one stop north of Berwick, you can buy Off-Peak tickets between Manors or Reston and London and legitimately board in Newcastle or Berwick. At least while this is only a pilot affecting the 3 major stations.
One further thing: This new restrictive fare structure might work (just!) on very long runs such as London-Scotland, where (a) the main competitor is air and (b) people are prepared to plan their lives around the train operator's needs & requirements, rather than the other way round. It's unlikely to work where people need mobility, as in Aylesbury to London or Lewisham to Charing Cross. So even if it's accepted by the public on London-Edinburgh, it can't be rolled out network-wide. There'd have to be two different fares systems, one for long haul and one for short haul routes and maybe a hybrid for medium distances. Which complicates things again, with more split-ticketing opportunities. Whereas Anytime, Off-Peak & Advance (with Advance absent on short flows) would work over all distance ranges.
Temporary service Paris-Milan
From 10 January there will be an afternoon Paris-Milan TGV and an afternoon Milan-Paris TGV. Before you get too excited, the line via Modane is still blocked by the landslide that occurred on 27 August last year, this train is presented as a direct train but is in fact a TGV, a bus transfer around the blockage between St Jean de Maurienne and Oulx, then another TGV. But it's something! I have added details to the Paris-Milan page. You can also travel via Switzerland, without buses.
Odds & ends this month
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I've just picked up that the Vienna-Cluj direct sleeping car, diverted a longer route due to trackwork this year, has morphed into a couchette car as well. It may change back when the route reverts to normal.
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The Nightjet sleeper from Munich/Vienna to Florence/Rome will again be diverted south of Bologna to Rimini and Ancona due to trackwork this summer. I have added a note.
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Trains between Prague & Krakow have resumed calling at Oswiecim (better known by its German name, Auschwitz) following completion of long-term trackwork and are no longer diverted via Katowice.
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In Sweden, Snälltåget no longer allows online booking for Interrail & Eurail passholders, you now have to phone their customer services in Sweden - or travel with SJ instead!
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I've received operating dates for trains in Cuba for 2024, Train Travel in Cuba page updated.
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Malta page updated to show direct fast ferry Valetta-Gozo.
December 2023
Budapest to Belgrade possible by train
Well, almost. The Budapest-Belgrade main line remains closed for major upgrading until at least 2025 and all direct fast trains remain suspended. But a new local service started in December between Szeged in Hungary and Subotica in Serbia. Combined with a local train between Subotica and Novi Sad on a parallel local line then a fast train from Novi Sad to Belgrade, it's possible for the determined train traveller to get from Budapest to Belgrade with a few hours for lunch in Subotica. Almost, because there's still a 10-minute one-stop bus replacement between a station on the outskirts of Novi Sad and Novi Sad station. It's maybe not the best inter-capital train service in Europe, but with the Zagreb-Belgrade train still suspended, this is apparently the best service between western Europe and Belgrade that Serbian railway brains can come up with. See the Budapest to Belgrade page.
New Vilnius-Riga train
For the first time in years, a direct daily passenger train will link the capitals of Lithuania and Latvia, starting 27 December. See the Vilnius-Riga page.
Bangladesh: New railway to Cox's Bazaar
A new railway opened on 1 December, linking Cox's Bazaar (Bangladesh's premier beach resort) to the rest of the network. There's a direct overnight train from Dhaka to Cox's Bazaar, but as far as I can see it only ha s seats, not sleeping berths. It serves Chittagong, but a 4am! More trains may be added in due course.
Cape Town-Jo'burg & Durban-Jo'burg resume!
The Shosholoza Meyl sleeper train from Cape Town to Johannesburg, suspended during the pandemic then hit by vandalism of the rail network, finally resumes from 6 December, initially once a week. Durban-Jo'burg has already resumed.
New faster timetable in Southern Thailand
Following completion of a double-tracking project, trains between Bangkok and southern Thailand have been retimed and speeded up, sometimes by two hours or more. This includes the sleeper between Bangkok and Padang Besar in Malaysia.
European timetable changes from 10 December
The annual European timetable change takes place on 10 December, here's a summary of the most significant changes in the 2024 timetable. Most of these new services are now shown on the relevant pages of this website:
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Top news is that two new Nightjet sleeper trains will start, Brussels-Berlin & Paris-Berlin, initially 3 times per week, due to become daily in October 2024.
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The Brussels-Vienna Nightjet sleeper will be rerouted to serve Munich Ost and Salzburg, as east of Mannheim it will be combined with the train from Paris. The whole Paris/Brussels<>Vienna/Berlin service group is due to become daily in October 2024, when further New generation Nightjet trains release more conventional stock from other routes.
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New generation Nightjet trains will go into service on Hamburg-Vienna and Hamburg-Munich/Innsbruck, with Vienna-Venice, Stuttgart-Venice, Vienna-Rome, Munich-Rome to follow in October 2024. The new trains release the necessary conventional cars to add the new routes above.
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In April 2024, the first new-generation railjet trains with all-new interiors will replace the old locomotive-hauled EuroCity cars on the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona-Bologna/Venice Brenner Pass route, with more to follow in October.
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A second direct Vienna-Berlin ICE with be added leaving Vienna at 06:13 (the current one leaves at 10:13), and both Vienna-Berlin ICEs will extend to Hamburg. Together with the Vienna-Prague-Berlin railjet and the Vienna-Berlin Nightjet, there are four direct trains between Vienna and Berlin when a few years ago there were, for a while, none. This new train makes Vienna-Copenhagen possible in a day, with 1 easy change.
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The Warsaw-Vienna sleeper Chopin will be extended beyond Vienna to Linz, Salzburg & Munich, although this means that the westbound train will then serve Vienna at an unholy 04:49!
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A second Vienna-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Vienna at 16:10, arriving Krakow 21:34. It makes Zurich to Krakow possible in a single day (for example), with one easy change in Vienna.
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A second Berlin-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Berlin at 16:52, arriving Krakow 23:54. Brussels to Krakow and Amsterdam to Krakow become possible in a single day, in both directions. Which also means you can leave London on any evening Eurostar, stay overnight in Brussels and reach Krakow the next day, a useful option. Krakow is a tourist hotspot that used to have appalling international rail connections, it's been great to see how these have been transformed.
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The Berlin-Vienna Nightjet & Berlin-Budapest sleeper will be rerouted via Dresden & Prague rather than Poland. This means a later departure from Berlin (19:21 instead of 18:52) and a welcome earlier arrival in Berlin northbound (08:15 instead of 09:55).
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The direct Frankfurt-Milan EuroCity train will switch from an Astoro to a new Giruno train and will be routed via the Gotthard in both directions (at present it runs via the Gotthard in one direction and the Lötschberg in the other).
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Iryo will run 2 direct trains per day between Barcelona and Cordoba, Seville, in competition with Renfe's two daily existing trains, doubling the service on this route.
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Hamburg-Copenhagen trains are increased from 3 to 5 per day all year round and 7 in high summer (in 2023 it was 3 all year, 5 in summer). However, direct Hamburg-Aarhus trains are dropped in favour of connections out of the Hamburg-Copenhagen service (possibly the right decision, at least from visitors/tourist/passenger volume point of view. Sorry Aarhus!).
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There's major engineering work on the line from Oradea to Cluj in Romania. The 2 daily Budapest-Cluj trains are cancelled and the morning Budapest-Brasov train will convey a portion via Alba Julia to Cluj. The Vienna-Cluj sleeper is diverted via Alba Julia instead of Oradea, taking over 2h longer.
Odds & ends this month
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I've revised the Belgrade-Sofia page, as even the Dimitrovgrad-Sofia train, supposedly only suspended for a week or two due to trackwork, has not resumed. I now show Belgrade-Nis by train, Nis-Sofia by bus. How the once-mighty Orient Express main line has fallen...
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Interrail reservation fees for Thalys-now-Eurostar services have increased.
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Reservation fees for the Bernina Express have increased, quite significantly, for 2024.
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The Berner Oberland Bahn (BOB) joins Interrail/Eurail from 10 December, so trains from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen & Grindelwald are now covered by these passes.
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The Cafe 1e Klas at Amsterdam Centraal is now open 7 days a week, no longer closed on Mondays (Elvis will be pleased)
November 2023
No direct Amsterdam-London Eurostars July-Dec 2024
The Eurostar terminal at Amsterdam Centraal will close for 6 months while the station is refurbished and a new larger Eurostar terminal built in one of the under-track passageways. London to Amsterdam Eurostars will continue to run direct, but in the Amsterdam to London direction, Eurostars will run Amsterdam-Brussels (with no check in), you'll alight at Brussels, go through the check-in process and re-board a Eurostar for London. Just as they did before the terminal originally opened, in fact. The current terminal can only process 250 passengers for a 900-seat train, the new terminal will be able to check in up to 650 passengers.
European timetable changes from 10 December
The annual European timetable change takes place on 10 December, here's a summary of the most significant changes in the 2024 timetable. Most of these new services are now shown on the relevant pages of this website:
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Top news is that two new Nightjet sleeper trains will start, Brussels-Berlin & Paris-Berlin, initially 3 times per week, due to become daily in October 2024.
-
The Brussels-Vienna Nightjet sleeper will be rerouted to serve Munich Ost and Salzburg, as east of Mannheim it will be combined with the train from Paris. The whole Paris/Brussels<>Vienna/Berlin service group is due to become daily in October 2024, when further New generation Nightjet trains release more conventional stock from other routes.
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New generation Nightjet trains will go into service on Hamburg-Vienna and Hamburg-Munich/Innsbruck, with Vienna-Venice, Stuttgart-Venice, Vienna-Rome, Munich-Rome to follow in October 2024. The new trains release the necessary conventional cars to add the new routes above.
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In April 2024, the first new-generation railjet trains with all-new interiors will replace the old locomotive-hauled EuroCity cars on the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona-Bologna/Venice Brenner Pass route, with more to follow in October.
-
A second direct Vienna-Berlin ICE with be added leaving Vienna at 06:13 (the current one leaves at 10:13), and both Vienna-Berlin ICEs will extend to Hamburg. Together with the Vienna-Prague-Berlin railjet and the Vienna-Berlin Nightjet, there are four direct trains between Vienna and Berlin when a few years ago there were, for a while, none. This new train makes Vienna-Copenhagen possible in a day, with 1 easy change.
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The Warsaw-Vienna sleeper Chopin will be extended beyond Vienna to Linz, Salzburg & Munich, although this means that the westbound train will then serve Vienna at an unholy 04:49!
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A second Vienna-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Vienna at 16:10, arriving Krakow 21:34. It makes Zurich to Krakow possible in a single day (for example), with one easy change in Vienna.
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A second Berlin-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Berlin at 16:52, arriving Krakow 23:54. Brussels to Krakow and Amsterdam to Krakow become possible in a single day, in both directions. Which also means you can leave London on any evening Eurostar, stay overnight in Brussels and reach Krakow the next day, a useful option. Krakow is a tourist hotspot that used to have appalling international rail connections, it's been great to see how these have been transformed.
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The Berlin-Vienna Nightjet & Berlin-Budapest sleeper will be rerouted via Dresden & Prague rather than Poland. This means a later departure from Berlin (19:21 instead of 18:52) and a welcome earlier arrival in Berlin northbound (08:15 instead of 09:55).
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The direct Frankfurt-Milan EuroCity train will switch from an Astoro to a new Giruno train and will be routed via the Gotthard in both directions (at present it runs via the Gotthard in one direction and the Lötschberg in the other).
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Iryo will run 2 direct trains per day between Barcelona and Cordoba, Seville, in competition with Renfe's two daily existing trains, doubling the service on this route.
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Hamburg-Copenhagen trains are increased from 3 to 5 per day all year round and 7 in high summer (in 2023 it was 3 all year, 5 in summer). However, direct Hamburg-Aarhus trains are dropped in favour of connections out of the Hamburg-Copenhagen service (possibly the right decision, at least from visitors/tourist/passenger volume point of view. Sorry Aarhus!).
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There's major engineering work on the line from Oradea to Cluj in Romania. The 2 daily Budapest-Cluj trains are cancelled and the morning Budapest-Brasov train will convey a portion via Alba Julia to Cluj. The Vienna-Cluj sleeper is diverted via Alba Julia instead of Oradea, taking over 2h longer.
Odds & ends this month
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Caledonian Sleeper opened its own lounge on platform 1 at London Euston, available to passengers in Club, Caledonian Double and accessible rooms. Until now, sleeper passengers had to use the Avanti West Coast first class lounge. I visited it a couple of days later courtesy of Caledonian Sleeper, photos are now on the Cal Sleeper page.
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The Gotthard Base Tunnel is likely to remain partially closed beyond January 2024, which was the timeframe originally stated. Many/most trains could continue being diverted over the old Gotthard route until spring or summer 2024. A bonus, in some ways!
October 2023
Jakarta-Bandung high-speed line opens
High-speed trains called (wait for it) Whoosh now link Halim (on the outskirts of Jakarta) with Tellaguar on the outskirts of Bandung in 46 minutes at up to 350 km/h (217 mph), the fastest trains in the world. However, as a taxi from Jakarta to Halim takes 48 minutes and a taxi into Bandung 52 minutes, the overall journey isn't that much faster than the classic 3 hour trip between city centre stations! See the Indonesia page.
New London-Paris operator to compete with Eurostar
News of the month, to put it mildly, is that new startup operator Evolyn plans to run London-Paris trains from 2025 in competition with Eurostar. See www.railwaygazette.com/high-speed/evolyn-to-launch-paris-london-trains-in-competition-with-eurostar/65100.article. It has since turned out that new trains have not been bought, only preliminary work connected with them has been agreed. There is virtually nil chance they'll start by 2025, that timeframe is far too ambitious with new trains to gain approval.
Paris-Turin-Milan line to be blocked until summer 2024
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On 28 August, a huge landslide blocked the Paris-Modane-Turin-Milan line in the Maurienne valley in the French Alps. Initially, it was thought the blockage would last several days, we then heard 'until November'. It now seems the line will not be rebuilt until summer 2024. Paris-Milan TGVs & Frecciarossas are cancelled until further notice. See the landslide on video.
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Alternative routes: I have now uploaded a page explaining the alternative trains between Paris & Milan via Switzerland.
Timetable changes from 10 December 2023
The annual timetable change is due on 10 December, and it's time to start a running summary of the expected changes, positive and negative:
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New Nightjet sleeper train routes will start, Brussels-Berlin & Paris-Berlin, initially 3 times per week, becoming daily in October 2024.
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New generation Nightjet trains will go into service on Hamburg-Vienna and Hamburg-Munich/Innsbruck, with Vienna-Venice, Stuttgart-Venice, Vienna-Rome, Munich-Rome to follow in October 2024. The new trains release the necessary conventional cars to add the new routes above.
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Brussels-Vienna Nightjet sleeper will be rerouted to serve Munich Ost and Salzburg, combined with the train from Paris. To become daily in October 2024.
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In April 2024, the first new-generation railjet trains with all-new interiors will replace the old locomotive-hauled EuroCity cars on the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona-Bologna/Venice Brenner Pass route, with more to follow by October.
-
A second direct Vienna-Berlin ICE with be added leaving Vienna at 06:13 (the current one leaves at 10:13), and both Vienna-Berlin ICEs will extend to Hamburg. Together with the Vienna-Prague-Berlin railjet and the Vienna-Berlin Nightjet, there are four direct trains between Vienna and Berlin when a few years ago there were, for a while, none.
-
The direct Frankfurt-Milan EuroCity train will switch from an Astoro to a new Giruno train and will be routed via the Gotthard in both directions (at present it runs via the Gotthard in one direction and the Lötschberg in the other).
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The Berlin-Vienna Nightjet & Berlin-Budapest sleeper will be rerouted via Dresden & Prague rather than Poland.
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Warsaw-Vienna sleeper Chopin to be extended beyond Vienna to Linz, Salzburg & Munich (but westbound, will then serve Vienna at an unholy 04:49).
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A welcome second Vienna-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Vienna at 16:10, arriving Krakow 21:34. It makes Zurich to Krakow (for example) possible in a single day, with one robust change in Vienna.
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An equally welcome second Berlin-Krakow EuroCity train will be introduced, leaving Berlin at 16:52, arriving Krakow 23:54. Brussels to Krakow and Amsterdam to Krakow become possible in a single day. Which also means you can leave London on any evening Eurostar, stay overnight in Brussels and reach Krakow the next day, a useful option.
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Iryo will run 2 direct trains per day between Barcelona and Cordoba, Seville, in competition with Renfe's two daily existing trains, doubling the service on this route.
Odds & ends this month
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The foreigners reservation office at Cairo main station now finally takes credit cards.
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It's reported that Eurostar has now officially signed up to the AJC, Agreement for Journey Continuation, which has to be good news for passengers with missed connections.
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I've overhauled an updated the Turin, Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome & Naples station pages following a recent trip. I've also completely overhauled the Frecciarossa, Italo pages and added Trenitalia Intercity and Intercity Notte pages.
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The Glacier Express page has been rewritten with new photos of a recent journey and a new video added.
September 2023
Paris-Turin-Milan line still blocked, until November or longer
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On 28 August, a huge landslide blocked the Paris-Modane-Turin-Milan line in the Maurienne valley in the French Alps. Initially, it was thought the blockage would last several days, it could now be up to 2 months with rumours of much longer. Paris-Milan TGVs & Frecciarossas are cancelled until further notice. See the landslide on video.
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Alternative routes: Paris-Geneva then Geneva-Milan; Paris-Basel then Basel-Milan; Paris-Zurich then Zurich-Milan (the Gotthard Base Tunnel is blocked by a freight train derailment until January 2024 so Zurich-Milan trains are taking an extra hour, diverted over the old scenic Gotthard line). You could also go Paris-Nice-Ventimiglia-Genoa.
Change at the border for Zagreb
From this month until further notice, the Vienna-Zagreb EuroCity train Croatia is no longer direct, a cross-platform change is required at Villach. The reason appears to be chronic late running coming westbound from Croatia, ÖBB has decided to split the train in two so as not to delay the Austrian part. Not ideal for through passengers, of course! I have amended key pages, but not every place where the Croatia is mentioned.
25% off European Sleeper, exclusive to seat61...
I'm delighted to offer seat61 visitors an exclusive 25% discount on the European Sleeper between Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Amsterdam and Berlin: If you click the links to www.europeansleeper.eu and book tickets between 14 September & 15 October for travel between 21 September & 21 December, 25% will be knocked off the fare at the checkout stage before you pay.
An opportunity to visit Berlin: There's Oktoberfest in Berlin, 15 September–28 October; Festival of Lights, 6-15 October; Autumn Carnival 22 September–16 October. Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag...
Berlin-Stockholm becomes daily all year
The SJ EuroNight sleeper train from Hamburg to Stockholm, introduced in September 2022, has been a great success, often leaving fully-booked. It was extended to/from Berlin over the summer, and will now run to/from Berlin all year round - which also means it now uses Hamburg Hbf (not Altona) all year round. I have updated all relevant pages accordingly. See www.railjournal.com/passenger/main-line/sjs-stockholm-berlin-overnight-service-goes-year-round.
Timetable changes from 10 December 2023
The annual timetable change is due on 10 December, and it's time to start a running summary of the expected changes, positive and negative:
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New Nightjet sleeper train routes will start, Brussels-Berlin & Paris-Berlin, initially 3 times per week, becoming daily in October 2024.
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New generation Nightjet trains will go into service on Stuttgart-Venice, Vienna-Venice and Hamburg-Vienna, with Vienna-Rome, Munich-Rome to follow in October 2024. The new trains release the necessary conventional cars to add the new routes above.
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Brussels-Vienna Nightjet sleeper will be rerouted to serve Munich Ost and Salzburg, combined with the train from Paris. Likely to become daily in October 2024.
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Swish new-generation railjet trains with all-new interiors will replace the old locomotive-hauled EuroCity cars on the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona-Bologna/Venice Brenner Pass route.
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A second direct Vienna-Berlin ICE with be added leaving Vienna at 06:13 (the current one leaves at 10:13), and both Vienna-Berlin ICEs will extend to Hamburg. Together with the Vienna-Prague-Berlin railjet and the Vienna-Berlin Nightjet, there are four direct trains between Vienna and Berlin when a few years ago there were, for a while, none.
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The direct Frankfurt-Milan EuroCity train will switch from an Astoro to a new Giruno train and will be routed via the Gotthard in both directions (at present it runs via the Gotthard in one direction and the Lötschberg in the other).
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Berlin-Vienna Nightjet will be rerouted via Prague rather than Poland.
August 2023
Paris-Turin-Milan line blocked for several weeks
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On 28 August, a huge landslide blocked the Paris-Modane-Turin-Milan line in the Maurienne valley in the French Alps. Initially, it was thought the blockage would last several days, it could now be up to 2 months. Paris-Milan TGVs and Frecciarossas are cancelled until further notice. See the landslide on video.
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Alternative routes: Paris-Geneva then Geneva-Milan; Paris-Basel then Basel-Milan; Paris-Zurich then Zurich-Milan (the Gotthard Base Tunnel is blocked by a freight train derailment until January 2024 so Zurich-Milan trains are taking an extra hour, diverted over the old scenic Gotthard line). You could also go Paris-Nice-Ventimiglia-Genoa.
