Zurich to Innsbruck, Salzburg & Vienna by train
Every couple of hours a modern railjet train links Zurich with Innsbruck, Salzburg & Vienna via the Arlberg Railway through the beautiful Arlberg Pass. One railjet per day runs beyond Vienna to/from Budapest and another to/from Bratislava. There's also a daily conventional EuroCity train called the Transalpin between Zurich, Innsbruck & Graz, which includes an excellent 1st class panorama car. The nightjet sleeper train between Zurich and Vienna/Budapest also uses this route.
About the Arlberg Railway
& route map
What are the railjet trains like?
About the Arlberg Railway
The Arlberg Railway is the main line between Switzerland and Austria. Opened in 1884, it's one of the highest-altitude standard gauge railways in Europe, reaching 1,310 metres (4,298 feet) above sea level at its highest point, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arlberg_railway. Soon after leaving Zurich HB, the train runs along the shores of two large Swiss lakes, the Zürichsee & Walensee, both on the left hand side when heading east. The train reverses (changes direction) at Buchs, then cuts through Liechtenstein, passing non-stop through Schaan-Vaduz station, 3.5 km from the capital Vaduz and one of only 4 railway stations in Lichtenstein. The train enters Austria and reaches Feldkirch, then snakes through the lovely Arlberg Pass. The best views are generally on the right when going east, passing through the 10 km (6 mile) long Arlberg Tunnel, the highest part on the line. The tunnel transit only takes 5 minutes, after which the train descends towards Innsbruck. Beyond Innsbruck, Zurich-Vienna trains transit Germany between Kufstein & Salzburg, also without stopping. Look out for views of the Fortress Hohensalzburg on the right as you cross the Salzach river approaching Salzburg station.
Route map
Click for larger map Highlighted = Zurich-Vienna route. Green = scenic sections of line. Red = new high-speed line.
Reproduced from the excellent European Rail Map with kind permission of the European Rail Timetable people. I recommend buying the European Rail Map for your travels and a copy of the European Rail Timetable, www.europeanrailtimetable.eu with shipping worldwide.
Zurich to Innsbruck is 282 km (175 miles) by train. Zurich to Salzburg is 475 km (295 miles). Zurich to Vienna is 787 km (489 miles).
Zurich to Innsbruck & Salzburg in pictures
Swiss lakes: Soon after leaving Zurich, the railjet runs alongside the shore of the Zürichsee and then the Walensee.
Arlberg Pass: Above, we're now in Austria, with brooding skies over the Arlberg pass. The pass itself is long, narrow and curvaceous with the train snaking along the valley sides, often high above the valley floor.
Arlberg Tunnel: Between Bludenz and St Anton am Arlberg the train passes through the Arlberg Tunnel, 10.2 km (6.3 miles) long and opened in 1884. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arlberg_Railway_Tunnel.
The mountains keep on coming as the train crosses the Tirol.
River Inn: Running alongside the river Inn in the Tirol, somewhere between Landeck & Ötzal.
Mountains near Innsbruck. The train calls at Innsbruck Hbf for several minutes.
Kufstein: The train stops at Kufstein, where the castle towers above the station.
Above right, lunch is served. In first & business class on a railjet, the steward takes your order & serves lunch at your seat.
Cutting through Germany: East of Kufstein, the train takes a short cut through Germany without stopping, see the route map above. All fast Vienna-Salzburg-Innsbruck trains do this, but are still considered Austrian domestic trains even though they spend an hour on German territory! Such a train is called a Korridorzug. The train crosses back into Austria near Freilassing, just before Salzburg.
Salzburg: View of the Fortress Hohensalzburg on the right hand side as the railjet crosses the River Salzach into Salzburg Hbf heading east.
Video guide: Through the Arlberg
This video shows all three classes on railjet and the wonderful scenery through the Arlberg Pass between Zurich and Innsbruck, en route to Salzburg & Vienna. Since the video was made, Premium class has been renamed Business class and the bistro area has been replaced with proper restaurant tables.
What are railjet trains like?
Railjets are Austrian Railways (ÖBB's) high-speed train, capable of 230 km/h (143 mph) where the route allows. Railjets have 3 classes, economy, first class & business class (in that order), with power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Business class is a premium first class, called Premium until 2012. The train is all non-smoking. Wheelchair-accessible toilets and several wheelchair spaces are available in each train.
Railjet in Zurich. A railjet about to leave Zurich HB for Innsbruck, Salzburg & Vienna. railjets are fixed-formation 'push-pull' trains, with a locomotive at one end & a driving cab (shown here) at the other.
Railjet in Vienna. A railjet at the modern Vienna Hbf.
Economy (2nd class)
Open-plan seating arranged 2+2 across the car width, most unidirectional but with some tables for 4. All seats have power sockets and a fixed or drop-down table. Large luggage racks are located at various points within the seating area, see the photo of the luggage rack in 1st class below, it's the same in all classes. See seat map. Click the photos for larger images.
First class
1st class has reclining leather seats arranged 2+1 across the car width, with tables for 2, tables for 4 people and some unidirectional seats. There are power sockets & tables at all seats. Food & drink orders are taken from the restaurant menu & served at your seat, although meals aren't included in the fare. See panorama photo. See seat map. Click the photos for larger images.
Business class (premium 1st)
An extra €15 on top of any 1st class fare gets you a business class seat, which automatically includes a reservation. The railjets used on this route have 14 business class seats in half of one car: A carpeted corridor runs down one side of the car, off which open several spacious 3 or 4 seat semi-compartments, semi because the compartments have no door and partitions are not ceiling-high. Each semi-compartment has very comfortable reclining leather armchairs with adjustable footrests & fold-out armrest table. There are power sockets & reading lights at all seats. A complimentary welcome drink of wine or fruit juice is included. Food & drink orders are taken from the restaurant menu and served at your seat, although meals aren't included in the fare. If you don't mind the extra cost, business class is highly recommended. Note that only certain booking sites can book business class (for example www.thetrainline.com & www.oebb.at where you select a 1st class fare then choose a business class reservation), but if you have a first class ticket you can find any empty seat and ask to pay the €15 supplement on board. See panorama photo. See seat map. Click the photos for larger images.
Business class: Side corridor with 14 seats in two 3-seat & two 4-seat semi-compartments, plus two solo seats at the end. See seat map.
Restaurant car
Anyone in any class can buy food & drink at the counter to take back to their seat or you can sit down and use the small waiter-service restaurant area. However, in 1st & Business classes there's no need to go to the restaurant car, staff will take your order and serve you from the restaurant menu at your seat. Food is served on proper china with metal cutlery - no airline plastic here!
Travel tips
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Pick a train that passes the scenery in daylight!
When choosing a train, make sure it'll pass through the Arlberg Pass during daylight hours - although sunrise and sunset might make for spectacular photos. You can look up sunrise and sunset times for any day of the year in Zurich or Innsbruck at www.timeanddate.com.
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Economy, first or business class?
Economy is absolutely fine. However, first class has wider seats and more legroom if you don't mind paying extra, and as fares are dynamic it might not cost that much more. Look at the photos above, what you see is what you get, but for me first class has two key benefits: First, you don't need to leave your seat and luggage to go to the restaurant car, in first and business class stewards take your order and serve you at your seat. Second, if travelling alone there are 'solo' seats on one side of the aisle in first class for privacy if you'd rather not sit next to someone else. Business class is a real treat, if you can afford the first class fare plus €15, go for it.
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Seat reservations
Seat reservations are optional on railjets, there's a €3 fee for a reserved seat if you want one, otherwise you just find any empty unreserved seat. That means you can always buy a standard price ticket and get on the next train, railjet trains can never sell out. However, I recommend making a seat reservation for any long journey, especially in summer.
For a railjet seat map, see the seat maps page.
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1st class panorama car on the Transalpin
The 08:40 Transalpin from Zurich to Innsbruck & Graz and westbound 15:48 Transalpin from Innsbruck to Zurich is not a railjet, it's an older EuroCity train. It includes a wonderful Swiss Railways 1st class panorama car which you can use with any 1st class ticket or pass without any extra charge, but a seat reservation is recommended. How to make a seat reservation in the panorama car.
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Boarding the train
As with most European trains, there's no check-in, you just walk into the station, look at the departure screens to find your train, walk to that platform and get on, any time before the doors close and it leaves. At Swiss and Austrian stations there are no barriers or ticket gates, just free and easy open access from street to platform to train.
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Which side of the train to sit?
Eastbound, find a seat on the left hand side of the train leaving Zurich, you'll then be on the side with the lakes. The train changes direction at Buchs so you'll then be on the right hand side for the best views of the valley through most of the Arlberg Pass.
Westbound from Vienna, Salzburg or Innsbruck, find a seat on the left hand side of the train.
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Luggage
You take your bags with you and put them on any suitable luggage rack near your seat. If you can carry it you can take it, as within reason there are no baggage limits, nobody weighs or measures your bags. Anything up to backpack size fits on the overhead rack directly above your seat, larger items fit on the luggage stacks arranged at intervals inside the seating areas.