Holland Norway Line goes into administration
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Unfortunately, the relatively new Holland Norway Lines ferry company has gone into administration, with Emden to Kristiansand ferry service suspended. I have deleted that option from the Amsterdam and Oslo pages.
Eurostar ski train winter 2023/24
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Eurostar have announced their ski train for this coming winter. Unlike previous years, it will consist of a Eurostar from London to Lille then a Eurostar (formerly Thalys) from Lille to Moutiers, Aime-La-Plagne and Bourg-St-Maurice on winter Saturdays, returning on Sundays, see the Eurostar ski page for details.
Gotthard Base Tunnel blocked
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A freight train has derailed inside the Gotthard Base Tunnel and ripped up several kilometres of track. Passenger trains are being diverted over the old scenic Gotthard line, and this may have to continue until January 2024. If you're travelling between Zurich & Milan, check your trains online.
Trenitalia orders new sleeper trains
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Trenitalia has ordered new sleeping-cars and couchettes for its Intercity Notte domestic night trains, see www.railtech.com/rolling-stock/2023/08/10/trenitalia-awards-night-train-coaches-order-to-skoda/. The couchettes will have 4 berths as now, the sleeping-cars will each have 8 compartments, all with shower & toilet en suite. 2 compartments will feature a double bed.
Nightjet expansion plans
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ÖBB have not officially announced anything, but it's looking as if the first new-generation Nightjets may enter service Vienna/Munich to Venice from mid-November.
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A new Paris-Berlin Nightjet train should start 3 times a week in mid-December 2023, using conventional stock released by the new trains. Paris-Vienna and Paris-Berlin should then become daily from March 2024. Vienna/Innsbruck-Hamburg may get the new-generation trains in March 2024. Munich/Vienna-Rome should get the new trains in late 2024. All subject to confirmation!
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And European Sleeper, as we already know, should extend their Brussels-Berlin sleeper to Prague from March 2024.
Odds & end this month
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Thanks to correspondent Matias Lq, I have added Stockholm-Vilnius, Copenhagen-Vilnius and Vilnius-Stockholm/Copenhagen routes via the overnight Karlshamn-Klaipeda ferry. This is a lot cheaper and easier than trying to go via Warsaw or via Tallinn!
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In Egypt, Ernst (Watania Sleeping trains) has lost the contract to run the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper trains. From 2 August new operator Abela Trains has taken over. So far, it seems nothing has changed other than the operator. Egypt page updated.
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Bucharest-Istanbul: Trackwork in Bulgaria reportedly means that the direct Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car won't run between 25 September and 3 October, and they may not bother running it for the last few days of its season from 4 to 8 October.
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A freight train derailment inside the Gotthard Base Tunnel is affecting Milan-Zurich trains from 11 August for a week or so.
July 2023
No Eurostar ski train this winter
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Eurostar have said that they won't be running their ski train to the French Alps this winter, not even as a charter train for Travelski. As we know, Brexit has meant increased border checks, meaning reduced capacity at St Pancras, meaning Eurostar have decided to concentrate on the core services. That's the end of that, then.
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Latest update 11 July 2023: Ski operator Travelski now say the do indeed hope to offer a sort of ski train this winter, Eurostar to Lille and connecting train to the French Alps. Out Saturday daytime, back Sunday daytime. Details to be announced later. Ski packages involving this train will be offered at www.uk.travelski.com/ski-package-holidays.
Odds & end this month
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News from Belgrade: Tram & bus tickets can no longer be paid on board, I've added instructions for using the Belgrade Plus app to buy tickets.
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Belmond's luxury Eastern & Oriental Express did not resume this year after all, it will resume in February 2024, but only for tours wholly within Malaysia. It will not run the whole Singapore-Bangkok route in 2024, unless something can be sorted out with the State Railways of Thailand.
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The official Interrail/Eurail reservations service has started doing Spanish train reservations for passholders, which is great news. It used to be impossible for passholders to reserve trains in Spain online, anywhere. It initially only works with certain AVE, Alvia and EuroMed routes, but it's a great step forward and more will be added in due course.
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Stena Line has altered Fishguard-Rosslare ferry timings from July. In the Rosslare to London direction, the evening ferry now arrives too late for the last train to anywhere, so there's now no overnight service in that direction. Irish Rail have also worsened connections at Rosslare. Details here.
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I've added journeys from the UK to Berlin, Prague, Warsaw & Krakow using the Harwich-Hoek daytime crossing connecting nicely with the European Sleeper Rotterdam-Berlin (with some suggestions for dinner near Rotterdam Centraal before the sleeper, too!). With Eurostar often now expensive, offering a range of cheaper ferry alternatives becomes more important.
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You can now make Norwegian Interrail/Eurail reservations online, at entur.no. The Interrail/Eurail reservations page has been updated.
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You can now make seat reservations to go with a Japan Rail Pass using self-service ticket machines at stations, Japan page updated.
June 2023
Renfe to relaunch Spain-France AVEs in July.
In December last year, SNCF (French Railways) pulled the plug on the 9-year Renfe-SNCF cooperation. SNCF has continued to operate 2 Paris-Barcelona TGVs on its own, entering Spain without Renfe involvement, but Renfe (Spanish Railways) was caught unawares and had no choice but to cancel its Barcelona-Lyon and Madrid-Barcelona-Avignon-Marseille AVEs which it operated into France with SNCF help. After getting a licence for France and training its own crews, Renfe will resume Barcelona-Lyon AVEs from 13 July on Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon, and Madrid-Barcelona-Marseille AVEs from 28 July, also on Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon. Both should become daily from September. Fares start at €29, lower for some shorter routes. Naturally, these AVEs will no longer be bookable as SNCF-Connect.com just as the Paris-Barcelona TGVs are no longer bookable at Renfe.com - more fragmentation! But they'll be bookable through Thetrainline and Raileurope.com.
New old trains for Hamburg-Copenhagen...
From 16 June, delayed from April, ex-German Railways intercity cars replaced the Danish IC3s on Hamburg-Copenhagen trains. It means a significant and much-needed increase in capacity on that route, and it means an electric locomotive replaces diesel engines running 'under the wires', two worthwhile improvements. These second-hand IC cars are only needed until brand new trains built by Talgo are delivered to DSB (Danish Railways).
Odds & end this month
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In Spain, as of mid-June, dogs up to 40 Kg can finally be taken on certain AVE trains between Madrid and Barcelona, Malaga, Alicante, Valencia. Normal SNCF (French railways) dog arrangements also now apply to the Paris-Barcelona TGVs as they are purely run by SNCF, previously only dogs under 10Kg were carried beyond Perpignan into Spain. Furthermore, dogs can now be added to the booking at sncf-connect.com, although not at other retailer sites. I have updated the Dogs by train page accordingly.
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In Germany, seat reservation is no longer free with the purchase of a 1st class ticket as of this month. I have updated the UK-Germany and Train travel in Germany pages, I hope there are no mentions elsewhere!
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The new Brussels/Amsterdam-Berlin European Sleeper will accept Interrail & Eurail passes from 1 July, the relevant pages have been updated.
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The direct Milan-Sicily sleeper has reverted to it's original route via Genoa & Pisa rather than Bologna, Trains to Sicily page updated.
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Agency Bookaway can now arrange train tickets for Egypt (thank goodness someone can!), Egypt page updated.
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Transfer bus arrangements between Dublin Ferryport and Dublin city centre have changed for the better, with the Nolan Coaches Stena Line transfer bus once more extending to Connolly and Heuston stations.. The Irish Ferries bus now starts from Heuston to connect with the morning sailing, but doesn't seem to go there (only as far as the city centre) when connecting off the evening Irish Ferries arrival.
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In Spain, Renfe has tweaked the direct AVE trains between Barcelona and Malaga, Granada, Cordoba & Seville. Notably, the Barcelona-Granada/Malaga train is now morning not afternoon, and afternoon not morning eastbound. I have made the necessary revisions.
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DFDS have played around with Newhaven-Dieppe sailing times, I've tweaked the timetable, but it's nailing jelly to the wall.
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The departure time from Istanbul Halkali to Sofia/Bucharest has been changed again, from 20:45 to 20:00, I have updated both the UK-Turkey page and Bucharest/Sofia-Istanbul page.
May 2023
The Deutschland Ticket is go...
Germany's new €49-per-month commuter ticket covering regional trains across Germany went live from 1 May. You can use it for a month as a railpass if you like, I have now researched the options for buying one for just 1 month as a non-German, info and advice are now on the Deutschlandticket section on the Train travel in Germany page.
Odds & end this month
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Since last year, a Canadian government safety order has meant a barrier vehicle had to travel at the rear of the Toronto-Vancouver Canadian, obstructing the rearward view from the bullet lounge in the Park car. This is due to crashworthiness concerns. It seems that VIA Rail have satisfactorily demonstrated that there is no major issue in this respect and the order has now been revoked. Rearward views are now reinstated!
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The Munich-Venice/Zagreb/Budapest sleeper has been extended to start in Stuttgart since the December timetable change. It was supposed to continue serving Munich Hbf (the main station in Munich, which is a terminus), achieving the reversal using a locomotive at each end. Unfortunately, technical issues meant that this train would 'temporarily' by-pass Munich Hbf and only call at the secondary Munich Ost, but the situation has dragged on and data now shows this train continuing to serve Munich Ost for the rest of the year.
So I have given up waiting for 'normal' service to start and have re-written all relevant pages to show this train calling at Munich Ost rather than Munich Hbf, suggesting (if necessary) people can transfer between Munich Ost & Munich Hbf by frequent S-Bahn train.
However, to avoid this extra transfer, I have re-written many journeys such as Amsterdam, Brussels or Hamburg to/from Venice, Budapest or Zagreb to recommend joining the sleeper train at Stuttgart rather than Munich. Even if this increases journey time slightly, it avoids the inter-station transfer in Munich, it avoids future uncertainty about which station the train will leave from in Munich and it means you can board your sleeper at 20:29 in Stuttgart rather than waiting up to board it close to midnight in Munich.
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Early Bird advance-purchase fares between NL and BE currently allow you to take any train that day, just like full-price tickets. But from 11 June 2023, they will commit you to a specific departure. I have updated the relevant pages.
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The Armenian Railways website is now available in English and will now sell tickets for the Tbilisi-Yerevan train in either direction, as an e-ticket. A great improvement, Georgia/Armenia page updated.
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The Eurail & Interrail reservation fee for Italian Frecciarossa, Frecciargento & Frecciabianca trains increases from €10 to €13 from June, relevant pages already updated.
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Bernina Express for €29.90 (or €39.90 1st class). DB is once again selling tickets from Germany to Tirano that you can buy to travel between Zurich and Tirano from just €29.90. I have reinstated the Clever way to buy tickets section on the Bernina Express page.
April 2023
Ankara-Sivas YHT high-speed trains start
Three high-speed YHT trains now link Ankara with Sivas on a new line that also dramatically shortens the distance. As a result, a 10-hour journey by classic train is cut to 2h33. The line from Sivas to Samsun has also reopened, with a daily train restored after over 7 years.
Japan Rail Passes price increase
It's reported that Japan Rail Passes will increase in cost significantly from October 2023, with all passes increasing by a whopping 68%, for example from ¥29,000 to ¥50,000 for a 7-day pass. The price increase will probably drive many tourists to using flights or buses instead of trains. I have added a paragraph to the Japan Rail Pass section on the Japan page.
Kunming to Vientiane starts 13 April...
With China slowly opening up post-pandemic, a daily international train started between Kunming & Vientiane on the Laos-China Railway on 13 April, see the Laos page.
Odds & ends this month
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ICE trains between the Netherlands and Germany will be 'reservation compulsory' from 17 June to 18 August 2023, for the first time. I have amended the Germany and Netherlands section of the Interrail/Eurail reservations page accordingly.
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In Vietnam, the local bus from Danang to Hoi An seems to have been re-routed away from the city centre during the pandemic and not replaced. So incredibly, there seems to be no bus making to 30km run between major city Danang and major tourist attraction Hoi An at the moment. I have added a link to arrange taxis or transfers online.
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The weekly summer-only ferry service from mainland Portugal to Madeira appears to have been a victim of the pandemic. There now seem to be no ferries between Europe and Madeira.
March 2023
Venice Simplon Orient Express cut back in 2024?
It seems 2023 will be the last season in which VSOE passengers leave London by British Pullman, get ferried through the Channel Tunnel by road coach and board the Continental train at Calais. From 2024, the VSOE will only operate between Paris Gare de l'Est and Venice, with connections to/from London provided by Eurostar. This is due to increasing unreliability of the continental train in northern France, and (I believe) ongoing problems with post-Brexit border checks affecting the timekeeping of the bus through the Tunnel. A great shame. So catch it in 2023 if you can, see the Venice Simplon Orient Express page.
End of the Holland-Norway ferry...
The relatively new Holland-Norway Line ferry running 3 times a week from Eemshaven in the Netherlands to Kristiansand in Norway has had problems with its harbour facilities in Eemshaven. From mid-April to 1 June 2023 it will move temporarily to Cuxhaven in Germany, after which it will move permanently to Emden in Germany. Emden is not far from Eemshaven as the crow flies, but it's across the Ems estuary and a pig to reach by rail, requiring a longish international journey south then north. It will be easier to go to Kiel and take the daily Color Line ferry direct to Oslo. I have removed it from the UK-Norway page, I'm not yet sure whether I will delete this ferry service completely from seat61, as an unnecessary distraction from main routes.
Odds & ends this month
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The replacement of Danish IC3 units on Hamburg-Copenhagen trains in April now looks postponed until June. Former German Intercity carriages hauled by an electric locomotive will then run temporarily until brand new trains being built by Talgo enter service in a few years time.
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The direct high-speed train between Hong Kong and Beijing will resume from 1April.
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SNCF is gradually phasing out the need to validate (compostez) tickets before you board, wording on the Train travel in France page amended accordingly.
February 2023
Eurostar's situation in 2023
Eurostar report that demand for leisure travel is already back to 100% of its pre-pandemic level, whilst business travel has reached 80%-85%. However, Brexit border checks - an extra 15 seconds to stamp each non-EU traveller's passport - has reduced capacity at St Pancras by as much as 30%. As a result, Eurostar are running fewer trains compared to 2019 and they have limited the number of seats sold on some trains to avoid overloading check-in facilities at St Pancras - for example, on some peak departures only 550 seats are being sold on a 900-seat train. Overall, Eurostar say they are providing only 70% of the capacity they provided pre-pandemic. This means they're having to maximise yield from the seats they can sell (in plain English, higher fares) rather than continuing their original strategy of volume & growth.
Eurostar plan to increase the number of passport control lines from 7 to 9, and will convert part of the arrivals hall into additional check-in space. They plan to trial an 'online check-in' later this year, and to automate as much as possible of the new ETIAS (European visa) arrangements when they come in, probably now in 2024. They hope that these measures will restore capacity to what it was before the double disasters of the pandemic and Brexit. Until then, their direct services to Disneyland Paris and to Lyon, Avignon & Marseille will not operate, nor will their trains call at Ebbsfleet or Ashford.
January 2023
Bangkok's new station finally opens
Bangkok's shiny new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central station finally opened on 19 January, and all long-distance trains now start/terminate there instead of the classic Hualamphong station, opened in 1916 and located far more centrally, 7km to the south. I have now updated the Train travel in Thailand page to reflect the change. I have also found that the long-standing Bangkok-Ko Samui combined train+ferry tickets and Bangkok-Phuket/Bangkok-Krabi combined train+bus tickets seem to have disappeared. I have had to re-think & revise the booking arrangements for those journeys.
New Nightjets from December 2023
It's reported unofficially that the 3-per-week Brussels-Vienna Nightjet is set to become daily from the timetable change in December this year, combined with a new daily Nightjet from Brussels to Berlin (this is in addition to European Sleeper 's new Brussels-Berlin train starting in May), so yes, TWO sleeper trains Brussels-Berlin!).
The existing 3-per-week Paris-Vienna Nightjet (which is often fully-booked weeks ahead) is also set to become daily, combined with a new daily Nightjet from Paris to Berlin, swapping portions with the train from Brussels somewhere in Germany, possibly Mannheim (2 origins & 2 destinations forming an X).
Of course, all this is all predicated on ÖBB's new generation Nightjets entering service between Vienna/Munich & Italy as scheduled, releasing the necessary Comfortline sleeping-cars & couchette cars for these new & expanded trains. ÖBB won't confirm all this officially until later this year
AVE trains Barcelona-Lyon/Marseille to resume in 2023
It now seems likely that Renfe will resume the direct AVE services between Barcelona & Lyon and between Barcelona, Avignon & Marseille during 2023, although no firm start date has been given. They have obtained a safety certificate and will start crew training in January. It's not clear if the schedule will be the same as previously. These trains were withdrawn at the timetable change on 11 December 2022 after Renfe & SNCF ended their 9-year cross-border co-operation agreement. SNCF has continued running the two daily Paris-Barcelona TGVs without Renfe's help, but Renfe had been unable to run the AVEs without SNCF's help.
Odds & ends this month
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In Kenya, the SGR is going from cash but not cards to cashless: Only M-Pesa, debit or credit cards can be used to pay as from 1 February on the Nairobi-Mombasa route.
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Eurostar say they finally intend to resume taking bikes, on a few selected trains, from 25 January 2023. I have updated the, erm, update on the bikes page.
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I've now confirmed that the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper only has 6-berth couchettes, not (like just about every other sleeper train in Europe) 4-berth. Have amended (I think) all instances on seat61. Have also flagged this train's diversion from Hamburg Altona to Hamburg Hbf from 31 March in all instances where it appears (I think!).
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The train travel in Cuba page is now up to date, after someone kindly sent me a full timetable with 2023 departure dates.
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Train service between Hong Kong and mainland China has been suspended since 2020 due to Covid-19, but resumed from 15 January.
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The transfer buses between Dublin Port & Dublin city centre now go to/from George's Quay (bus stop 135111) rather than Connolly station. This has been the case for a while, but it was unclear whether this (rather strange) change was permanent or just temporary, I have now accepted that it's permanent.
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The first new Talgo trains have entered service on a handful of Alexandria-Cairo departures. I now mention these trains, and show prices for them, but do not yet have either timings (the ENR website has been down for a few weeks) or photos.
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SNCF allow you to pre-order drinks & snacks to your seat on French Intercités and Intercités de nuit couchette trains. I've added a line about this to the relevant sections.
December 2022
European sleeper announces start date...
Open-access start-up European Sleeper have announced the date for their inaugural Brussels/Antwerp/Rotterdam/Amsterdam to Berlin sleeper train: 25 May 2023. Initially running 3 times a week, it'll have easy connections from London by Eurostar, too. I have added a page with all the details we currently know, London/Brussels/Amsterdam to Berlin by European Sleeper. Extension to Dresden & Prague is planned from December 2023.
Egypt decides to charge foreigners more...
The Egyptian government has decided to charge non-Egyptians 300%-400% more for train tickets as from 15 December 2022. Instead of buying the same tickets at the same prices as anyone else, foreigners must now go to the special foreigners booking office at Cairo station and pay $20 for a ticket to Alexandria instead of the equivalent of $5, and up to $45 for a ticket to Luxor. Details are now on the Egypt page.
Changes from this year's 11 December timetable change...
As every year, I will compile a list of significant known or expected changes to train services with the Europe-wide timetable change on 11 December. So far:
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A new daily service will operate between Warsaw and Vilnius, with one easy changes at Mockava. I have added details to the Warsaw-Vilnius page.
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The sleeper train between Munich & Budapest/Venice/Zagreb will be extended to Stuttgart. That means simpler & easier connections to/from Paris 7 days a week by direct TGV with no need to change in both Munich & Stuttgart. I have added the new timings and connections on all relevant pages.
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The Vienna/Munich-Milan Nightjet is extended to Genoa, and will use Milan Rogoredo instead of Milan Porta Garibaldi. I have added a Milan Rogoredo station page in readiness. It means Nice-Vienna connections can be made at Genoa rather than in Milan, I have revised these.
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New Zurich-Prague sleeper: Routed via Basel, Leipzig and Dresden, this new sleeper is in addition to the existing through sleeping-car from Zurich to Prague running via Innsbruck & Linz. It'll have an 09:35 arrival in Prague rather than 10:57, and it'll have couchettes as well as sleeping-car. A better option for travellers from Paris & London to Prague, I've now added information for this new option to relevant pages.
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There will be an additional Prague-Krakow connection, using 2nd class through coaches attached to the early-morning Prague-Warsaw EuroCity Silesia from Prague. Not so long ago I said that tourist honeypot Krakow was an under-served opportunity for European rail - then a Prague-Krakow EuroCity train Cracovia started up, then a Vienna-Krakow day train, then a Budapest-Krakow day train and now a second Prague-Krakow train. At least I know a good opportunity when I see one! I have now added this to the Prague-Krakow page.
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A much-improved Stockholm-Oslo service will operate, up to 5 trains each way per day, with an hour cut from the present journey time. Three of these will be modern SJ3000 trains. I have updated the Oslo-Stockholm & Stockholm-Oslo sections accordingly.
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The Stuttgart/Munich-Zagreb sleeper will run combined with the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper at its eastern end, meaning arrival in Zagreb at 10:39 instead of 08:32 eastbound, and departure at 19:40 instead of after 21:00 westbound.
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A direct regional express (two at weekends) will run between Vienna Franz-Josefs Bahnhof and Prague via Gmünd, a line which used to be used by express trains (including, from 1957, the famous Vienna-Prague-Berlin Vindobona) but which hasn't had direct trains for years. I can't help feeling that a direct Vienna-Cesky Krumlov train is a missed opportunity, CK being the second most-visited city in the Czech Republic after Prague. Maybe next time?
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Renfe & SNCF have fallen out of love, much as SNCF & Trenitalia did on Paris-Italy. SNCF will operate 2 Paris-Barcelona TGVs all year with a 3rd in summer, see the timetable here. Renfe will no longer operate its Barcelona-Lyon and Madrid-Barcelona-Marseille AVEs. This basically means just 2 trains a day on a €10bn high-speed line Perpignan-Barcelona. It also means routing people via Paris even between (say) Italy and Spain, as travel across the south of France means chopping & changing too many times.
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Mons-Aulnoye cross-border trains will be discontinued. They were only reintroduced in 2018, but with little publicity, usage has not met expectations and they are withdrawn again. This offered an affordable walk-up service between Brussels & Paris, an alternative to the Eurostar high-speed trains. However, Charleroi to Maubeuge is being increased to 9 per day, some of which will allow Brussels-Charleroi-Maubeuge-Paris journeys. Ideal for Interrailers trying to avoid Eurostar reservations & fees, who don't mind a much slower journey. I have now added details in the Paris-Brussels and Brussels-Paris sections on the Trains from Paris and Trains from Brussels pages.
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Open-access operator Westbahn will extend several of its Vienna-Salzburg double-deck trains to Innsbruck, in competition with ÖBB's railjets.
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The 07:39 Geneva-Venice will terminate at Milan. The 05:39 (perfectly timed for tourists, not) is extended to Venice in its place. The 06:33 Zurich-Venice will terminate at Milan, the 08:33 is extended to Venice in its pace.
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The 06:17 Berlin-Prague-Vienna railjet Vindobona will be discontinued between Berlin & Prague, leaving just the ICE Berolina as a direct Berlin-Vienna daytime train. The 07:16 Berlin-Prague will now run as normal.
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The summer-only Gradec between Budapest & Zagreb will not run in 2023, it seems, leaving just 1 train per day on this route.
Odds & ends this month...
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The Romanian bar-bistro car until now attached to the Dacia Express in Romania has been withdrawn and replaced with a bar car. This means no more proper meals such as schnitzel or steak and chips, just drinks & snacks. A great shame. I have amended all the relevant pages.
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It seems that from 11 June to 10 September 2023, trackwork on the line between Tirano & Milan means buses will temporarily replace trains between Tirano & Sondrio, I've added a note to the Bernina Express page.
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The Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper run by SJ should finally run as intended with 2 sleeping-cars, 2 couchette cars and 1 seats car from 11 December. Unfortunately, the ability to book this train through ÖBB at oebb.at will cease, the only booking method from 11 December will be sj.se. I have revised the booking instructions on relevant pages.
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From 11 December, the Milan-Catania-Siracuse sleeper will gain an Excelsior sleeping-car with some compartments with en suite shower & toilet. One of the two Rome-Catania-Siracuse sleepers will also have Excelsiors, but there'll be no Excelsiors to Palermo.
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I have added details of the new Regiojet service linking Prague & Krakow with Lviv & Kyiv, to the Trains from Prague, Trains from Krakow & Trains from Kyiv/Lviv pages, also to the Prague-Krakow page. It's a seamlessly-online-bookable combo of a Regiojet train Prague-Krakow-Przemysl and a UZ connecting train Przemysl-Lviv-Kyiv. This sort of integration of a 2-train 2-operator combo is an example others should copy!
November 2022
Dover-Calais & foot passengers from January...
Only one company took foot passengers on the once-important Dover-Calais route, P&O. It seems they will now stop taking foot passengers from January 2023. It's not clear whether this is permanent or temporary, but it's clear Dover is a disaster area for ferry travel, you should choose another ferry route, such as Newhaven-Dieppe, even if you live in Kent! Update: It now seems foot passengers will continue to be carried, although as before, only on designated sailings (3 per day). I am unclear whether this was a storm in a teacup caused by foot passenger places not being loaded for 2023, or a decision which was rescinded.
Changes expected in this year's December timetable change...
As every year, I will compile a list of significant known or expected changes to train services with the Europe-wide timetable change on 11 December. So far:
-
A new daily service will operate between Warsaw and Vilnius, with one easy changes at Mockava. I have added details to the Warsaw-Vilnius page.
-
The sleeper train between Munich & Budapest/Venice/Zagreb will be extended to Stuttgart. That means simpler & easier connections to/from Paris 7 days a week by direct TGV with no need to change in both Munich & Stuttgart. I have added the new timings and connections on all relevant pages.
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The Vienna/Munich-Milan Nightjet is extended to Genoa, and will use Milan Rogoredo instead of Milan Porta Garibaldi. I have added a Milan Rogoredo station page in readiness.
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New Zurich-Prague sleeper: Routed via Basel, Leipzig and Dresden, this new sleeper is in addition to the existing through sleeping-car from Zurich to Prague running via Innsbruck & Linz. It'll have an 09:35 arrival in Prague rather than 10:57, and it'll have couchettes as well as sleeping-car. A better option for travellers from Paris & London to Prague, I've now added information for this new option to relevant pages.
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There will be an additional Prague-Krakow connection, using 2nd class through coaches attached to the early-morning Prague-Warsaw EuroCity Silesia from Prague. Not so long ago I said that tourist honeypot Krakow was an under-served opportunity for European rail - then a Prague-Krakow EuroCity train Cracovia started up, then a Vienna-Krakow day train, then a Budapest-Krakow day train and now a second Prague-Krakow train. At least I know a good opportunity when I see one! I have now added this to the Prague-Krakow page.
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A much-improved Stockholm-Oslo service will operate, up to 5 trains each way per day, with an hour cut from the present journey time. Three of these will be modern SJ3000 trains. I have updated the Oslo-Stockholm & Stockholm-Oslo sections accordingly.
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The Stuttgart/Munich-Zagreb sleeper will run combined with the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper at its eastern end, meaning arrival in Zagreb at 10:39 instead of 08:32 eastbound, and departure at 19:40 instead of after 21:00 westbound.
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A direct regional express (two at weekends) will run between Vienna Franz-Josefs Bahnhof and Prague via Gmünd, a line which used to be used by express trains (including, from 1957, the famous Vienna-Prague-Berlin Vindobona) but which hasn't had direct trains for years. I can't help feeling that a direct Vienna-Cesky Krumlov train is a missed opportunity, CK being the second most-visited city in the Czech Republic after Prague. Maybe next time?
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Renfe & SNCF have fallen out of love, much as SNCF & Trenitalia did on Paris-Italy. SNCF will operate 2 Paris-Barcelona TGVs all year with a 3rd in summer, see the timetable here. Renfe will no longer operate its Barcelona-Lyon and Madrid-Barcelona-Marseille AVEs. This basically means just 2 trains a day on a €10bn high-speed line Perpignan-Barcelona. It also means routing people via Paris even between (say) Italy and Spain, as travel across the south of France means chopping & changing too many times.
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Mons-Aulnoye cross-border trains will be discontinued. They were only reintroduced in 2018, but with little publicity, usage has not met expectations and they are withdrawn again. This offered an affordable walk-up service between Brussels & Paris, an alternative to the Thalys high-speed trains. However, Charleroi to Maubeuge is being increased to 9 per day, some of which will allow Brussels-Charleroi-Maubeuge-Paris journeys. Ideal for Interrailers trying to avoid Thalys reservations and fees, who don't mind a much slower journey. I have now added details in the Paris-Brussels and Brussels-Paris sections on the Trains from Paris and Trains from Brussels pages.
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Open-access operator Westbahn will extend several of its Vienna-Salzburg double-deck trains to Innsbruck, in competition with ÖBB's railjets.
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The 07:39 Geneva-Venice will terminate at Milan. The 05:39 (perfectly timed for tourists, not) is extended to Venice in its place. The 06:33 Zurich-Venice will terminate at Milan, the 08:33 is extended to Venice in its pace.
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The 06:17 Berlin-Prague-Vienna railjet Vindobona will be discontinued between Berlin & Prague, leaving just the ICE Berolina as a direct Berlin-Vienna daytime train. The 07:16 Berlin-Prague will now run as normal.
Odds & ends this month...
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A new overnight ferry service has started several times a week between Izmir in Turkey and Thessaloniki in Greece, from where you can take a fast train to Athens. I have added this to the relevant pages.
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The Istanbul to Sofia sleeper will not change from leaving Halkali (Istanbul) at 20:45 to leaving at 22:40 on 30 October as planned, instead it'll continue to leave at 20:45. UK-Turkey, Sofia-Istanbul and Trains from Istanbul pages all updated.
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The Smyril Line ferry from Denmark to Iceland via the Faroe Islands will only operate between Denmark & the Faroe Islands from November 2022 until March 2023, allegedly due to the high cost of fuel.
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The Toronto-Vancouver Canadian has to have a barrier vehicle behind its famous Park car, which doesn't do much for the rearward view from the bullet lounge. This is required by the safety authority until minor structural faults detected in some of VIA Rail's 1955 cars have been investigated and (if necessary) repaired and VIA Rail have demonstrated that there is no rear-end crashworthiness issue. I've put a warning in the Park car section on the Canadian page.
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A new sleeper train starts in November between Kyiv and Chisinau in Moldova. I've added this to the Trains from Kyiv page.
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The Bucharest-Chisinau sleeper train, currently 3 times per week, is apparently due to return to daily operation from the timetable change on 11 December, I have added a note to the Trains from Bucharest page.
October 2022
Odds & ends this month...
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The Zurich-Prague sleeper, formerly only bookable at the Czech Railways site cd.cz, is now bookable at the Austrian Railways site oebb.at although with higher prices. This means it ought to be bookable on Thetrainline & Raileurope which connect to ÖBB. But no, it appears on Thetrainline but not Raileurope, but booking at Thetrainline fails on every test I have done. Relevant pages updated with tip to use oebb.at if you have no joy with cd.cz for this train.
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DFDS have reinstated the 15:45 Newcastle station to ferry terminal bus. This had been cut during the pandemic, leaving just the earlier 14:45.
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The SJ EuroNight between Hamburg & Stockholm is now likely to get sleeping-cars from mid-November.
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There have been tests of the tram between Trieste and Villa Opicina on the Slovenian border. This wonderful historic tram has been out of action since 2016, it's now rumoured to return to service in 2023. But after so many rumours since 2016, I'll believe it when I see it!
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State Railways of Thailand used to have a 'proper' phone number accessible from outside Thailand, but it's now unobtainable. The 1690 number is useless unless you're already in Thailand. Thailand page updated.
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Online booking from Yerevan to Tbilisi is now possible at the Armenian Railways website, in Russian with a little help from Google translate. Armenia section updated.
September 2022
Iryo to launch Madrid-Barcelona trains from 25 November...
A consortium of Air Nostrum & Trenitalia called Ilsa will launch train service between Barcelona & Madrid from 25 November, in competition with Renfe's AVE, Avlo & Ouigo. Branded Iryo, it will use a version of Trenitalia's Frecciarossa 1000. Tickets on sale from 18 September at iryo.eu. If you ride the new service and get photos, please let me know!
Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train launched on 1 September...
On 1 September, the first SJ EuroNight sleeper train ran from Hamburg Altona to Stockholm Central, opening up easy travel between all of western Europe and Stockholm - with connections for Helsinki. I was on board the inaugural train. The launch was not without teething problems, the AB32 sleeping-cars are still not ready for the new service, some MUn type sleeping-cars were available but they (and the seats cars) were denied certification by the Danish authorities. The train has therefore started with just couchettes, with a sleeping-car to be added later. However, the staff were great, couchettes clean and comfy, and the inaugural train reached the Swedish capital right on time.
New Nightjet sleeping-cars shown to press...
The first cars for 33 new ÖBB Nightjet sleeper trains were shown to the press on 6 September at the Siemens factory in Vienna. I was delighted to be invited. The cars on show were a sleeping-car with 9 standard 12-bed compartments all with shower & toilet plus one deluxe compartment with extra space, and a couchette car with 3 conventional 4-berth compartments and 28 innovative 'minisuites', a train version of a Japanese capsule hotel. The first deployment will be autumn 2023 between Vienna/Munich and Italy, where new Italian fire regulations make the new cars necessary.
Changes expected in this year's December timetable change...
As every year, I will compile a list of significant known or expected changes to train services with the Europe-wide timetable change on 11 December. So far:
-
A new daily service will operate between Warsaw and Vilnius, albeit with changes at Mockava & Kaunas.
-
Renfe & SNCF have fallen out of love, much as SNCF & Trenitalia did on Paris-Italy. SNCF will operate 2 Paris-Barcelona TGVs all year with a 3rd in summer. Renfe will no longer operate its Barcelona-Lyon and Madrid-Barcelona-Marseille AVEs. This basically means just 2 trains a day on a €10bn high-speed line Perpignan-Barcelona. It also means routing people via Paris even between (say) Italy and Spain, as travel across the south of France means chopping & changing too many times.
-
Mons-Aulnoye cross-border trains will be discontinued. They were only reintroduced in 2018, but with little publicity, usage has not met expectations and they are withdrawn again. A shame, as this offered an affordable walk-up service between Brussels & Paris, an alternative to the Thalys high-speed trains.
-
The sleeper train between Munich and Zagreb/Vienna/Budapest/Venice is likely to be extended to Stuttgart. That means better connections to/from Paris by direct TGV with no need to change in Stuttgart. The Vienna-Milan Nightjet is extended to Genoa, and will use Milan Rogoredo.
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New Zurich-Prague sleeper: Routed via Basel, Leipzig and Dresden, this new sleeper is in addition to the existing Zurich-Prague sleeper via Linz. It'll have an 09:35 arrival in Prague rather than 10:57, and it'll have couchettes as well as sleeper. A better option for travellers from Paris and London!
-
Open-access operator Westbahn will extend several of its Vienna-Salzburg double-deck trains to Innsbruck, in competition with ÖBB's railjets.
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The 07:39 Geneva-Venice will terminate at Milan. The 05:39 (perfectly timed for tourists, not) is extended to Venice in its place. The 09:33 Zurich-Venice will terminate at Milan, the 06:33 is extended to Venice in its pace. I wonder if they understand their market?
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A Zurich-Rome sleeper was due to start from December 2022, but there are few signs of that happening this year, it may be deferred to 2023.
Odds & ends this month...
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In Laos, the railway now insists on seeing passengers' original passport, so online sales via Baolau have ceased. How to make a 10-hour easily-booked bus journey seem easier than an impossible-to-book 2-hour train ride, eh?
Update: Baolau have now reinstated sales, you now upload a copy of your passport so their agent can show it to buy your tickets.
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EuroCity trains between Munich/Innsbruck and Italy via the Brenner route have now lost their restaurant cars. It seems these cars had become increasingly unreliable on Italian 3kV DC power, but with only a year left to run, it was not worth upgrading their power supply system. Railjets will replace these classic trains in late 2023 or early 2024.
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Cross-border trains between Tanzania & Zambia on TAZARA are now due to resume from 4 October 2022.
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Moroccan railways (ONCF) appear to have extended their booking horizon from 1 month to 3 months.
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Silja Line has pulled out of Turku-Stockholm route leaving just Viking Line. Meanwhile, Viking Line is down to one ship on the direct Stockholm-Helsinki route, meaning sailings are halved to every second day - making the daily Silja Line sailing the obvious choice on this route now.
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I've added a Berlin Gesundbrunnen section to the Berlin Hbf station guide, and a Cologne Messe/Deutz section to the Cologne Hbf page, to cover cases where trains are diverted to these secondary stations.
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They've moved the luggage lockers at Marseille St Charles, station page updated; I've added info for the shuttle bus between Aix-en-Provence TGV station and Aix city centre to the UK-France page; SNCF passholder reservations can be made at self-service machines, advice added to Interrail/Eurail reservations page; I've sadly removed China DIY from the China page, with China still closed due to Covid-19 and tourism collapsed they seem no longer to be trading;
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Following my trip to Scandinavia I am updating photos and info for that part of Europe, with a new Stockholm Central station guide, better Copenhagen station guide, updated info for X2000, Oresund trains, and Stockholm-Finland ferries.
August 2022
No Disneyland Eurostar from June 2023...
Eurostar has now confirmed that it won't run the traditional direct London to Disneyland train after 6 June 2023, in spite of resuming it post-pandemic in 2022. They say this is due to recovery from the pandemic and implementation of new EU entry systems in 2023, they will be concentrating on their core services.
No Ebbsfleet or Ashford stops for Eurostar in 2023...
Eurostar has now confirmed that its trains will not call at Ebbsfleet or Ashford in 2023, either. And 2024/2025 are looking doubtful. I have updated relevant pages to show this.
Changes expected in this year's December timetable change...
As I do every year, I will compile a list of significant known or expected changes to train services with the Europe-wide timetable change on 11 December. So far:
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Mons-Aulnoye cross-border trains will be discontinued. They were only reintroduced in 2018, but with little publicity, usage has not met expectations and they are withdrawn again. A shame, as this offered an affordable walk-up service between Brussels & Paris, an alternative to the Thalys high-speed trains.
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The sleeper train between Munich and Zagreb/Vienna/Budapest/Venice is likely to be extended to Stuttgart. That means better connections to/from Paris by direct TGV with no need to change in Stuttgart.
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Open-access operator Westbahn will extend several of its Vienna-Salzburg double-deck trains to Innsbruck, in competition with ÖBB's railjets.
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The 07:39 Geneva-Venice will terminate at Milan. The 05:39 (perfectly timed for tourists, not) is extended to Venice in its place. The 09:33 Zurich-Venice will terminate at Milan, the 06:33 is extended to Venice in its pace. I wonder if they understand their market?
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A Zurich-Rome sleeper was due to start from December 2022, but there are few signs of that happening this year, it may be deferred to 2023.
Odds & ends this month...
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It seems Tallink-Silja Line will halve Stockholm-Turku ferry service from September, offering an overnight crossing in one direction and a day crossing in the other. Viking Line continue to operate a day and night crossing on both directions. I have therefore deleted Silja from Seat 61 and recommend Viking Line for Stockholm-Turku (-Helsinki), easier to explain and rely on. Also affecting this route, a bus will replace the train for the first 15 minutes of the Turku-Stockholm journey, due to trackwork taking 2 years, this info is now added to the UK-Finland page, Trains from Stockholm and Trains from Helsinki pages.
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I've changed the wording throughout the site (no mean feat...) for the way Trenitalia/Italo 'ticketless' travel works. Instead of saying you can just quote the booking reference on board, I now say you can print it or show it on your phone. In principle, you can still just quote the PNR to the conductor on board, but a scannable QR code on a printout or phone screen is now needed to get you through the ticket gates being installed at major Italian stations such as Rome Termini, merely quoting a PNR to gate staff might cause an unnecessary delay!
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In Malaysia, the ferry service between Butterworth (where trains from KL and the Thai border arrive) to Georgetown (Penang) has changed. The large old ferries with their open-sides passenger deck are now for bicycles & road vehicles only. A new passenger-only ferry service operates between Butterworth and Georgetown Swettenham Pier using air-conditioned fast ferries. I can't help feeling this is not an improvement, I always enjoyed the open air ferry crossing, and they seems a lot more frequent! There is no longer any KTM ticket office in Georgetown, only at Butterworth.
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The Bangkok-Padang Besar (Malaysia) International Express is now confirmed as resumed, as well as the cross-border local trains.
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It seems ÖBB Lounges no longer offer wine & beer after 18:00. Difficult to confirm, but after 2 reports and with new cagey wording on the ÖBB website which only refers to 'first class drinks' I am removing references to wine/beer.
July 2022
Eurostar increases minimum check-in times...
The minimum check-in for Eurostar has been 30 minutes since it started in 1994. Brexit is now beginning to bite, and the extra checks are adding to check-in time. Eurostar has now officially changed the minimum check-in time to 45 minutes at Paris Nord, Brussels Midi, Rotterdam and Amsterdam. It remains 30 minutes at London St Pancras and LIlle. They recommend you arrive between 90 & 120 minutes if you can. I am progressively updating all the many places on this site that I mention the 30 minutes!
Sale! Buy the European Rail Timetable for £2.09...
The winter 2021/2022 European Rail Timetable is now available with 90% off, at just £2.09 + p&p. Hold that knee-jerk reaction to a timetable only good until June, remember that most railways set their timetables for the whole year from December to December with only minor tweaks in June, so this edition remains relevant for the rest of this year (and a pretty good guide to next year). In fact, if you've ever wondered what's in the ERT or how useful it might be for your future travels, now's the time to try it for, well, not quite free, but pretty close... See www.europeanrailtimetable.eu.