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Quiet zone (Ruhezone)
Some railjet seating in economy and first class is designated Ruhezone - quiet zone. No mobile phones, no noisy kids. The areas are marked on the car sides, and by distinctive green headrests marked Ruhezone, Quiet zone.
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Family zone (Familienzone)
The end car at the economy end of a railjet train is specially designated for parents with young children. In this car there's a small area where kids can watch a screen with cartoons, and there are game boards marked on the tables. Seats in the family area have blue headrests marked Familienzone.
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Bikes & dogs
Bikes are now carried on railjet trains, with 5 spaces now available per train, reservation required, see the bikes by train page. You can take a dog or pet on a railjet, see the dogs by train page.
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Power sockets & WiFi
Railjets have sockets at all seats or pairs of seats in all classes. There are also sockets on the Transalpin. Railjets have free WiFi in all classes. It works in Austria and in neighbouring countries too. There's no WiFi on the Transalpin.
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First class lounges at stations
If you have a first class international ticket you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf, the ÖBB lounges at Salzburg Hbf & Innsbruck Hbf, and the MAV business lounge at Budapest Keleti. There is no longer any lounge in Zurich, but see the Zurich HB station guide for advice on bars & restaurants in or near the station.
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Order food & drink & check the train's progress on your phone!
In first & business class the restaurant car steward takes your orders for food & drink and serves them at your seat. But you can short-circuit this process by logging onto the railjet's free WiFi, the ÖBB portal opens up (railnet.oebb.at) with an option to order food for delivery to your seat. You order from the online menu, enter your car & seat number, and hey presto, the steward shows up shortly afterwards with your order. You pay him when he arrives. Works well, unless he is rushed off his feet and misses the online order!
The intranet also allows you to keep track of the train's speed and whereabouts on your phone, and check arrival times.
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Station guides: Zurich HB, Innsbruck Hbf, Salzburg Hbf, Vienna Hbf.
Fares & how to buy tickets
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Zurich to Innsbruck starts at €19.90, Zurich to Salzburg or Vienna at €29.90.
These are advance-purchase Sparschiene fares, specified train only, limited or no changes or refunds. The price varies like air fares.
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Buy tickets at www.thetrainline.com (easiest to use, in €, Ł or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or Austrian Railways' own site www.oebb.at (in €, same fares). You print your own ticket.
Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, but can be significantly less than this for dates after the mid-December timetable change.
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There are two types of fare:
Standardpreis = expensive full-flex fare, good for any train, fixed price, unlimited availability, refundable, changeable, cannot sell out.
Sparschiene = cheap advance-purchase tickets only valid for the specific train you book, the price varies with limited availability at each price level, limited or no refunds, no changes to travel plans allowed, book well in advance and avoid busy days or dates for the cheapest rates.
Tip: You can buy through tickets from any station in Austria to any station in Switzerland (or vice versa). A through ticket is usually cheaper than buying a separate Swiss domestic ticket between Zurich & your final Swiss destination.
1st class panorama car on the Transalpin
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Most daytime trains between Zurich & Innsbruck are modern railjets heading to/from Salzburg & Vienna, with one exception: The Zurich-Innsbruck-Graz EuroCity (EC) train Transalpin, leaving Zurich at 08:40 eastbound and Innsbruck at 15:48 westbound, every day. This uses comfortable ÖBB (Austrian Railways) coaches like the Munich-Venice ones shown here, an Austrian restaurant car and a special Swiss Railways (SBB) 1st class panorama car.
The Transalpin's panorama car is a real treat, you can use it with any type of 1st class ticket or 1st class Interrail/Eurail pass, but make sure you reserve a seat to avoid disappointment, and make sure the seat you book is in the panorama car, not in the adjacent regular 1st class car. In the panorama car, luggage goes in the space between the seat backs.
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How to check the train formation: The panorama car is car 309 in both directions, you can check the train formation & car numbers at www.vagonweb.cz. Change cs to English at upper left, then click Train formations, then search for Transalpin.
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How to reserve a seat: If you have a 1st class ticket or Interrail/Eurail pass, you can make a seat-reservation-only booking at www.oebb.at for just €3 per seat: Simply tick the Seat reservation only box before running the enquiry. Select first class, click reservation details and change Open plan coach 1st class car to Panorama car 1st class. www.oebb.at should show car & seat numbers before you pay, make sure it's 309. You print out your own reservation.