Rogue French region pulls out of Interrail & Eurail schemes
International tourists using the popular Interrail & Eurail passes are no longer welcome in the Sud-Provence-Alpes-Côte-d-Azur region this summer as rogue transport operator @TERSUD_SNCF unilaterally pulled out of the Interrail/Eurail Schemes as from 1 July. Routes on which international travellers are no longer welcome include all @TERSUD_SNCF TER regional trains on the Lyon-Marseille & Marseille-Toulon-Cannes-Nice-Monaco-Ventimiglia. Interrail & Eurail remain valid on TGVs serving these routes (with reservation). Even the Eurail organisation itself appears to have been caught out by this sudden action, as Interrail & Eurail passes have been valid on ALL SNCF trains for 50 years. Until this rogue operator can be dealt with, international travellers are strongly advised not to include the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in their travel plans.
Update 5 July: Decision reversed! A tweet by Renaud Muselier, President of the Region Sud, assures people that Interrail will be accepted after all on all TER Sud trains. We're just awaiting confirmation via the Eurail organisation, but it looks as if the bad publicity has worked, and the decision has been reversed.
Odds & ends this month
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Brittany Ferries has confirmed to me that they have no plans to restore their Portsmouth-Le Havre route, which became freight-only during the pandemic and has remained so since. I have therefore deleted the London-Paris via Portsmouth-Le Havre section and added a detailed London-Portsmouth-Caen-Paris section, which is the new 'sleeper service' alternative to Eurostar.
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Belmond have confirmed that they will continue to use Eurostar London-Lille then bus to Calais to connect with the Venice Simplon Orient Express, instead of the British Pullman London-Folkestone and coach through the Channel Tunnel, while Brexit border delays make the crossing so unpredictable. They hope normal service can be restored later this year. I have updated the warning on the Venice Simplon Orient Express page.
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I've given the Hull-Rotterdam ferry and Newcastle-Amsterdam ferry their own pages, with improved info and photos. Previously they were just sections on the UK-Netherlands page.
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From 13 July, Cuban national trains are again arriving at a platform at the historic Havana Estación Central, which has been under renovation since June 2015 (overrunning since 2018). But only arrivals: Departures remain handled at Le Coubre station. Cuba page updated.
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Belgrade-Sofia is now possible again by train (mostly), if you use a service bus between Nis & Dimitrovgrad where the line is being rebuilt. The Belgrade-Sofia page is now fully updated for 2022.
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I've added an extra option to the UK-Italy page: 10:22 Eurostar to Paris, 15:55 TGV to Munich and 23:20 Nightjet sleeper to Venice arriving 08:34. It's crazy that there is now no direct Paris-Italy sleeper, I originally thought this was too long a way round, but as people still seem to value a London-Venice route with sleeper rather than overnight stop, I've added it. It also avoids crossing Paris, just a 7 minute walk between Paris Nord and Paris Est, this too seems to be important to many people.
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Cross-border trains between Hat Yai in Thailand and Padang Besar in Malaysia resume from 15 July, welcome news. Note added to Malaysia & Thailand pages. Unclear if the Bangkok-Padang Besar through sleepers will also resume.
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The new high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang in Laos can now be booked online via agency Baolau, details added to the Laos page.
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TrainOSE has rebranded to Hellenic Train and Trainose.gr now redirects to HellenicTrain.gr. I have amended this throughout the site.
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The city of Venice will apply an entrance fee for day trippers from 23 January 2023, which will be bookable online. I've added this to the Venice Santa Lucia station page.
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A Brussels-Copenhagen enquiry on Bahn.de no longer brings up through tickets. As Amsterdam-Copenhagen and Brussels-Warsaw/Zurich/Prague still works normally, I'm guessing this is a glitch, I have added a tip to try splitting the booking into Brussels-Germany & Germany-Copenhagen sectors.
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The ferry company sailing to Iceland, Smyrill Line, changed their URL to en.smyrilline.fo and let their time-served URL smyrillline.com divert to an Indonesian casino. I had to sort that out...
June 2022
Paris-Portbou sleeper cut back to Cerbère due to Adif stupidity...
For over a century, French trains from Paris have terminated at Portbou on the Spanish side of the border, for onward connections to Barcelona. Northbound, connections are made at Cerbère on the French side. Spanish infrastructure operator Adif has now insisted that every train driver on Spanish rails speaks a high standard of Spanish. This might be reasonable for the majority Spanish trains, but for French trains going a mere 1km into Spain to terminate at Portbou, this is excessive and clearly impractical. So the Paris-Portbou sleeper has had to be cut back to terminate at Cerbère, with worsened onward connections to Girona & Barcelona.
It's even more stupid when you realise that the French trains run on the standard-gauge line into Portbou, with Spanish trains on a separate Iberian-gauge track.
The only saving grace, avoiding everyone having to take a taxi 3km to Portbou, is that a few years ago, some Portbou-Barcelona regional trains were extended to start at Cerbère.
Had this happened in the UK, a risk assessment would have been carried out and there would doubtless have been a dispensation where the benefit of the new rule was clearly outweighed by the damage it does. Someone needs to talk sense into Adif, clearly a passenger-hostile organisation working against international cross-border rail travel. If we're not careful, the same issue may affect the few remaining connections to/from Portugal.
Odds & ends this month...
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I've added another option to the UK-Norway page using Amsterdam and the new Eemshaven-Kristiansand ferry. It requires an overnight in the outward direction, but is still faster than other ferry options via Kiel or Denmark. Inwards, you can get from Oslo to London with just 1 night on the way.
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I've added another option to the London-Seville/Cordoba/Malaga section of the UK-Spain page, a route via Lille with overnight stop in Nimes. Not only does this avoid having to cross Paris, it gets around the problem of the afternoon Paris-Barcelona TGV only running until September this year.
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Paris Montparnasse seems to have had a makeover since I was last there. Thanks to Seat 61 correspondent Adrian Pearce I've been able to update my photos on the Gare Montparnasse page. Seems there's even a craft beer place opposite the platforms now.
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I've updated the Rails Down the Rhine page with (slightly) better photos and a new video, taken last month. I've added arrows to show the location of the (former) Bridge at Remagen, and the video now has more info on some of the castles along the way than the previous one.
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You'll notice a lot of new and improved photos illustrating railjets, various EuroCity trains, following a trip to Vienna, Bratislava & Budapest lest month. I have completely overhauled & improved the Vienna stations page, Bratislava station page and the Keleti, Deli & Nyugati station pages for Budapest.
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Engineering work will affect the Milan-Tirano regional line in summer, affecting the connection between the Bernina Express & Milan. I have now added bus replacement info for the connection to/from Milan, on the Bernina Express page.
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ÖBB have extended their Berlin-Vienna Nightjet sleeper to/from Graz.
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Eurostar's bike carrying service was due to resume post-Covid in mid-May but it's now been postponed again, it looks like resuming after the summer.
May 2022
Lo-cost 'Izy' Brussels-Paris TGVs to end in July...
Thalys has announced that their lo-cost subsidiary Izy will cease operations on the Paris-Brussels route from 10 July. In future, all Paris-Brussels services will operate under the Thalys brand.
Eurostar & Thalys merge...
Eurostar & Thalys have merged through the creation of Eurostar Group with a 100% stake in both Eurostar and Thalys. SNCF (French Railways) owns a 55.75% stake in Eurostar Group, Caisse de Dépôt et Placement du Québec (CDPQ) a 19.31% stake (the former British stake sold by the UK government) while SNCB (Belgian Railways) owns an 18.5% interest. The new company will have its headquarters in Brussels.
The media has waxed lyrical about new trains between London and Germany. In fact, I imagine the initial aim is to reduce overheads, although we could then see better through ticketing and timetable co-ordination between Eurostar & Thalys services. However, I'm not expecting through trains between London & Germany any time soon, this is not likely to be a short or even medium term result of the merger.
New Greece-Cyprus ferry starts June 2022...
Finally! After a gap of some 20 years, a ferry service will start up in June 2022 between Piraeus in Greece and Limassol on Cyprus, weekly or twice weekly in summer. I makes UK-Cyprus possible in 5 days, in comfort, see the London to Cyprus page. Let's hope it becomes popular and expands its season...
Odds & ends this month...
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Automatic ticket gates are being installed at Cairo main station at the entrance to the platforms. You'll no longer be able to board any train and pay the conductor on board.
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Open-access operator Regiojet now allow Eurail & Interrail passholders to book seat reservations online at their website. I have added this info to the Eurail & Interrail reservations page.
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It looks as if the Bialystok-Kaunas train will not resume until July. It had been reported that it would resume this month.
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The daytime train Tara between Belgrade & Montenegro is still suspended, but will resume for the summer, mid-June to mid-September. No sign of Zagreb-Belgrade resuming yet.
April 2022
New Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train to start 1 September...
Tickets went on sale on 27 April for SJ's new Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train. It will leave Hamburg Altona 21:55 and arrive Stockholm Central at 09:55. Southbound, it will leave Stockholm Central at 17:34 and arrive Hamburg Altona at 06:30. It will offer seats, 4 & 6 berth couchettes, and refurbished ex-ÖBB AB32 sleeping-cars with 1 & 2 bed compartments with washbasin, plus a few deluxe 1 & 2 bed compartments with shower & toilet. Tickets can be bought at www.sj.se or (interestingly) www.oebb.at - the latter will book through journeys between Stockholm and stations in Germany and Austria. I will add this new train to seat61 in due course. See SJ press release.
SNCF's Carte Avantage & DB's Bahncard...
I've added a section about SNCF's Carte Avantage to the Train travel in France page, and a section about DB's Bahncard to the Train travel in Germany page. I'm not a fan of what economists call a 'two-part tariff', I find expecting potential customers to look up prices, find them expensive, waste time researching various discount cards and performing calculations, then check prices all over again to be a confusing and unnecessary distraction. I believe that train operators (like airlines) should simply show their 'best price' up front, first time. But as things stand, these cards can make sense for visitors making multiple journeys, so I have given a run-down.
New Zealand's trains to return in September...
After fears that their carriages would be redeployed on expensive multi-day 'land cruises' for rich tourists, Kiwirail have announced that the Auckland-Wellington Northern Explorer and (Wellington-) Picton-Christchurch Coastal Pacific will resume from late September, with tour packages 'alongside'. See www.greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/northern-explorer/plan/service-alerts. The best news I have had all day!
New Westbahn trains from Munich to Salzburg & Vienna...
From 8 April, private open-access operator Westbahn has extended up to 6 of its swish double-deck Vienna-Salzburg trains to/from Munich, with attractive fares, in competition with DB/ÖBB railjets.
Success for Trenitalia's Paris-Milan Frecciarossas...
It's reported that Trenitalia has achieved an incredible 87% average load factor on its Paris-Lyon-Turin-Milan Frecciarossa trains which it launched in December to compete with SNCF's long-established Paris-Milan TGVs. 75% of passengers are making an international journey, with Paris-Turin and Lyon-Milan the most popular. 60% of passengers book their tickets a month or more in advance.
Travel continues to open up...
Last month, the UK dropped all inbound Covid testing requirements and even dispensed with its Passenger Locator form. Most countries in western and central Europe have also dropped testing requirements for vaccinated travellers, so travel around most of Europe is now almost back to normal, bar the need to fill in the occasional locator form. Eurostar is ramping up services towards pre-pandemic levels. See the COVID-19 information page for advice on current European travel requirements and how to check them.
Outside Europe, other countries such as Singapore, Vietnam, Malaysia & Thailand are opening up to tourists again, albeit with some testing required.
Odds & ends this month...
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On Tazara, cross-border passenger trains between Dar e Salaam and Zambia are likely to resume in late July 2022, having been suspended since 2020.
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Eurostar plan to resume taking bikes from mid-May.
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The Sofia to Istanbul train will resume from 26 April, with the Istanbul to Sofia train resuming the previous day. The Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car will run this summer, starting from 3 June.
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Stena Line have revamped their Dutch website, the ability to book SailRail tickets from NL to London has disappeared. Sigh...
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Iryo, the consortium planning to compete with Renfe, Avlo and Ouigo on Barcelona-Madrid and with Renfe on Madrid-Valencia, has announced that its Frecciarossa 1000 trains will start running in November 2022.
March 2022
P&O: How to render a respected brand toxic in hours...
With all the trappings of a coup in some third-world state, on 17 March, Dubai-owned P&O Ferries made all 800 British seafaring staff redundant without warning via a 3-minute Zoom video, replacing them with cheap agency staff. All sailings have been suspended without notice for up to 10 days, leaving passengers stranded without warning, see www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-60779001. The firm's behaviour has been described as 'appalling' - you may wish to reconsider using P&O Ferries. It seems that employment contracts based in Cyprus or possible Jersey (depending on what source you believe) allowed them to circumvent normal employment law. Note that P&O Ferries are unconnected with P&O Cruises, despite sharing a historic name.
Travel has got easier...
The UK, France, Belgium and Italy have now all dropped Covid testing requirements for entry. Poland and the Netherlands remain the main countries still requiring testing. I've re-written the COVID-19 information page to reflect this. And as of 18 March, the UK abolishes its passenger locator form, too.
Odds & ends this month...
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The Brasserie de la Consigne at Paris Est (a good place for a beer or meal between trains) has gone into liquidation, Paris Est station page updated.
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Stena Line has put back the departure of its afternoon Holyhead to Dublin ferry from the long-standing 14:05 to 14:45. Irish Ferries' 14:25 sailing will now get you to Dublin first. London to Dublin page updated.
February 2022
Renfe-SNCF to end co-operation from the end of 2022...
Renfe-SNCF will end its loss-making joint operation of TGV & AVE trains between France and Spain using the Perpignan-Barcelona high-speed line, from the end of this year. It remains to be seen what will happen to the Paris/Lyon/Marseille-Barcelona services. Article in French.
Belgium drops Covid test & quarantine requirement...
From 18 February, Belgium will remove the requirement for even vaccinated travellers from the UK to have a Covid test and undergo quarantine on arrival. The NHS app with QR code and completing the Belgian arrival form will be sufficient.
France drops Covid test requirement...
From 12 February, France no longer requires any Covid test to enter from the UK, for vaccinated travellers. The NHS app with QR code and health declaration & passenger locator form will be sufficient.
Britain abolishes 'day 2' Covid test on return to UK...
From 11 February UK travellers will no longer need a 'Day 2' Covid test on their return to the UK (The pre-return test was dropped a while ago). So if you're vaccinated, all you need is a simple antigen test less than 48h before entering France or Italy, 24h before entering the Belgium or Netherlands. No test needed for Germany or Switzerland. Belgium has some self-isolation rules, but not for transit in less than 48h. There is talk of France dropping the need for a test, too. So travel is becoming easier...
Odds & ends this month...
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Stena Line now offers pet-friendly cabins on its Harwich to Hoek van Holland route, you no longer need to put your dog or cat in a kennel. I have revised the Train travel to Europe with pets page accordingly.
January 2022
Oui.sncf has been rebranded as sncf-connect.com...
SNCF (French Railways) has rebranded its website for the third time. Having changed the long-standing voyages-sncf.com to oui.sncf only a few years ago, oui.sncf has today (25 January) changed to sncf-connect.com. The new site seems to lack a journey planner, until you realise that there is just one field, for your destination. If you switch it to English, it puts all times in the old-fashioned 12-hour clock, which does my head in. Sometimes, I wonder what SNCF is on...
European Rail Map, 3rd edition published...
The European Rail Timetable people have published a 3rd edition of their European Rail Map, the best out there. Compared the 2nd edition, it updates progress with various high-speed lines in Spain, France, Germany. Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu.
Odds & ends this month...
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Minoan Lines apparently won't be operating ferries from Venice to Greece this year, presumably down to the pandemic travel downturn.
December 2021
Paris-Turin-Milan Frecciarossas to start on 18 December...
It's been put back and put back, but it's finally about to happen... Trenitalia will launch two daily Frecciarossa 1000 trains between Paris, Turin & Milan in competition with SNCF's existing 3 daily TGVs. This means there'll be a choice of operator on the key route from London & Paris to Italy, and it'll help keep fares low, too. Unlike the TGVs, the Frecciarossas will run via Lyon Part Dieu, opening up a hitherto untapped market between Italy and Lyon, and they'll go head-to-head with SNCF on it's premier route, Paris to Lyon. See Paris-Milan times, fares and info. I will add these Frecciarossas as an option on the UK to Italy page and other pages in due course.
New China-Laos Railway open from 3 December...
The new Chinese-built 160 km/h railway from the Chinese border through Luang Prabang to Vientiane opened on 3 December. There will be 2 services daily between Vientiane & Luang Prabang with 1 extended to Boten on the Chinese border. There will be no cross-border trains as yet due to Covid-19, but post-pandemic trains will link Kunming with Vientiane and it'll be possible to travel from Europe to Bangkok & Singapore by train without the bus across Cambodia. Details are now on the Laos page.
European timetable changes in December...
The significant changes from 12 December have now been updated throughout seat61.com.
Timetables change across Europe at 24:00 on the 2nd Saturday in December. Here's a round-up of the major changes expected so far, I have already incorporated these significant changes into the information on this site.
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New Nightjet sleeper train Paris to Salzburg & Vienna, running 3 times a week, provisional times Paris Est depart 18:58 Tue, Fri, Sun, Salzburg arrive 07:26, Vienna arrive 10:12.
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New daily Nightjet sleeper train Amsterdam-Zurich, leaving Amsterdam Centraal 20:30, Cologne 23:53, Basel SBB 06:45, Zurich HB 08:04. Sleeping-cars & couchettes hired from RDC, seats cars provided by DB & SBB.
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New French Intercité de Nuit between Paris, Lourdes & Tarbes, with a portion for Biarritz & Hendaye in July & August.
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New daily Budapest-Graz-Ljubljana Intercity train, with catering and new deluxe business class seats.
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The Dacia Express sleeper train from Vienna to Romania expands, gaining a portion for Cluj and a portion for Bucharest via Timisoara - in addition to the existing portion from Vienna to Bucharest via Sighisoara.
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Hamburg-Berlin-Prague-Budapest EuroCity Hungaria will be split into two trains either side of Prague due to pathing conflicts/trackwork. It will be restored as a through train from 1 September 2022, at least Berlin-Bratislava, probably Berlin-Budapest.
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Westbahn will extend 6 of its Vienna-Salzburg trains to Munich. It means there'll be a low-cost alternative to the fast railjets. Update: This has now been put back until April 2022, with most of the new services starting then and one or two of the new trains starting in August.
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The afternoon Paris-Barcelona TGV will remain suspended for most of 2022, only running from July to September. This leaves an uninspiring one train per day between Paris & Barcelona, too early for same-day connections from London yet too late to connect with the afternoon AVE from Barcelona to Seville & Malaga.
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Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be accelerated, taking just 3h32. I'm seeing a temporary service reduction from December until April from 6 to 3 trains per day each way, there is then talk of an extra train making 7 from April onwards.
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The once-daily direct Toulouse-Barcelona TGV, already reduced to summer-only, is discontinued in the 2022 timetable.
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The Berlin-Krakow-Przemysl sleeper is discontinued. The Berlin-Krakow daytime train is extended to Przemysl.
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The existing 3 trains per day between Hamburg & Copenhagen become 5 in summer from late June to late August, see the Hamburg-Copenhagen page.
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There are some significant changes to the timings of some Paris-Turin-Milan TGVs, see the Paris-Milan TGV page. It becomes possible to do London to Florence or Rome in a single day on Mondays-Fridays, although northbound, Naples, Rome or Florence to London to only possible in a day on Sundays.
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The Budapest-Prague/Warsaw/Berlin sleeper switches from using Budapest Keleti to Budapest Nyugati, bringing it into line with other trains on the Budapest-Bratislava-Prague axis.
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The direct 08:01 (now 08:04) EuroCity from Frankfurt to Milan switches to using Milan Porta Garibaldi. This stuffs onward connections to Florence, Rome, Naples, Genoa & Nice, requiring a station to station transfer by taxi or local train to Milan Centrale.
November 2021
European timetable changes in December...
Timetables change across Europe at 24:00 on the 2nd Saturday in December. Here's a round-up of the major changes expected so far, I have already incorporated these significant changes into the information on this site.
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New Nightjet sleeper train Paris to Salzburg & Vienna, running 3 times a week, provisional times Paris Est depart 18:58 Tue, Fri, Sun, Salzburg arrive 07:26, Vienna arrive 10:12.
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New daily Nightjet sleeper train Amsterdam-Zurich, leaving Amsterdam Centraal 20:30, Cologne 23:53, Basel SBB 06:45, Zurich HB 08:04. Sleeping-cars & couchettes hired from RDC, seats cars provided by DB & SBB.
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New French Intercité de Nuit between Paris and Lourdes & Tarbes, with a portion for Biarritz & Hendaye in July & August.
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New daily Budapest-Graz-Ljubljana Intercity train, with catering and new deluxe business class seats.
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The Dacia Express sleeper train from Vienna to Romania expands, gaining a portion for Cluj and a portion for Bucharest via Timisoara - in addition to the existing portion from Vienna to Bucharest via Sighisoara.
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Hamburg-Berlin-Prague-Budapest EuroCity Hungaria will be split into two trains either side of Prague due to pathing conflicts/trackwork. May be restored at a future date.
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Westbahn will extend 6 of its Vienna-Salzburg trains to Munich. It means there'll be a low-cost alternative to the fast Railjets. Update: It seems this has been put back to 1 April 2022.
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The afternoon Paris-Barcelona TGV will remain suspended for most of 2022, only running from July to September. This leaves an uninspiring one train per day between Paris & Barcelona, too early for same-day connections from London yet too late to connect with the afternoon AVE from Barcelona to Seville & Malaga.
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Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be accelerated, taking just 3h32. I'm seeing a temporary service reduction from December until April from 6 to 3 trains per day each way, there is then talk of an extra train making 7 from April onwards.
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The once-daily direct Toulouse-Barcelona TGV, already reduced to summer-only, is discontinued in the 2022 timetable.
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The Berlin-Krakow-Przemysl sleeper is likely to be discontinued, but isn't 100% confirmed. The Berlin-Krakow daytime train is extended to Przemysl.
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The existing 3 trains per day between Hamburg & Copenhagen become 5 in summer from late June to late August, see the Hamburg-Copenhagen page.
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There are some significant changes to the timings of some Paris-Turin-Milan TGVs, see the Paris-Milan TGV page.
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The Budapest-Prague/Warsaw/Berlin sleeper switches from using Budapest Keleti to Budapest Nyugati, bringing it into line with other trains on the Budapest-Bratislava-Prague axis.
October 2021
Lumo launches...
Lo-cost London-Edinburgh operator Lumo ran its inaugural train for press & media on 21 October, with ;public service starting on 25 October. With fares from £14.90 and a promise of 60% of tickets £30 or less, the service aims firmly at the lo-cost airlines. I travelled on Lumo's press & media preview train on 21 October 2021, see the video here.
Odds & ends this month...
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The Warsaw-Kiev Kiev Express sleeper train will resume from 5 November.
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In Cuba, inter-province travel has been illegal for some time. But this is changing and long-distance trains resume from 1 November, to a slightly revised timetable. The new timings (as far as known) and dates of operation from 1 November onwards are now on the Cuba page.
September 2021
Eurostar ski train to run again in winter 2021/22 (sort of)
The Eurostar ski train from London to Moutiers & Bourg St Maurice didn't run in winter 2020/21. However, 1 Ski train per week will run in winter 2021/22, Friday nights overnight southbound, Saturdays by day inbound. It's being financed by Compagnie des Alpes which owns many of the resorts It will be sold as the TravelSki Express. In effect it's a charter train this winter, which means it won't be sold as ticket-only, but as part of ski packages sold at www.TravelSki.com. I'll post more details when known, on the Ski by Train page.
European timetable changes in December...
Timetables change across Europe at 24:00 on the 2nd Saturday in December. Here's a round-up of the major changes expected so far:
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New Nightjet sleeper train Paris to Salzburg & Vienna, running 3 times a week, provisional times Paris Est depart 18:58 Tue, Fri, Sun, Salzburg arrive 07:26, Vienna arrive 10:12.
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New sleeper train Amsterdam-Zurich.
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Hamburg-Berlin-Prague-Budapest EuroCity Hungaria likely to be split into two trains either side of Prague due to pathing conflicts/trackwork. May be restored at a future date.
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Westbahn will extend several of its Vienna-Salzburg trains to Munich, in the path of Salzburg-Munich regional trains - effectively two existing services joined together to form a useful through service. It means there'll be a low-cost alternative to the fast Railjets.
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On Paris-Barcelona, the afternoon TGV should be reinstated in each direction, restoring two TGVs per day. It had been cut back to just the morning train due to Covid-19.
Lumo is go! London-Edinburgh from £14.90...
Open access operator Lumo will offer 2 trains per day with fares from £14.90 when it starts on 25 October. By early 2022 they'll be running up to 5 trains per day each way, with 60% of fares under £30. It's aimed fairly and squarely at easyJet & Ryanair passengers, and I've added basic info on the London to Edinburgh page. I'll be watching this project with great interest - pass the popcorn!
Eurostar increases service as travel resumes...
Eurostar are increasing London-Paris to 5 train per day each way until November, London-Brussels to 3 trains per day. Vaccinated UK travellers can now visit many countries fairly freely, including France, Germany, Spain, Switzerland, and passing through Belgium in less than 48h is not a problem either. Entering Italy requires a negative Covid test in the 48 hours before arrival. I explain the arrangements for travel to mainland Europe on the COVID-19 information page.
Odds & ends this month...
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It now appears that Eurostar isn't likely to call at Ebbsfleet or Ashford in 2022 either. Not until 2023.
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The Belgrade-Montenegro sleeper train will switch stations in Belgrade, from Topcider to Beograd Centar and as a result will lose its motorail facility as there are no loading facilities at Centar. No news yet about the day train. The daytime train will be cancelled from 30 September until at least the December timetable change. The Belgrade-Bar page has been updated.
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The Gilbert Scott restaurant at St Pancras closed earlier this year, I have removed it from the St Pancras station page.
August 2021
Paris-Barcelona TGVs cut to 1 per day, so switch to the sleeper!
While Spain was in lockdown, only the morning TGV operated between Paris & Barcelona. Fair enough. When borders opened, I expected the afternoon TGV to be restored permanently, but it seems it will only run until 30 August, presumably due to reduced demand, leaving just one TGV per day between Paris & Barcelona even with borders open. That leaves the Perpignan-Barcelona high-speed line as an expensive white elephant with just 2 trains a day (the other train still running is the Barcelona-Lyon AVE). The morning 10:14 Paris-Barcelona TGV leaves too early for connections from London or Amsterdam, and arrives too late to connect with the afternoon 15:50 AVE from Barcelona to Cordoba & Seville. Time to switch back to the night trains? I have added a Paris to Barcelona by sleeper train page explaining how to take the French sleeper trains from Paris to the Spanish border at Portbou or Latour de Carol, and a connecting local train to Barcelona. I've then added journey options using this route between London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Luxembourg, Cologne, Frankfurt, Hamburg & Berlin and Barcelona, Seville, Valencia & Alicante.
Changes to Copenhagen-Oslo ferry...
The DFDS overnight cruise ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo will now call at Frederikshavn in northern Denmark, to replace Stena Line's Frederikshavn-Oslo ferry which is discontinued. Unfortunately, this means leaving Copenhagen at 14:15 rather than 16:30, breaking the connection with the first train of the day from Hamburg to Copenhagen. It'll still be possible to go Hamburg to Frederikshavn with 2 changes, and make the late-night departure from there to Oslo. Southbound, the ferry leaves Oslo at 14:15 instead of 16:39, so connections to Hamburg & the rest of Europe are maintained.
Can you help with photos?
When I first started Seat 61 20 years ago, I fondly thought I could travel around and get all the photos I needed myself. I've finally accepted that I can't do it all myself. Even when I do get photos, rebranded colour schemes, new trains and refurbished interiors often render my own photos out of date. So if you use this site, find it useful, and have any photos which might help future travellers follow in your footsteps, please get in touch. There are a few specific photos I'm lacking, more information on the photo request page.
Settle & Carlisle, England's most scenic railway...
I'm delighted that I've finally added a page about England's most scenic railway, the Settle & Carlisle line. With a great history as well as fabulous scenery, it makes for an excellent day out, or you can build it into your next train trip between London & Scotland. I was able to add that page after a press preview trip on the wonderful Staycation Express, a charter train that's building on the S&C's position as a tourist attraction. See the Settle & Carlisle video.
Karawanks Tunnel work completed, Munich-Zagreb sleeper resumes...
The work in the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia was completed on 31 July. The Munich-Zagreb sleeper has resumed, the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper is no longer diverted and will resume calling at Ljubljana. I have removed the warnings on the various affected pages.
July 2021
Hope for a direct Madrid-Lisbon daytime train?
It's reported that Renfe is now proposing a Madrid-Lisbon daytime train, 06:35 from Lisbon arriving Madrid 15:00, 15:30 from Madrid arriving Lisbon 21:55, to replace the Lusitania Trenhotel sleeper service that has been suspended since March 2020 and which Renfe will not restore. These timings would allow same-day connections to/from Barcelona. 7h20 isn't fast, but it could be speeded up when Madrid-Badajoz high-speed line opens in 2024.
Renfe's new fare types & classes in Spain...
Renfe (Spanish Railways) have adopted a completely new fares structure for all its long distance trains starting this month, and they've also changed the terms they use for classes. Gone are the long-standing Turista & Preferente, Renfe now offers Standard & Comfort class. For an explanation of the new setup, see the fares & classes section on the Train travel in Spain page. I have revised the How to use Renfe.com section, updated the Train travel in Spain page and (I think) changed all the terminology used for Spanish classes & ticket types throughout the site. If you find any stray mentions of 'Turista' or 'Promo fares' let me know!
Odds & ends this month...
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Demise of Thello... With Thello's Nice-Milan trains now dead, I have replaced the former Nice to Milan by Thello page with a new Nice to Italy page, showing how you make the journey now, by French TER to Ventimiglia then onward Italian train. I have also gone through the whole site re-engineering journeys between city pairs that formerly used these Thello trains. Some journeys are no longer possible, such as Naples or Venice to Barcelona with an overnight stop in Marseille, now that the convenient direct Milan-Marseille Thello train is no more - though this may be down to covid-19 reducing Milan-Ventimiglia service as there are currently no departures between 09:10 and 15:10. If a 11:10 or 13:10 Milan-Ventimiglia is reinstated post-pandemic, it'll become possible once more.
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The revamped MAV (Hungarian Railways) website makes further improvements... MAV revamped its website last year at jegy.mav.hu, but it had several limitations. Some of these have now been fixed, for example it can now book from Budapest to Zagreb & Ljubljana, formerly it wouldn't recognise those locations. It will also now book inwards journeys from Warsaw & Zagreb to Budapest, but for some reason Ljubljana or Krakow to Budapest still always fails at the reservation stage. I have updated booking instructions accordingly on the Trains from Zagreb, Trains from Budapest, Trains from Warsaw pages and various other pages. I've also updated the advice and comments on the How to use the MAV website page.
June 2021
Thello Paris-Venice & Nice-Milan definitively dead...
Finally, they say as much on their site. As from July, the Thello sleeper train between Paris & Venice and the day trains between Nice & Milan are permanently discontinued. Thello wasn't the best sleeper train in the world, but it was the only one on a major route with high demand and distances more suited to sleepers than high-speed trains. This leaves a massive gap in the market. As for terminating all Italian trains from Milan and Genoa at Ventimiglia on the border, 55 minutes short of Nice where everyone wants to go, is crazy, and (frankly) an indictment of European rail policy. See the announcement at www.thello.com/en/traffic-information...
Now you can book online from Warsaw or Krakow to Prague!
Until now, the Czech Railways (CD) website www.cd.cz would happily sell you an advance-purchase ticket from Prague to Krakow or Warsaw from as little as €19, one-way or round trip, but only in the outward direction. That was because you needed to print out the ticket and have it stamped by a Czech station or conductor before entering Poland. The Czech staff have access to the CD sales system so could verify it as genuine, Polish conductors would only accept tickets if they'd been verified & stamped by CD staff. So www.cd.cz couldn't sell tickets for the Poland to Prague direction. And you couldn't buy them online from Polish Railways (PKP Intercity) either, as PKP have been utterly negligent in not enabling online sale of any international train tickets from Poland, other than to Berlin. So until now you couldn't buy a Warsaw or Krakow to Prague ticket online at all, at any website, anywhere.
This also in effect made rail travel far more expensive: Overseas visitors travelling from Krakow to Prague couldn't go online and buy a cheap €19 advance-purchase fare a week or two before they reached Poland, they had to buy at the station when they got to Poland when all the cheap advance tickets had sold out. A full-flex ticket bought on the day costs €70. Now CD has enabled online sales in both directions, problem solved (no thanks to PKP). Phew...
A Zurich-Rome sleeper may start in Spring 2022...
It's reported that the Zurich-Rome sleeper planned for December 2022 may start earlier than that. Departure from Zurich around 20:00, arrive in Rome around 09:15. Departure from Rome around 19:00, arrival in Zurich around 07:30. It will consist of 2 Trenitalia sleeping-cars and 5 Trenitalia couchette cars, staffed by the same contractor who staffs Trenitalia's domestic sleepers. See this article (in German) at www.aargauerzeitung.ch.
Odds & ends this month...
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In Georgia/Armenia, the Tbilisi-Erevan train has resumed post-pandemic, completely re-equipped with modern air-con Russian-built sleepers. Details and photos are now on the Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan page.
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The Romanian Railways website now issues .pdf print-at-home tickets for Hungary<>Romania journeys, there is no longer any need to pick up tickets for this relation at a CFR station in Romania. That means westerners can now use it for journeys from Budapest to Romania, and I have adjusted booking instructions accordingly where needed. It's especially welcome as the MAV (Hungarian Railways) website has been unable to sell couchettes or sleepers online since its revamp last year. The Romanians have now solved that problem!
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With the Madrid-Lisbon sleeper train looking unlikely to ever resume, I have (a) added a new page explaining the alternative daytime 3-train combo from Madrid to Lisbon (see the new Madrid to Lisbon page) and (b) revised the second London-Lisbon option (via Barcelona & Madrid) on the UK to Portugal page to suggest an overnight hotel in Madrid then daytime trains to Lisbon, rather than the discontinued sleeper. The rest of the site will be done in due course, although I keep hoping (probably in vain) that both the Sud Express and Lusitania will eventually be rescued in some way.
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The repair work in the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia has overrun, and should now finish on 31 July rather than 10 July. While work continues, the Munich-Zagreb sleeper is cancelled, the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper is diverted not calling at Ljubljana, and the Zagreb-Belgrade train is re-timed.
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In Israel, trains service was suspended due to covid-19 but has now resumed on all routes bar one - the classic historic route to Jerusalem. It's reported that Israel Railways would prefer to close it, now that the new fast line to Jerusalem is open.
May 2021
Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam from 24 May...
The Vienna/Innsbruck/Munich to Amsterdam Nightjet train starts running from 24 May, the extension from Dusseldorf to Amsterdam postponed from the year by covid-19. It's due to be joined by a new Amsterdam-Zurich train from December. The train number - Nightjet 420 - is causing a few titters, I had to look up cannabis culture to understand why - see this Twitter thread.
Major rail reorganisation in Britain...
The long-awaited Williams-Shapps Plan for Rail was published on 20 May. It's 'game over' for franchising, a new government organisation to be called Great British Railways will be formed out of what's now Network Rail and this will set fares, plan services and generally run the network. Trains will still be run by private companies, but as mere contractors, not franchisees. Fares are to be simplified, flexible season tickets introduced and digital tickets rolled out across the network rather than by operator. The report can be downloaded here, The report can be downloaded here. My interpretation of it can be seen on Twitter here. More standardisation, less fragmentation? Probably. Less innovation and no Chiltern-style investment as it all now needs to come from government? Possibly. We shall see.
Flixtrain starts Stockholm-Gothenburg trains...
Low-cost train operator Flixtrain started services between Stockholm & Gothenburg on 6 May 2021, initially 2 services each way on weekdays, 3 per day at weekends, fares from €12.99, www.flixtrain.com/train/gothenburg.
Brussels/Amsterdam to Warsaw sleeper?
It now appears that a Brussels & Amsterdam to Warsaw portion will eventually be added to European Sleeper's Brussels & Amsterdam to Prague sleeper referred to in April's news. This comes from a track access application in Poland.
Vladivostok-Korea-Japan ferry back in action - sort of...
DBS Ferry suspended its weekly sailings of the ferry Eastern Dream between Vladivostok, Korea & Japan in November 2019, and discontinued them permanently in February 2020. However, Duwon Shipping has now taken over the Eastern Dream, and a weekly service started operating from Vladivostok again, in September 2020. The Korean port is now Pohang, just north of Busan, and in Japan they are using Maizuru, on the north coast opposite Kyoto. The ferry is currently only carrying freight due to the pandemic, but it's expected that passengers will be carried when border restrictions end. More information.
Further update: A further Korean media article from February 2021 reported that this service had closed down again. However, my correspondent reports that it is indeed currently still operating, at least between Vladivostok & Korea if not to Japan, and without passengers due to the pandemic. It may resume in full after the pandemic, we'll see.
April 2021
New classes & fares structure in Spain...
Renfe will be playing around with its classes yet again from June. Having changed Turista, Preferente & Club to Turista, Turista Plus & Preferente, from summer 2021 Turista will become Standard and Turista Plus/Preferente will become Comfort. A new fares structure will be introduced with 3 fare types, Basic (the cheapest), Choose (the most flexible) and Premium, (all-inclusive), more about this here: www.euroweeklynews.com.
New sleeper train from 2022: Brussels/Amsterdam to Berlin & Prague!
A new company started by two Dutch/Belgian entrepreneurs plans to run a sleeper train from Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam & Amsterdam to Berlin, Dresden & Prague. European Sleeper (www.europeansleeper.eu) anticipates running their first train in April 2022, initially 3 times a week with daily operation the ultimate goal.
My guess at rough timings is Brussels dep. 19:00, Amsterdam dep. 23:00, Berlin arr. 06:00, Dresden 08:15, Prague 10:30.
And westbound, Prague dep. 18:30, Dresden dep. 21:00, Berlin dep. 23:00, Amsterdam arr. 06:00, Brussels arr. 09:45.
This is based on information that the train will arrive Berlin around 06:00 and leave around 23:00 westbound. It's thus clear that Berlin is a prime objective of this new train, unlike its predecessor the Amsterdam-Prague/Warsaw City Night Line which passed through Berlin at 4am, too early for most travellers, and left Berlin between midnight & 1am westbound. Antwerp & Rotterdam are also interesting inclusions - as far as I can recall, Rotterdam hasn't had a sleeper train since Hoek of Holland lost its sleepers in the 1990s.
European Sleeper's masterstroke is to have partnered with established Czech open-access operator Regiojet (www.regiojet.com) who will be providing rolling stock (couchette cars & seats cars, but no sleeping-cars) and hauling the train in Germany & the Czech Republic. SNCB will provide haulage in Belgium, their haulage partner in the Netherlands is yet to be announced.
The seats cars will include Standard, Standard (Astra), Relax and Business classes, see Regiojet classes here. I would speculate that the couchettes will be used as 4-berth sleeping compartments, with sole occupancy available for 1-3 people at less than the cost of 4 tickets, as has been Regiojet's practice on their successful Prague-Croatia sleeper train, but all such details have yet to be announced. It's possible some couchette cars will be used as 'pseudo-sleeping-cars with full bedding, set up with 1, 2 or 3 bunks on one side of the compartment, a sofa on the other side, as that is what Regiojet do on their Prague-Slovakia night train. Regiojet own some cars capable of carrying bikes, but it's not known if such cars will be included in this train.
The full Regiojet on-board service will be provided, meaning complimentary Illy coffee & bottled water, free WiFi and extensive at-seat menu, hopefully at Regiojet's Czech prices. I believe that partnering with Regiojet gives great credibility to this new service, and sorts on-board service and ticket distribution at a stroke. Let's see if European Sleeper & Regiojet can together replicate the success of Regiojet's Prague-Croatia sleeper.
Update: Requested timings have been spotted on a Czech infrastructure website. These suggest Oostende depart 18:04, Bruges 18:19, Brussels Midi 19:16, Amsterdam 21:59, Berlin Hbf arrive 05:51, Dresden 07:41, Prague 09:56. And yes, the train will now serve Oostende, Bruges & Ghent as well as Brussels! Westbound, Prague dep. 19:10, Dresden dep. 21:27, Berlin dep. 23:20, Amsterdam arr. 06:01, Brussels Midi 08:44, Bruges 09:41, Oostende 09:56.
You wait years for a Brussels-Berlin sleeper then 3 turn up at once...
Literally within an hour of today's European Sleeper's announcement, another company founded by Belgian entrepreneurs announced plans for a Brussels/Liege-Berlin night train. Moonlight Express (moonlightexpress.eu) also plan an April 2022 start, apparently separately from European Sleeper, and of course ÖBB plan a Brussels/Paris-Berlin/Vienna Nightjet from December 2023, possibly with their new Nightjet trains being built by Siemens. I've been told European Sleeper and Moonlight Express have indeed been talking to each other about the obvious overlap.
Moonlight Express will be all-sleeping accommodation (no sit-up-all-night seats) and will feature a bistro car. It will leave Brussels around 20:00 and arrive Berlin around 08:00, using classic lines. It will have both couchettes and sleeping-cars, leased from RDC, see www.rdc-deutschland.de/rdc-asset-gmbh. It too will initially run 3 times a week, starting April 2022, with Eurostar connections to/from London. RDC-Deutchland is also supplying couchettes & sleeping-cars for SBB's Amsterdam-Zurich sleeper from December 2021, I would speculate that Amsterdam-Zurich might nab RDC's MUn sleepers (enough for 2 per train plus spare) with Moonlight Express getting RDC's AB33 ex-T2s sleeping-cars also enough for two per train, though it could be the other way round!
With Brussels-Vienna already on the books and a Brussels-Copenhagen being tendered and due to start from August 2022, Brussels is indeed looking like a night train hub, with Eurostar connections from London...
March 2021
Prague-Vienna & Prague-Budapest trains diverted...
From 6 April 2021 for a couple of years, Prague-Vienna and Prague-Bratislava-Budapest trains are being diverted via the slower route through Havlíčkův Brod while their normal route through Česká Třebová is upgraded. This adds 25 minutes to the journey. I have now updated the timings on this site - I think I have found them all, let me know if I've missed one! The Vienna-Berlin Vindobona and Budapest-Berlin Hungaria now by-pass Prague Hlavni, making up the time lost by the slower route, so end to end timings aren't affected.
Seat61.com is 20 years old today...
Has the internet really been around that long? I registered the domain name seat61.com 20 years ago today, on 21 March 2001. Only because I had managed to get a webpage online and thought it would be fun. I never expected it to become my full-time job, which it did in 2007. Read more about how & why I started 61 on the About me page.
Train travel in Egypt...
I have just thoroughly overhauled and improved the Train travel in Egypt page, thanks to photos taken by Koen of paliparan.com. Not only did I enjoy following his visit to Egypt on Twitter, he has generously allowed me to use some of his photos to illustrate Cairo Ramses station and the different types of Egyptian train, and it inspired me to dig deeper into a subject that is not always well covered on the internet. I now explain how to use 3rd part apps on your smartphone to find train times, given the shortcomings of the Egyptian National Railways website which only shows air-con express trains, and only major stations. I have pored over photos & videos to explain the layout and platform arrangements of Cairo station. That page is now what I hope is the best guide to Egyptian train travel on the net - well, that's what I've aimed at, anyway!
February 2021
Return of the Paris-Nice Train Bleu...
President Macron wants eco-friendly night trains to return, and he's promised to restore the Paris-Nice and Paris-Biarritz/Hendaye/Lourdes/Tarbes Intercité de nuit. It seems the Paris-Nice Intercité de nuit, the train originally called the Train Bleu, may return as early as 29 March 2021. Watch this space!
Odds & ends this month...
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Due to long-term trackwork, the two cross-Prague trains (Vienna-Berlin Vindobona and Budapest-Hamburg Hungaria) will by-pass the main Prague Hlavni station from April for a year or two, calling only at Prague Holesovice, a secondary station. By not going into Hlavni and changing direction, they save the time that the trackwork costs them. I am updating the site accordingly, and have also souped up the information about Holesovice station.
January 2021
Updating European train times for the 2021 timetable...
With multiple lockdowns in various countries, I've more or loess given up trying to keep up with day to day changes in train service (let alone travel restrictions!), instead I'm concentrating on overhauling and improving all the European pages for when travel resumes. With no urgency to get the timetable update done quickly this year, I'm taking my time so please bear with me, Seat 61 should emerge an even better guide to train travel once we can all travel again, particularly the city to city pages where I am adding missing routes and extra options.
December 2020
Though with multiple lockdowns in various countries, I have given up trying to keep up with this for the next month or two...
Covid-19: A strange Seat 61 timetable update...
On Seat 61 I aim to show the 'clean' timetable so people can plan their journeys, often without a specific date in mind and often beyond the period for which trains are open for booking. The 'clean' timetable is the normal timetable that usually applies on any given day, all other things being equal. The 'dirty' timetable is the actual timetable for each specific date in the year with alterations due to engineering work, flood, fire, landslip or strike, some known way in advance, some applied short term.
The line between 'clean' and 'dirty' is already blurred, for example long-term repair work in the Karawanks Tunnel this year means the Munich-Zagreb sleeper is cancelled until July, and the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper is diverted not calling at Ljubljana and a later arrival in Zagreb. Such long-term planned work effectively becomes part of the 'clean' timetable and I attempt to show this on Seat 61. However, Covid-19 alterations have taken the quest for the 2021 'clean' timetable to a whole new level...
The German, Austrian and Czech railways make it easy for me in much of central Europe. The Germans load timetable data for the whole year (13 Dec 2020 to 11 Dec 2021) which I can see using their all-Europe online timetable at bahn.de/en - even beyond the 60/90/120/180 day period for which European trains are open for booking. Furthermore, they load the complete normal timetable, then remove any trains they aren't running due to covid-19 for the actual period they think they won't be running them, in other words the next 2-3 months. So by looking at dates from around April onwards I can see the 'clean' timetable without covid-19 service reductions - assuming of course I check that I've picked a 'typical' date to look at, not an odd one with a temporary alteration!
The French Railways make it difficult. Their own website only shows trains up to their booking horizon 92 days from now. Using bahn.de/en I can see what they have loaded into MERITS, but they only load data until July. And they are only loading the trains they plan to run during the pandemic, so even if I look in July all I can see is one morning Paris-Barcelona TGV as that's all that's running now, even though I know perfectly well that the 'clean' timetable has 2 trains each way all year and 2 additionals in summer. So on Seat 61 I'm still going to show 2 TGVs each way for 2021, with a question mark over the additionals, and have had to assume that the timings of the missing afternoon TGV remains as per 2020.
Similarly, Trenitalia seem to have a very odd morning service from Milan to Bari at the moment (important on Seat 61 for ferry connections to Greece & Albania). An 07:05 Intercity taking 10 hours? Really?? Where's the fast 07:35 Frecciarossa? Looks to me like a covid-19 temporary timetable. But looking a little further ahead I see no morning trains at all which means the data is almost certainly still incomplete, knowing that Trenitalia often loads random blocks of trains at a time with whole parts of the day's service missing. And looking even further ahead, trying to find a post-pandemic normal timetable, there are no trains at all, so that doesn't help. In Spain, the situation is similar, with trains such as the afternoon San Sebastian to Madrid Alvia missing due to covid-19 but no way to find the 'clean' timetable that the current reduced service is reduced from.
So... I am over half way through updating the site for 2021, in readiness for an end or at least easing of this awful pandemic at some point. I have already integrated the known major changes for 2021, such as the extension of the Dusseldorf-Munich/Innsbruck/Vienna Nightjet to Amsterdam. the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet 3 times a week, and the new faster more frequent service between Zurich & Munich (and not forgetting the Karawanks tunnel closure!). I have implemented most of the easy-to-confirm timing changes for Germany/Austria/Czech/central Europe, thanks to Bahn.de/en.
However, for France, Italy, Spain I have had to make a lot of assumptions that the 'clean' timetable for 2021 remains similar to previous years. And of course data for the extremities - Belgrade-Sofia, Bucharest-Istanbul, Warsaw-Vilnius - almost never appears before the timetable change date in any case, so they always get confirmed last, often after the new timetable period has already started! There's also a big question mark over Nice-Milan, where the media is full of reports of Thello's demise, but Thello trains have now appeared in the booking system for dates after 13 December, which is good, but Thello themselves are steadfastly refusing to say anything about what's happening.
The excellent printed European Rail Timetable often helps here. But the winter edition has been deferred until January. I wonder if they've had similar problems?
Finally, Eurostar: I'm not even sure they've bothered compiling a 'clean' timetable for 2021, they having a tough time of it and making up a timetable week by week, in lockdown running just 1 train per day to Paris and 1 to Brussels & Amsterdam. So I've made it easy for myself, and left the 2020 Eurostar timings as the 'clean' timetable for 2021, anticipating that a revived post-pandemic timetable will be broadly similar to that.
Fingers crossed that we'll all be able to do at least some travelling in the second half of 2021!
Timetable change in December: What are the major changes?
As usual, the timetable changes across Europe on the 2nd Saturday in December.
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Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam! The nightjet sleeper from Dusseldorf to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna is extended to start in Amsterdam, every day. Update: Due to coronavirus lockdowns, the start of operation to/from Amsterdam has been postponed by a month or two.
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The Brussels-Vienna nightjet is increased in frequency from 2 per week to 3. However, there won't be a Brussels-Munich/Innsbruck portion any more. Due to coronavirus lockdowns, the resumption of the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet has been postponed by a month or two.
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The Berlin-Wroclaw-Katowice-Krakow EuroCity train Wawel is finally reinstated, with restaurant car.
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Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be replaced by bullet-nosed ETR610 trains, frequency will be doubled to 6 trains per day each way & journey time cut to 4 hours, with further cuts in journey time to come.
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Zurich-Milan EuroCity trains have journey time cut from 3h40 to 3h17 by the new Ceneri Base Tunnel, with frequency increased from 6 trains per day to 10.
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3 additional Vienna-Budapest train pairs means departures every hour, no longer any gaps during the day.
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The Zurich/Munich to Budapest EuroNight sleeper train will have a restaurant car attached between Salzburg & Budapest in both directions, to serve breakfast eastbound and dinner westbound.
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Thello day trains Nice-Milan look set to be withdrawn, so you'll need to change at Ventimiglia and buy two tickets.
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It's looking like the Belgrade-Sofia direct train won't run in summer 2021. I doubt the Belgrade-Thessaloniki one will either.
Odds & ends this months...
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Rumours that Thello would end its Nice-Milan trains with the start of the new timetable on 13 December seem premature. Two Nice-Milan trains appear in the booking system after 13 December, although after New Year this dwindles to one out of the usual 3. If Thello continues, even with 1 train a day each way, that suggests the normal 3 per day could return after the pandemic.
November 2020
Though with multiple lockdowns in various countries, I have given up trying to keep up with this for the next month or two...
Timetable change in December: What are the major changes?
As usual, the timetable changes across Europe on the 2nd Saturday in December.
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Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam! The nightjet sleeper from Dusseldorf to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna is extended to start in Amsterdam, every day. Update: Due to coronavirus lockdowns, the start of operation to/from Amsterdam has been postponed by a month or two.
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The Brussels-Vienna nightjet is increased in frequency from 2 per week to 3. However, there won't be a Brussels-Munich/Innsbruck portion any more. Due to coronavirus lockdowns, the resumption of the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet has been postponed by a month or two.
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The Berlin-Wroclaw-Katowice-Krakow EuroCity train Wawel is finally reinstated, with restaurant car.
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Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be replaced by bullet-nosed ETR610 trains, frequency will be doubled to 6 trains per day each way & journey time cut to 4 hours, with further cuts in journey time to come.
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Zurich-Milan EuroCity trains have journey time cut from 3h40 to 3h17 by the new Ceneri Base Tunnel, with frequency increased from 6 trains per day to 10.
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3 additional Vienna-Budapest train pairs means departures every hour, no longer any gaps during the day.
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The Zurich/Munich to Budapest EuroNight sleeper train will have a restaurant car attached between Salzburg & Budapest in both directions, to serve breakfast eastbound and dinner westbound.
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Thello day trains Nice-Milan look set to be withdrawn, so you'll need to change at Ventimiglia and buy two tickets.
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It's looking like the Belgrade-Sofia direct train won't run in summer 2021.
Odds & ends this month...
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You may spot changes to seat61.com URLs and bookmarks/anchor links from top-of-page menus to content in the page. I have updated many of them, to remove bookmarks with spaces, make them all-lower-case where possible and make them more user-friendly.
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The DB (German Railways) website now has a cheapest-fare-finder built into its normal booking system, to tell you where in the day to find the cheapest trains, try it at int.bahn.de.
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The Chinese Railways website www.12306.cn now has an English version, after years of being Chinese-only. But unless that's changed too, it only accepts Chinese-issued bank cards, so visitors can't use it.
October 2020
Timetable change in December: What are the major changes?
As usual, the timetable changes across Europe on the 2nd Saturday in December. Bookings for dates after the timetable change will open on 13 October for German trains, around the same time for Austrian trains, on 21 September for Thalys, and probably around that time for French trains. Significant changes expected from 13 Dec include:
- Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam! The nightjet sleeper from Dusseldorf to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna is extended to start in Amsterdam, every day.
- The Brussels-Vienna nightjet is increased in frequency from 2 per week to 3. However, there won't be a Brussels-Munich/Innsbruck portion any more.
- The Berlin-Wroclaw-Katowice-Krakow EuroCity train Wawel is finally reinstated.
- Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be replaced by bullet-nosed ETR610 trains, frequency will be doubled to 6 trains per day each way & journey time cut to 4 hours, with further cuts in journey time to come.
- Zurich-Milan EuroCity trains have journey time cut from 3h40 to 3h17 by the new Ceneri Base Tunnel, with frequency increased from 6 trains per day to 10.
- 3 additional Vienna-Budapest train pairs means departures every hour, no longer any gaps during the day.
- Thello day trains Nice-Milan look set to be withdrawn, so you'll need to change at Ventimiglia and buy two tickets.
- It's looking like the Belgrade-Sofia direct train won't run in summer 2021.
Thello set to withdraw Nice-Milan trains...
Thello is unlikely ever to resume its Paris-Milan-Venice sleeper train, and has now said it is likely to withdraw its Nice-Genoa-Milan daytime trains from 2021 too. That means going back to French TER trains running from Nice to Ventimiglia and Trenitalia Intercity trains running Ventimiglia-Genoa-Milan, making everyone change trains at the border and buy two tickets. This is utterly crazy - if European train operators cannot get their act together, they don't deserve to succeed. It remains to be seen if this also means the end of the planned Milan-Paris daytime Frecciarossa trains, which have been on test in France.
Odds & ends this month...
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Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) is winding up its long-standing UK 0871 phone number from 31 October, and replacing it with a German 0049 number for English speakers. I have updated the various 'How to buy tickets by phone sections accordingly.
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It is of course possible to travel from Paris to Budapest, Paris to Bratislava, Bratislava to Brussels or Bratislava to Amsterdam in a single day by train (and vice vsera), and I have added details for that option to the relevant pages, correcting an omission!
September 2020
The travel situation is explained on the COVID-19 information page. Trains are running pretty normally in much of Europe, but there are restrictions for UK & other travellers.
Timetable change in December: What are the major changes?
As usual, the timetable changes across Europe on the 2nd Saturday in December. Bookings for dates after the timetable change will open on 13 October for German trains, around the same time for Austrian trains, on 21 September for Thalys, and probably around that time for French trains. Significant changes expected from 13 Dec include:
- Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam! The nightjet sleeper from Dusseldorf to Munich, Innsbruck & Vienna is extended to start in Amsterdam, every day.
- The Brussels-Vienna nightjet is increased in frequency from 2 per week to 3. However, there won't be a Brussels-Munich/Innsbruck portion any more.
- The Berlin-Wroclaw-Katowice-Krakow EuroCity train Wawel is finally reinstated.
- Zurich-Munich EuroCity trains will be replaced by bullet-nosed ETR610 trains, frequency will be doubled to 6 trains per day each way & journey time cut to 4 hours, with further cuts in journey time to come.
- Zurich-Milan EuroCity trains have journey time cut from 3h40 to 3h17 by the new Ceneri Base Tunnel, with frequency increased from 6 trains per day to 10.
- 3 additional Vienna-Budapest train pairs means departures every hour, no longer any gaps during the day.
Interrail & Eurail global passes go mobile...
From 21 September, Interrail & Eurail global passes are available as 'mobile' passes which sit in an app on your smartphone - as well as in classic printed form. No postage costs or delivery delay with a mobile pass! FAQs are here: www.interrail.eu/.../interrail.../mobile-pass-faq. A key requirement is to connect the app to the internet at least every 3 days to update it and keep the pass valid. I doubt this is a big deal. But the timezone thing, where a midnight to midnight pass day is always measured in Central European Time even when you're in a country where CET-1 or CET+1 applies - a thing I think only applies to these new mobile passes - looks like it might cause some fun & games! They launched a mobile version of the single-country pass for Italy a little while ago, so have been gaining experience with that. This is the most important pass, the global one covering all the participating countries. And don't ask me why a pass covering much of Europe is called 'global'. It just is, OK?!
Regiojet's summer Prague-Rijeka night train a massive success...
Regiojet’s Prague-Rijeka night train has been a massive success: 60,000 passengers have been carried, 90% occupancy on a 500-passenger train. This one train has achieved a 6% market share of all travel between the Czech Republic and Croatia. 10% of passengers were to or from Bratislava, 90% to or from the Czech Republic. It’ll return in summer 2021 with a longer season starting from May. See press article (in Czech).
Odds & ends this month...
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I've updated the Train travel in China page to reflect that all high-speed trains and 90% of classic trains are now e-ticketed, where you open platform access gates with your passport, no need for a paper ticket.
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I've added a suggested London-Salzburg journey using the Brussels-Wels (-Vienna) Nightjet, rectifying an omission there.
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I've added a suggested London to Berlin journey by Eurostar to Amsterdam & overnight stop, now that Eurostar is about to start direct Amsterdam-London trains from 26 October. It's slower & less direct than via Brussels & Cologne, but only 1 change, allows departure from London at the end of the working day, it can be cheaper, and what's not to like about a stopover in Amsterdam?
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I've added the daily 08:54 departure in the London to Vienna in a single day section on the London to Austria page - in addition to the 06:47 Mon-Fri & 06:57 Saturday departure. I had held off suggesting the later departure as it involves a 20-minute connection in Brussels and the last Frankfurt-Vienna train of the day, so no wiggle room if the Eurostar is delayed. However, as people will find it on booking systems anyway, I thought it better to show it, with a note explaining the risks.
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Slovenia has dropped off the 'safe' list for UK travellers.
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Ouigo has added China, Brazil, Iceland and Norway to the list of countries whose credit cards it will accept for payment. Still bad luck if you're from New Zealand or most of Asia, Africa & South America. Ouigo page updated...
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I've added a London to Croatia journey via the Harwich-Hoek ferry, and will add one to the London-Slovenia page in due course. Ideally, every destination country should have an option via both Eurostar and a ferry alternative.
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The daily direct Barcelona-Granada train resumes after suspension on 5 October, but is re-timed. I have adjusted the timings accordingly on the London-Spain page.
August 2020
I'll continue to update the train travel situation on the COVID-19 information page. We can now travel freely to much of Europe...
At last! Direct Amsterdam to London Eurostars to start from 26 October.
Eurostar have been running direct eastbound trains from London to Amsterdam since April 2018, but have been unable to operate direct eastbound trains from Amsterdam to London because the necessary agreements were not in place to do border formalities and Tunnel security in Rotterdam and Amsterdam Centraal. This was due to be resolved and direct westbound Eurostars start on 30 April this year. However, coronavirus intervened and this was postponed. I'm glad to say that inwards Amsterdam to Lon don Eurostars will finally start from 26 October, with border formalities undertaken in the new Eurostar terminal at the end of platform 15 at Amsterdam Centraal and in the new Eurostar terminal at Rotterdam Centraal.
Sleeper trains return to Amsterdam in December!
It's now confirmed that with the December timetable change ÖBB (Austrian Railways) will extend its Dusseldorf-Munich/Innsbruck/Vienna Nightjet to start in Amsterdam, also calling at Utrecht and Arnhem. In more good news, the twice-weekly Brussels-Munich/Innsbruck/Vienna Nightjet will become 3 times a week. On the days it doesn't run, the 11:04 London to Amsterdam Eurostar will allow one-change connection with the Amsterdam Nightjet instead.
It's also reported SBB (Swiss Railways) are planning to reinstate an Amsterdam to Zurich sleeper, from December 2021.
ÖBB has 13 7-car sleeper trains on order from Siemens, to replace older cars that don't meet stringent new Italian regulations, releasing good-quality existing cars for other routes including increased capacity and possible new routes. ÖBB have now been allowed to order 20 more such trains, and their CEO has said he'd like to run a Vienna-Paris sleeper from 2024.
Meanwhile, the Swedish government is pressing ahead with a tender for a new sleeper train from Malmo & Copenhagen to Cologne and possibly Brussels to start from August 2022.
How risky is a train journey?
Preliminary research by @RSSB_rail suggests chance of getting COVID-19 from a train journey is just 1 in 11,000. That's without factoring in face coverings. It also seems that air-con carriages are better than non-air-con ones. See my Twitter feed, twitter.com/seatsixtyone.
Regiojet extends Prague-Vienna trains to Budapest...
Two Regiojet trains per day from Prague to Vienna have been extended to Budapest from 31 July, in competition with the existing trains run by the national rail operators. Fares from Prague to Budapest from €16, Vienna to Budapest from €9. I've updated the relevant pages to show this new cheap option.
July 2020
I'll continue to update the train travel situation on the COVID-19 information page. We may soon be able to travel...
Brits can now travel abroad!
From 10 July (or even from 4 July, if you don't plan to return to the UK before 10 July), UK nationals can freely visit France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany, Czech Republic, Poland. even for tourism, without restriction. Eurostar is running (albeit with a reduced but increasing service) and most European train services are almost back to normal. For details of what's changed, what you can now do, and what trains are and aren't running, see the COVID-19 information page,
Eurostar increases fares, but with new flexibility...
Eurostar fares from London to Paris & Brussels increased from 1 July from their long-standing cheapest rates of £46 one-way, £58 return to a new cheapest fare of £52 one-way & £78 return. I have now updated seat61 to reflect that. However, until the end of this year, all Eurostar fares can be changed to another departure or date with no change fee (just the difference in fare) up until 14 days before departure. This is to give people more confidence booking during the pandemic.
No direct Eurostar to the South of France in 2020 or 2021...
Eurostar have said it will not run it's direct train from London to Lyon, Avignon or Marseille either this year or (more surprisingly) next year. They cite the difficulty of running a longer-distance train without catering and with compulsory mask wearing during the pandemic.
Regiojet's Prague-Bratislava-Ljubljana/Rijeka sleeper train a rip-roaring success...
Regiojet's new overnight train from Prague & Bratislava to Ljubljana & Rijeka has surprised even the operator themselves. 30,000 tickets were sold to Czech holidaymakers within days of tickets going on sale, and many departures are now sold out - and that's with 560-seat/berth trains. Regiojet have reacted by increasing departures from 3 times per week to every day. See www.railjournal.com/regions/europe/regiojet.
June 2020
Russia & Belarus sign visa agreement...
At long last, Russia & Belarus have agreed that from 1 July 2020 they will recognise each other's visas. You'll be able to get a Russian visa, and this will also cover you for entering and crossing Belarus to reach Moscow. First, this removes the current technical illegality of travelling to Russia via Belarus - it had been officially illegal, but tolerated (mostly) if you used the direct Russian trains from Paris-Berlin, Warsaw or Prague to Moscow. Second, you'll now only need one visa not two, removing the a major hassle of obtaining a second visa to cover transit through Belarus.
Trans-Siberian changes from July...
In the midst of the COVID-19 disruption, Russian domestic trains are still running and a significant change will affect Moscow-Vladivostok train 1/2, the famous Rossiya, from July 2020.
Train 1/2 Rossiya has always been the fastest train between Moscow & Vladivostok, taking 7 nights. Currently it only runs every two days and there is a second slower train between Moscow & Vladivostok, train 99/100 running every day, making around 70 more station stops than the Rossiya and taking 8 nights. Train 99/100 has been gradually re-equipped with the very latest cars, and from 9 July 2020 this slower train 99/100 will be renumbered 1/2 and become the Rossiya, whilst the former faster train 1/2 will be renumbered 61/62 and become nameless.
So travellers now have a choice between riding the famous Rossiya, train 1 westbound & train 2 eastbound with daily departures and the latest rolling stock, but taking 8 nights, or riding nameless train 61/62 running only 3 days a week with slightly older rolling stock, but with 70 fewer stops, taking only 7 nights from Moscow to Vladivostok and saving a whole day & night. Personally, I'd take the Rossiya, for the name as well as the hot shower in every car!
April 2020
Coronavirus update...
Since 17 March, the UK Foreign Office advises against all non-essential travel from the UK to anywhere globally, see www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice. Everyone is advised to stay at home...
Most European & worldwide countries are now in lockdown, with no international trains and reduced domestic trains. Only EU citizens are allowed to enter the EU.
To check which countries have closed their borders, which countries require you to self-isolate for 14 days on arrival & so on, see www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.
With everywhere affected worldwide, I won't be putting individual warning notes on all 367 pages on this site, so for real time info in a very fluid situation, please check the website of the relevant train operator or ask your ticket retailer.
Tip: If you run an enquiry on the relevant journey planner (the one you'd normally use to buy tickets for that particular route or train), if you see prices and can buy tickets then it's running, if it says cancelled or doesn't show up, it isn't running. You'll find a more detailed list of what's running and what's not here.
Eurostar is still running a skeleton service between London and Paris/Brussels, just 1 or 2 services a day for essential travel by UK/EU residents only. No direct trains to/from Amsterdam.
Brittany Ferries has suspended all sailings UK-France. DFDS has suspended their Newcastle-Amsterdam ferry.
Many European cross-border trains suspended. Reduced train service in most European countries.
Thailand, Vietnam, Russia, Canada, USA all running drastically reduced train services, cross-border trains (including Trans-Siberian trains between Russia, Mongolia & China all suspended until further notice.
March 2020
Coronavirus update...
From 17 March, the UK Foreign Office advise against all non-essential travel from the UK to anywhere globally, see www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.
Many European & worldwide countries are now in lockdown, with no international trains and reduced domestic trains. Only EU/UK citizens are allowed to enter the EU. To check which countries have closed their borders, which countries require you to self-isolate for a fortnight on arrival, and so on, see www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.
With everywhere affected worldwide, I won't be putting individual warning notes on all 367 pages on this site, so for real time info in a very fluid situation, please ask your ticket retailer and/or check the website of the relevant train operator.
Tip: If you run an enquiry on the relevant journey planner (the one you'd normally use to buy tickets for that particular route or train), if you see prices and can buy tickets then it's running, if it says cancelled or doesn't show up, it isn't running. You'll find a more detailed list of what's running and what's not here.
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Eurostar is still running a skeleton service between London and Paris/Brussels, just 2 or 3 services a day for essential travel by UK/EU residents only. No direct trains to/from Amsterdam.
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Many British train routes have a reduced service, including Caledonian Sleeper who are running just one not two trains per night each way, with just London-Inverness and London-Glasgow portions.
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From 17 March, Germany closed its borders with France, Denmark, Austria, Switzerland, so no international trains there. Spain has also closed its land borders.
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Nightjet sleepers between Munich/Vienna & Milan/Florence/Rome/Venice are cancelled until at least early April.
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Thello has halted its Paris-Milan-Venice sleeper and Nice-Genoa-Milan day trains until at least early April.
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EuroCity trains between Munich/Innsbruck & Italy via the Brenner route will not operate south of Innsbruck from 10 March onwards until further notice.
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Switzerland-Milan international trains running, but a proportion cancelled, and the two daily trains that normally run beyond Milan to/from Venice aren't running between Milan & Venice.
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High-speed Trenitalia & Italo trains in Italy are reduced in number, with government travel restrictions in place within Italy. Only essential travel permitted.
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All international trains to/from the Czech Republic cancelled for 30 days from 13 March. Czech borders closed to many nationalities. Slovakia now affected too.
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Berlin - Vienna/Krakow/Budapest/Przemysl sleeper train cancelled from 13 March onwards.
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Austria-Switzerland international trains cancelled from 13 March onwards. Hamburg/Berlin-Zurich sleeper also affected.
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Vienna-Salzburg Westbahn trains cut from hourly to every 2 hours from 13 March.
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Russian Railways weekly Moscow-Nice train (which crosses northern Italy) cancelled until further notice. Paris-Moscow also now cancelled.
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Sofia-Istanbul sleeper train now suspended from 12 March.
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From 15 March, no cross-border trains to/from Poland & to/from Ukraine.
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From 16 March, no cross-border trains to or from Denmark.
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No trains at all in Slovenia, no international trains to or from Croatia.
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SNCF running a reduced 80% service within France.
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Trans-Siberian trains between Russia & Mongolia/China are suspended. Trains between Vietnam & China are also suspended. Trans-Asia Express from Ankara to Tabriz & Tehran suspended. Reduced service in Vietnam, no trains at all from 26 March Hanoi-Lao Cai.
Odds & ends this month...
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In Vietnam, the daily Saigon-Phan Thiet train has been reduced to running Fri, Sat, Sun only.
February 2020
Irun - Vigo Camino de Santiago...
The long-established Camino de Santiago intercity train between Bilbao/Irun and Vigo/A Coruna is to be withdrawn from 3 March 2020 due to asbestos being found in the vehicles used on this service. It's now the only remaining conventional locomotive-hauled train in Spain, all others being high-speed train, or electric or diesel multiple units, or articulated Talgo/Altaria trains. It's not clear if Renfe have any intention of replacing it with alternative stock, either immediately or even in due course. Update: It now seems the train will be replaced with an articulated Talgo train, with two classes and a cafeteria. As such, it'll be an improvement, although the train will run Irun & San Sebastian to Santiago & A Coruna, with a separate connection from Bilbao and a connection to Vigo.
South Africa halts trains...
The rail safety authority has issued a directive which has forced Shosholoza Meyl to halt all long-distance trains in South Africa, including Shosholoza Meyl and Premier Classe. It's supposed to be temporary, but not clear how long this will last.
Corona virus halts trains...
Trans-Siberian trains to & from China, the Hanoi-Nanning train, and all trains between Hong Kong and mainland China are all halted temporarily this month due to the Corona Virus.
DBS ferry Vladivostok-Korea-Japan ceases...
The ferry linking Vladivostok with South Korea and Japan has ceased operation, reportedly permanently. To reach Japan you now need to divert via Beijing and one of the Chinese ports - of would do, were it not for the Corona Virus at the moment. This is not the first time this ferry has ceased operations. FESCO, which I travelled with in 1998 and which started life under the USSR, gave up, to be replaced a while afterwards by this DBS ferry. It's always possible some ferry with be resurrected in due course, but not in the immediate future perhaps.
Direct Amsterdam-London Eurostars start 30 April!
Eurostars have been running direct trains from London to Amsterdam for almost 2 years now, but in the inwards direction passengers have had to take a Thalys from Amsterdam to Brussels, go through normal Eurostar check-in at Brussels Midi, then take a Eurostar from Brussels to London. Agreements with Dutch, Belgian and UK authorities are now in place for passport and check-in to happen in the Netherlands, and Eurostar have finally announced that direct Amsterdam to London trains will start on 30 April, with Rotterdam to London journeys possible from 18 May as they still have some work to do on the Eurostar terminal at Rotterdam Centraal. Tickets go on sale from 11 February. There will be two direct Amsterdam to London Eurostars per day, soon rising to three, then four and hopefully from December 2020, five. I rode the press preview train on 4 February, taking just over 4 hours city centre to city centre.
Brussels-Vienna/Munich/Innsbruck sleeper train is go...
The first direct Nightjet sleeper train from Brussels to Vienna, Munich & Innsbruck left on 20 January, with the Man in Seat 61 on board (but of course!). This excellent new train is initially twice a week, Monday & Thursday from Brussels, Sunday and Wednesday in the other direction, and not in July & August, but it should become daily all year from the timetable change in December when an Amsterdam portion should also start.
Odds & ends this month...
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Turkey is dropping the requirement for UK & EU citizens to pay for a visa, from a date in March.
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The Czech Railways website cd.cz will now sell tickets from Prague to Lviv and Kiev online with cheap First Minute prices including sleeping berth. Prague to Ukraine section updated accordingly.
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In Indonesia, Banyuwangi Baru station has been renamed Ketapang. This makes sense, as the station is a few hundred metres from Ketapang ferry terminal for the ferries to Bali. So both ferry terminal and station now called Ketapang.
January 2020
Eurail & Interrail pass changes...
The Eurail team based in Utrecht have made more positive changes to the range of Eurail passes (for overseas visitors) and Interrail passes (for European residents).
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The 3-day pass is replaced by a 4-day pass costing only very slightly more.
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Latvia and Estonia join both Interrail & Eurail schemes.
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The Paris-Venice Thello sleeper train and Milan-Genoa-Nice-Marseille Thello day trains are now covered by these passes.
December 2019
New high-speed line opened to the Great Wall of China...
The new Beijing North to Zhangjiakou high-speed line opened on 30 December, with an underground high-speed station at Badaling for the Great Wall. I've yet to add any detail, as none of the English-0language booking sites yet list Badaling Changcheng or show these new trains, but this will come in due course. I still think a turn-up-and-go trip on the historic line is a nicer experience, but why not go one way out and back the other? See the Great Wall of China page.
Rail & Sail services to Belfast via Cairnryan slashed to one a day...
Stena Line has withdrawn two out of three daily round trips by its transfer bus between Ayr and the ferry terminal at Cairnryan, which means that the three daily rail & sail services between Scotland and Belfast are cut to just one a day. Half a dozen ferry departures still operate daily, frequent trains still run between Glasgow and Ayr, yet these journey opportunities disappear for the lack of an Ayr-Cairnryan transfer bus to link train with ferry. At a time more people want to avoid flying, this is unacceptable. The remaining one service a day can be seen on the Northern Ireland page.
New timetable from 15 December 2019...
As always, all European timetables change at midnight on the 2nd Saturday in December. I have started updating this site, although some information will remain to be updated until nearer the time. Here's a list of significant changes...
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TGV-Lyria are withdrawing the Geneva-Marseille TGV, except for a few weeks in summer, having cut it back from Nice to Marseille last year. All journeys from Geneva will now mean a change in Lyon or elsewhere.
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TGV-Lyria are also discontinuing the direct Paris-Bern TGV. You now need to change in Basel on all departures.
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TGV-Lyria are due to switch to an all-double-deck TGV Duplex fleet from December, meaning 33% more seats per day, and hopefully more cheaper fares.
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The Cologne-Vienna/Munich/Innsbruck Nightjet sleeper train will be extended to start from Brussels, initially twice a week from January 19, with a portion for Amsterdam starting in December 2020 when the Brussels portion will become daily This would be great news for passengers from London & UK.
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From June, Regiojet plan to extend a Prague-Vienna train to Budapest, bringing competition to the Prague-Budapest route for the first time.
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From 4 May 2020, ÖBB/CD/DB will operate a direct railjet from Vienna to Berlin via Prague and Dresden, in addition to the recently-introduced ICE Vienna-Berlin via Nuremberg and Vienna-Berlin sleeper. There were no direct trains a year or two ago, there will soon be three every day!
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Westbahn have sold half their fleet to German Railways, so are cutting their half hourly Vienna-Salzburg service back to hourly, only running from Vienna Westbahnhof, no longer from Vienna Hbf.
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There's talk of Trenitalia starting Paris-Turin-Milan Frecciarossa 1000s from a date in mid- or late-2020, although not with the start of the new timetable. Tests have been carried out on the French network with these trains.
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ÖBB are adding a direct Vienna-Bolzano train, via Innsbruck, also a direct Vienna-Satu Mare (Romania) portion to the existing train Vienna-Cluj.
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The three Milan-Nice Thello trains continue, but it will be the middle train (11:10 from Milan, 11:28 from Marseille) which is extended to/from Marseille, rather than the last one (15:10 from Milan and 15:26 from Marseille. The extended Marseille train will run daily all year, rather than daily in summer and weekends-only off-season, which is good news.
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The Hamburg-Copenhagen service is re-routed via Kolding (for Legoland) and Odense, no longer going on the Puttgarden-Rødby train ferry. A shame, as the train ferry was an experience, but the service will be slightly faster (even though it's slightly longer) and can be increased from 3 cars to 6, no longer limited in length by the ferry crossing.
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The Vienna/Munich/Salzburg - Milan Nightjet sleeper train is switched to Milan Porta Garibaldi rather than Centrale, but on the plus side arrives 08:10 southbound rather than 09:12.
Odds & ends this month...
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I've added timings & advice for using Novi Beograd station in the main places I mention the Zagreb-Belgrade train, as a seat61 correspondent has pointed out that Novi Beograd is a similar distance from the city centre (and from my favourite Hotel Moskva) as the infamous Belgrade Centar, but has better transport links in the form of tram lines 7 & 9 direct from Novi Beograd station to the site of the old defunct central station next to the city centre. See the Belgrade stations page.
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The Moscow & St Petersburg to Tallinn train has reduced to 3 times a week outside the summer and key holiday periods.
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It's now possible to book a seat for dinner in the restaurant car for dinner on the Paris-Venice Thello sleeper train. I have added this info to the Thello sleeper train page.
November 2019
DBS ferry Vladivostok-Korea-Japan in danger?...
One report suggests this ferry service won't run from now until February 2020, and may not even resume then. This is allegedly down to worsening Korea-Japan relations. It will still be possible to use the Trans-Siberian to reach Japan, but this will mean going via Beijing and Shanghai, with an extra visa required.
Loco2 rebranded as Raileurope.com...
At 06:00 on 5 November, Loco2.com rebranded as Raileurope.com. Same system, same connectivity, same excellent support staff in London. Not to be confused with Raileurope.com in the USA & Canada, or Raileurope 4A serving Asia, Africa, Australia, South America. It's all explained here...
New timetable from 15 December 2019...
As always, all European timetables change at midnight on the 2nd Saturday in December. I have started updating this site, although some information will remain to be updated until nearer the time. Here's a list of significant changes...
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TGV-Lyria are withdrawing the Geneva-Marseille TGV, except for a few weeks in summer, having cut it back from Nice to Marseille last year. All journeys from Geneva will now mean a change in Lyon or elsewhere.
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TGV-Lyria are due to switch to an all-double-deck TGV Duplex fleet from December, meaning 33% more seats per day, and hopefully more cheaper fares.
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The Cologne-Vienna/Munich/Innsbruck Nightjet sleeper train will be extended to start from Brussels, initially twice a week from January 19, with a portion for Amsterdam starting in December 2020 when the Brussels portion will become daily This would be great news for passengers from London & UK.
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Regiojet plan to extend a Prague-Vienna train to Budapest, bringing competition to the Prague-Budapest route for the first time.
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From 4 May 2020, ÖBB/CD/DB will operate a direct railjet from Vienna to Berlin via Prague and Dresden, in addition to the recently-introduced ICE Vienna-Berlin via Nuremberg and Vienna-Berlin sleeper. There were no direct trains a year or two ago, there will soon be three every day!
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Westbahn have sold half their fleet to German Railways, so are cutting their half hourly Vienna-Salzburg service back to hourly, only running from Vienna Westbahnhof, no longer from Vienna Hbf.
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There's talk of Trenitalia starting Paris-Turin-Milan Frecciarossa 1000s from a date in mid- or late-2020, although not with the start of the new timetable. Tests have been carried out on the French network with these trains.
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ÖBB are adding a direct Vienna-Bolzano train, via Innsbruck, also a direct Vienna-Satu Mare (Romania) portion to the existing train Vienna-Cluj.
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The three Milan-Nice Thello trains continue, but it will be the middle train (11:10 from Milan, 11:28 from Marseille) which is extended to/from Marseille, rather than the last one (15:10 from Milan and 15:26 from Marseille. The extended Marseille train will run daily all year, rather than daily in summer and weekends-only off-season, which is good news.
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The Hamburg-Copenhagen service is re-routed via Kolding (for Legoland) and Odense, no longer going on the Puttgarden-Rødby train ferry. A shame, as the train ferry was an experience, but the service will be slightly faster (even though it's slightly longer) and can be increased from 3 cars to 6, no longer limited in length by the ferry crossing.
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The through car Vienna-Krakow is replaced by a whole train Graz-Vienna-Krakow-Przemysl.
Odds & ends this month...
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Completely new timetable introduced this month on the new Chinese-built railway between Ethiopia and Djibouti, with reduced speed & frequency in the light of experience. See the Ethiopia page.
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The twice-daily direct Trieste-Ljubljana service appears to have been split in two, with an Italian train Trieste-Villa Opicina and a Slovenian train Villa Opicina to Ljubljana. It's not clear why, although the Slovenians say it's a 'problem on the Italian side'.
October 2019
End of DB First Class Lounges from 15 Dec 2019.
Not really the end, of course, but it may as well be. From 15 December, you can no longer access DB first class lounges with any form of advance-purchase Sparpreis or Supersparpreis 1st class fare, only the most expensive full-flex Flexpreis 1st class fares. Which really just restricts them to German businessmen. I will try to show an alternative 'lounge' at main interchange points in the form of a cafe, bar, restaurant in or near the station that can be used between trains.
DB Sparpreis London to be discontinued from January 2020.
DB (German Railways) is being forced to discontinue its Sparpreis London through tickets between London and Germany, Basel & Salzburg, originally from November 2019, now with a stay of execution until mid-January 2020. DB say this is due to Eurostar 'changing its systems' so it is unable to access the necessary seat reservations on Eurostar.
This means that journeys between London and Germany can no longer be made on through tickets from €59.90 (or €69.90 for longer journeys such as London Munich or Berlin). Instead, you'll need a normal Eurostar ticket London-Brussels from £44 one-way or £58 return then a Sparpreis Belgium fare from Brussels to Germany (Brussels-Cologne from €19, Frankfurt from €29).
The increase in cost will be much more significant that these cheapest prices suggest for those passengers booking weeks rather than months ahead. That's because Eurostar raise their own fares very sharply as departure date approaches, whereas although the Sparpreis London fares rise too, they rise much less sharply, so travel to Germany remains affordable and competitive with flights.
Not only will this increase the cost of train travel to Germany, it affects passenger rights if one of the tight 20-minute connections in Brussels is missed. With a through ticket, passengers have a cast-iron right to later onward travel at no charge if there's a delay and missed connection, including the right to a hotel if the last train of the day is missed. With separate tickets there is no such cast-iron protection, only the Railteam Promise (which doesn't include provision for a hotel if the last train is missed) and Agreement on Journey Continuation (AJC) apply, which are commercial arrangements between operators rather than actual passenger rights. Indeed, I believe Eurostar isn't even a signatory to the AJC, it has just said it will apply it in practice.
The EU Transport Committee is in the final stages of agreeing changes to passenger rights to provide protection for missed connections for passengers making through journeys even with separate tickets, yet European train operators are lobbying hard against it passing the final stage into law. Here we see operators circumventing existing passenger rights by discontinuing through tickets and forcing people to buy separate ones. The improvement in passenger rights to cover separate tickets is desperately needed if the rail network is to continue to be a network, and it multi-stage multi-operator journeys are not to become too risky.
DB have said they are working with Eurostar to make ticket buying as easy as possible from November onwards, and to agree arrangements for those connections in Brussels. Eurostar have said that they are committed to this market and hope to work out a solution with DB. I certainly hope something sensible emerges. This is a massive backward step for international train travel.
Caledonian Sleeper's old trains bow out...
The old Mk3 sleepers of 1980s vintage finally bowed out on 8 October. From 9 October, Caledonian Sleeper finally introduced its new Mk5 sleeper trains on its Highland route, meaning both its Lowland and Highland trains are entirely composed of the new vehicles. See the Caledonian Sleeper page.
Hoek of Holland metro finally operational...
The metro train service between Hoek van Holland and Schiedam Centrum is finally operational as from 30 September, as the project to convert the heavy rail line to light rail is completed. The temporary replacement bus service which has been running for two years will continue for a month as a backup, and will then be withdrawn. I have updated the UK-Netherlands page and the Harwich-Hoek sections on the UK-Germany, UK-Austria pages and so on.
Passholder reservations on Nightjet sleepers now possible online...
I'm delighted that Eurail & Interrail pass reservations can now be made online at the Austrian Railways website. I have added instructions here.
Odds & ends this month...
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In Sri Lanka, a new Chinese 'blue train' has been delivered allowing an additional service to be introduced every other day from Colombo to Hatton, Nanuoya, Elle and Badulla. It will become daily when a second unit is delivered.
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Eurail/Interrail passholder reservations for couchettes & sleepers on Austrian Nightjet trains can already be made online at the Austrian Railways website. This has now been extended to partner routes, including Munich-Zagreb, Munich-Budapest, Zurich-Zagreb, Zurich-Budapest, Vienna-Krakow/Warsaw, Vienna-Bucharest. Info added to the Interrail & Eurail reservations page.
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The Moroccan Railways ticketing website www.oncf.ma finally seems to be accepting overseas credit cards - several travellers from various countries have now reported success. Train travel in Morocco section updated.
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Yangon-Mandalay track upgrading work has started. A few trains cancelled, others retimed, I've posted an update on the Burma page although exact details and duration not yet known.
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After only a few months of the new 'reliable' every-2-days national train service in Cuba, a nationwide fuel shortage means revised schedules and a reduced every-4-days frequency, details now on the Cuba page.
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Business class is being introduced on some Malaysian Railways ETS services, with complimentary refreshments and luxurious seats arranged 2+1 across the car width. The first trains to get it are the 08:30 KL Sentral to Padang Besar and 15:40 Padang Besar to KL.
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My favourite cafe at Amsterdam Central, the 1e Klas, gives 30% discount to Eurail and Interrail holders who eat there. How did I miss that? Tip now added to the Amsterdam Centraal page!
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In Senegal, a local train service has been inaugurated from Dakar, but only for 22 miles inland, no sign of the express to Bamako resuming any time soon.
September 2019
New extra-large suitcase rules in Japan from May 2020...
From May 2020, new 'extra large luggage' rules will apply to the Tokaido, Kyushu & Sanyo shinkansen lines. Passengers with very large suitcases over 160 linear centimetres (linear cm = length + width + depth) will have to reserve a place for their suitcase at the same time they reserve their shinkansen seat. This will be free of charge, but there'll be a 1000 yen ($9) fine if they don't. This won't affect backpacks (or for that matter any bag I personally ever travel with), just the largest oversize cases. I have added a warning to the Japan page. More info at www.tsunagujapan.com/large-suitcases-shinkansen-policy.
New page: The Canadian...
The first output from my trip to Canada in August, I have added a new page dedicated to the Toronto-Winnipeg-Vancouver Canadian, replacing an all-too-brief section within the Canada page. As always, feedback and comments are gratefully received.
The trip to Canada has now also allowed me to significantly improve the Rocky Mountaineer page and New York to Toronto section of the Canada page.
Raileurope.com to rebrand as Rail Europe in November...
Raileurope.com was bought by SNCF (French Railways) some time ago and they have now announced that it will be rebranded as Rail Europe from 6 November 2019. More specifically, it will reappear as Raileurope.com, in German as Raileurope.de, Spanish as Raileurope.es and Italian as Raileurope.it.
There may be some confusion, as Raileurope.com will remain the website of Rail Europe Inc. based in New York serving the US and Canadian markets which is another separate SNCF subsidiary. Raileurope-world.com and Raileurope.com.au will remain the websites of yet another separate SNCF subsidiary, Rail Europe 4A based in Paris and serving Asia, Africa, Australia and South America (hence the 4A). Americans, Canadians, Africans, Asians & Australians who want to continue to enjoy Raileurope.com's features, facilities & capabilities will have to use Raileurope.com and avoid being diverted elsewhere.
Unfortunately, a £4.95 booking fee has now been introduced. It applies to your whole basket, not to each ticket, so it will pay to do all your tickets as one payment. It will take me some time to weed out every mention of 'no booking fee or mark-up' on this site whenever I mention Raileurope.com, please bear with me!
The Ankara-Tehran Trans-Asia Express resumes!
It was suspended in 2015 due to security concerns in eastern Turkey but now it's back. The weekly Trans-Asia Express between Ankara and Tehran resumed in August 2019, and is now shown on the Iran page.
Odds & ends this month...
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TCDD's free transfer bus between Halkali and Sirkeci run in connection with the trains to/from Sofia/Bucharest has ceased. Passengers now use the Marmaray suburban trains between central Istanbul and Halkali.
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Cuba's new 'reliable' train service has been hot by nationwide fuel shortages after only a month or two. Frequency of each train cut from every 3 days to every 4 days. Supposedly this is temporary, but in Cuba, that could mean anything...
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A new timetable has started in Vietnam, but only minor timing changes.
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Hungarian Railways have reinstated restaurant cars on several trains, including Vienna-Zahony on the Vienna-Lviv-Kiev sleeper train and Vienna-Budapest on the Vienna-Bucharest Dacia Express. I have reinstated mention of the dining car option in the relevant sections!
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The Saudi Railways site www.saudirailways.org is accessible again and offers online booking for Riyadh-Dammam, so I have revised the Saudi page accordingly.
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It's reported that the Shosholoza Meyl train between Jo'burg & Komatipoort with connections for Mozambique has been suspended, either temporarily or permanently, it's not clear. I have added a warning on both the South Africa page and the Mozambique page.
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I've revised the London--Greece page to show a 24h stopover in Belgrade in the eastbound direction. The change of train from 17:42 to 18:14 is simply not robust now it also means a change of station. I should have picked that up earlier - Well done, Serbian Railways!
July & August 2019
Follow me on Twitter for another epic journey on 11 August...
On 11 August I'll be setting off from London Waterloo and travelling 7,032 miles for a cup of tea. You'll be able to follow my progress on Twitter (It'll be a jolly good cup of tea...)
A new dawn for train travel in Cuba?...
This weekend (14 July) the first tranche of brand-new Chinese-built trainsets go into service on all major long-distance routes in Cuba, with air-conditioning and cafeteria. Journey times have been cut with fewer intermediate stops, and frequencies increased. More new cars will arrive in 2020 and 2021. New timetable & fares shown on the Cuba page.
Paris-Milan TGVs stopped by landslide...
Paris-Turin-Milan TGVs are cancelled until (probably) 15 August due to a mudslide near Modane blocking the line. SNCF are offering postponement or refunds. What people really want is diversion, but this means new tickets! The route to Milan via Lausanne or Basel is open. Update: Line reopened & trains are running again from 23 July.
Istanbul - Ankara sleeper train reinstated...
After a gap of some years, the Ankara Express sleeper train is reinstated between Istanbul & Ankara. It will run from Halkali through the Marmaray tunnel, best boarded at Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme station. It has TVS2000 sleeping-cars (1 & 2 bed compartments) and pullman reclining seats. See the Train travel in Turkey page.
Odds & ends this month...
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Print-your-own tickets have now been enabled for daytime journeys between Poland & Austria, in both directions. This makes it easier and cheaper, for a journey starting in Poland you no longer need to buy at the station or use an agency charging the full-price plus fee, you can now buy at cheap prices (Krakow to Vienna from €32, Warsaw to Vienna from €42), print your own ticket and off you go. I have updated the Trains from Krakow and Trains from Warsaw pages, no doubt I'll be finding other advice to that needs tweaking on other pages!
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The excellent restaurant l'Ardoise Gourmande near Paris Nord, where my son Nate first decided he loved escargots, has closed. It's well-known chef has tired of Parisian life, it seems, and returned south to open a restaurant in his home region. A great shame, I have removed it from the relevant pages.
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In Iran, the weekly Van-Tehran train has changed its days of operation, and now connects better with the train to and from Ankara. I have overhauled the Iran page to better show the whole Ankara - Tehran journey.
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There's another new timetable in Malaysia, I have updated the Singapore to Bangkok page.
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In Cambodia, the Phnom Penh to Poipet train is doubled to twice a week from mid-July.
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Following Inca Rail's lead, I'm glad to see PeruRail has extended it's Vistadome trains to start back in Cusco San Pedro station in downtown Cusco, rather than Poroy, an 8 mile bus ride away. Peru page updated.
June 2019
New train from Turkey to Tehran...
The weekly train from Van to Tabriz with an elderly couchette car introduced in June 2018 has been replaced by a weekly direct train between Van & Tehran with first class 4-berth sleeping-cars and catering. Details now shown on the Iran page. This restores direct service between Turkey & Tehran for the first time since the Trans-Asia Express was suspended in 2015.
Bangkok-Aranyaprathet trains extended to the Cambodian border...
In Thailand, the morning and afternoon local trains between Bangkok & Aranyaprathet have been extended 5km to the new station at Ban Klong Luk on the border with Cambodia, just 200m walk from the Thai border checkpoint. This saves the 100 baht tuk tuk ride from Aranyaprathet to the border post, and presumably will save tourists being driven to agency offices and overcharged for Cambodian visas! The Cambodia page has been updated.
High-speed trains start running to Granada...
After engineering work that has lasted since 2015, high-speed trains to Granada have finally started, with several daily AVE trains between Madrid & Granada, and one per day Barcelona-Granada, leaving Barcelona at 06:50 westbound and Granada at 15:35 eastbound. I have updated most of the relevant pages, including the UK to Spain by train page.
Odds & ends this month...
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Eurostar.com has now regained it's ability to book through tickets between Paris/Lille/Brussels/Amsterdam and over 100 UK towns & cities. This feature disappear a year or two ago, unless you used the workarounds I explained on the UK connections page!
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The longstanding bus between l'Hospitalet pres l'Andorre and Andorra la Vella has been discontinued. This means using a taxi, or enduring a 4 hour bus ride from Toulouse. It's a major backward step.
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The open-air viewing cars on the New Zealand KiwiRail trains had been taken out of service because so many passengers put themselves at risk trying to lean out to take selfies. A solution has been found, and the viewing car on the TranzAlpine has already been restored to service with the other trains to follow.
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I've added station guides for Geneva and Frankfurt.
May 2019
TCDD introduce the Turistik Dogu Express
From 29 May, TCDD Turkish Railways introduce the "Turistik Dogu Express" from Ankara to Erzurum & Kars 3 times a week, all-sleeping-car + restaurant car, in addition to the original daily Dogu Express, which becomes reclining seats & couchettes only. This is in response to the popularity of the original Dogu Express, which passes spectacular scenery in Eastern Turkey. After the journey was publicised in the Turkish press it became a rite of passage for young Turks, booked up almost as soon as booking opened. The new Turistik Dogu Express will include a couple of longer stops for off-train visits. Fare TL 400 (£51/€59) single occupancy, TL 250 (£32/€37) per person for two sharing. Bargain! See the Train travel in Turkey page.
Major speed-up in Greece...
From 20 May 2019 there's a massive speed-up in Greece as line upgrades kick in. Athens-Thessaloniki (2 biggest cities in Greece) is slashed from 5h20 to 4h10, indeed southbound one morning train will take 3h57. Fare €45 in 2nd or €55 in 1st class. It's just a shame that the tortuous mountain part (with the viaducts blown up by SOE in WW2) is now by-passed. Though there will still be great views of Mt Olympus from the train!
New weekly Ankara - Tbilisi - Baku train to start in August...
The new railway between Kars in Turkey and Tbilisi in Georgia was formally inaugurated in October 2017, but passenger service has not yet started. It's now been announced that a new new direct sleeper train will start running once a week between Ankara, Tbilisi & Baku from August 2019. The train will have 4-berth economy sleepers, 4-berth comfort sleepers, 1 & 2 bed sleepers with en suite toilet & shower, and a restaurant car. These cars have been built by Stadler in Switzerland and are now in Azerbaijan on test. Fares & timetable will be posted on the Caucasus page when known.
Odds & ends this month...
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In Namibia, the Desert Express tourist train has been out of action for over a year, but may return from the end of June 2019. See www.namibiareservations.com/activities/ac-details/ac-details/desert-express
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Bosnian Railways (ZFBH) have introduced online sales for the Sarajevo-Mostar route and some others. I have added this to the Sarajevo-Mostar page,
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Caledonian Sleeper have announced that their new carriages will finally go into service on the Highland sleeper from 7 July northwards and 8 July southwards. I have updated the Cal Sleeper page accordingly.
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Ukrainian Railways have enabled online booking between Kiev & Poland, so the Warsaw to Kiev Kiev Express can finally be booked online. However, in the eastbound direction it seems UZ only have an allocation of 6 berths, and you have to book from Warsaw Zachodnia as booking from Warsaw Centralna doesn't work. So still a few limitations! However, the price is only €46 compared to €57 if you book with Polrail (which uses the Polish system, of course) and you can print your own ticket, no need to collect anywhere. I have updated all the relevant booking advice.
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In Peru, Inca Rail has resumed running to Machu Picchu from Cusco's original downtown San Pedro station, whilst PeruRail still leaves from Poroy, an inconvenient 8 mile bus or taxi ride outside Cusco. The train takes an our for this section, bus or taxi 20 minutes, but after allowing for a robust margin between taxi and train at Poroy, there's hardly any real time lost taking the train all the way. Plus it's an interesting ride, where the train climbs a mountainside on switchbacks. I have updated the Train travel in Peru page to recommend Inca Rail.
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SNCF (French Railways) simplified all its fares from 10 May. There are now only three fare types on any TGV or intercité train: 2nd, 1st and business 1st. No more multiple choice between inflexible, semi-flex or full-flex. All tickets are refundable and exchangeable. Business 1st tickets are totally flexible, and can be changed without fee until 30 minutes after departure. 1st & 2nd class tickets can be changed or refunded free until 30 days before travel, then for a €5 fee until 2 days before travel, then for €15 fee until 30 minutes before departure. I have updated the Train Travel in France page.
April 2019
Belgrade-Greece train will run in summer 2019...
The Belgrade-Skopje-Thessaloniki overnight train, cancelled indefinitely in October 2018, will run from 14 June to 15 September 2019. I've updated the UK-Greece page, Trains from Athens and Trains from Belgrade pages to show this.
New Caledonian sleeper trains at last...
The all-new Caledonian Sleeper trains finally go into service on Sunday 28 April on the lowlander train between London and Edinburgh/Glasgow. I'll be on board the first run from London to Edinburgh, getting photos and information for this site!
Thailand-Cambodia rail link inaugurated...
Officials from Thailand and Cambodia have formally inaugurated the cross-border railway between Aranyaprathet in Thailand and Poipet in Cambodia. However, passenger service is only likely to start by the end of the year.
March 2019
Open air viewing cars on KiwiRail temporarily closed...
The open-air viewing cars on KiwiRails TranzAlpine, Northern Explorer and Coastal Pacific have been closed due to passengers leaning out. Not sure why this is suddenly and issue after decades, but see www.greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/tranzalpine.
Marmaray Line opens...
It's reported that suburban trains in Istanbul were due to start running on 10 March between Halkali, Sirkeci, Pendik and Gebze. If so, this makes getting to and from Halkali (for trains to Sofia/Bucharest) and Pendik (for train to Ankara and Konya) much easier.
High-speed trains to/from Ankara using Eryaman station...
High-speed YHT trains between Istanbul & Konya and Ankara are using Eryaman station 25km west of Ankara while signalising systems are replaced.
Odds & ends this month...
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In New Zealand, it was planned to restore the Picton-Christchurch Coastal Pacific to running all year round. This clearly hasn't happened, so I have updated the New Zealand page to show it as running late September to late April, i.e. New Zealand summer months only.
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In Morocco, most conventional express trains have been branded Al Atlas and tickets now come with a seat reservation automatically included in both classes. Until now, 2nd class tickets didn't guarantee a seat, as 2nd class seats were all unreserved.
February 2019
Trip to Hong Kong & China...
I made a flying trip to Hong Kong and China last week, day 1 checking out the Star Ferry (after last going on it 27 years ago) and the Kowloon-Guangzhou intercity through train, returning on the new high-speed link on an MTR Vibrant express. Day 2 riding the Hong Kong to Beijing high-speed G80 train, 1516 miles in 8h56 (plus 17 minutes late!). Day 3 riding the rails from Beijing to the Great Wall at Badaling. The first output is a complete guide to visiting the Great Wall by train, see here.
Odds & ends this month...
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Thetrainline.com are migrating to Thetrainline.com and are now charging a booking fee to non-Europeans based on the IP address you browse with. If you live outside Europe, either use a VPN to browse with a European IP address or simply use Raileurope.com instead who charge no fees to anyone. I was quite shocked at this - I couldn't understand why some overseas travellers were saying there was a fee until I used my new VPN to test it!
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Thanks to traveller Art O Cathain I'm now able to show photos of the new Eksekutif Luxury class available between Jakarta & Surabaya on the daytime and overnight Argo Bromo Anggrek.
January 2019
Engineering work affects Budapest-Belgrade...
Work on rebuilding this dead straight but incredibly slow line for 200km/h operation continues, with Russian & Chinese support. The ultimate goal is a 3½ hour journey time, so we're told. F
rom 1 February probably until December (although one optimistic report says until April, and another 'for 6 months') the normal two daytime trains and one sleeper train are reduced to one daytime train, with switches of train at Kelebia and Novi Sad. I have put warning notices on the London to Serbia & London to Bulgaria pages, and on the Trains from Budapest, Trains from Belgrade, Trains from Sofia, Trains from Vienna & Trains from Munich pages, but may not manage to get a warning on every relevant page for example Lisbon to Belgrade or Stockholm to Belgrade! Update: It now seems there will be no train or even bus between Novi Sad & Belgrade. Better divert via Zagreb-Belgrade, which is unaffected.Q&A with the Man in Seat 61 in the Daily Telegraph...
I wrote a Q&A for the travel section of the UK's Daily Telegraph, published on 11 January: www.telegraph.co.uk/.../man-in-seat-61-interview.
Interrail & Eurail passes simplified & extended for 2019...
The Interrail & Eurail pass ranges are streamlined and aligned with each other for 2019. The Interrail pass range for European residents and Eurail pass range for overseas visitors now virtually mirror each other in coverage, available pass periods, reservation requirements and even pricing.
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Overseas visitors will no longer be forced to pay for 1st class travel if they buy a global Eurail pass, all passes will now come in both 1st & 2nd class, even global ones. A very welcome step forward.
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The Eurail pass range is significantly simplified: The 2, 3 & 4 country Eurail Selectpasses are discontinued, leaving just one-country passes and global passes, as with the Interrail range. The Eurail global pass is being reduced in price to compensate for the removal of the cheaper Selectpasses and to align pricing more closely with the previously-cheaper Interrail passes for European residents, so this a real benefit.
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Another welcome move, there's a new 'Senior' category of Eurail pass saving 10% off Adult Eurail passes for anyone over 60. On the other hand, Saver passes are discontinued, these gave two people a 15% discount on adult passes but they always have to travel together. This again reduces complexity.
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The old 'after 19:00' rule for using sleeper trains with Eurail and Interrail has been replaced with a much simpler rule, see the Interrail or Eurail pages.
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Regiojet and Leo Express are now covered by Eurail.
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I've saved the best until last: UK JOINS EURAIL!! Eurostar joined the Eurail & Interrail scheme last year, accepting Eurail & Interrail passes with a €30 passholder fare with great availability. The UK has always been part of the Interrail scheme for European residents, but earth-shattering news this year is that finally after 59 years, the UK joins the Eurail scheme too! A Eurail Global pass now gives free travel for overseas visitors all over the UK as well as in the other 27 countries. There has always been great demand for this - how many visitors dropped the UK from their itineraries as it wasn't covered by their pass?
Odds & Ends this month...
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Thello has simplified and lowered its fares for the Paris-Italy sleeper train. Fares from Paris to Venice now start at just €29, and there's now a reduction on that for children too. See the Paris-Venice by Thello page.
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Ebbsfleet in fact now has a Eurostar business lounge, I have corrected that, and also added the fact that you can use the lounges with an Amex Platinum card or Eurostar Carte Blanche card, even if you don't have a business premier ticket.
News items from 2001 to 2018
For old news items from 2001 to 2018, see the news archive page...